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14th century Seamstress or Tailor Suggestions Needed

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 4:33 pm
by istout
Hello I am looking to outfit from head to toe my wife, daughter and infant son with a research based 14th century ensemble. Yes I know that I can buy patterns and I do have the ability to construct these garments but with my travel schedual for work I don’t have the time heck I barely get to see my family with as much as I travel.
In my current searches I have been looking at web sites and either the company is overseas or honestly I really don’t see anything that looks right to me. So at this time I am looking for a seamstress or tailor here in the USA who sews either all machine or half machine with finishing stitching being done by hand and who I can discuss options with.
Any help, recommendations, links or suggestions would be most appreciated.
Thanks!

Re: 14th century Seamstress or Tailor Suggestions Needed

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 6:24 pm
by bigfredb

Re: 14th century Seamstress or Tailor Suggestions Needed

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 7:29 pm
by istout
BigFred thanks for your reply! I have looked at HE and I really like their stuff but for the wife we were looking for a kirtle and super tunic with sleeve tipets and for the kiddo she is 10 and a tad bigger then the size listed in HE childrens offerings... As for stockings etc. HE was one of the vendors I was looking at. Thanks again for the reply!

Re: 14th century Seamstress or Tailor Suggestions Needed

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 7:49 pm
by Charlotte J
It would help to know where you're located, when you need them by, and what price range you're looking at.

Re: 14th century Seamstress or Tailor Suggestions Needed

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 8:39 pm
by istout
Charlotte,
Hey thanks for the reply.. We are in Buffalo/Niagara area of upstate NY.. Looking at spending a few hundred for the wife and not quite as much for my 10yr old and the infant.. As for time we really dont have anything planned and are getting this together for event time when the weather gets nice again.. Thanks again!

Re: 14th century Seamstress or Tailor Suggestions Needed

Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 12:08 am
by bigfredb
Ian,

Give the folks at HE a call. They are nice folks.

Also, you still may want to DIY. Give the folks at Resurrecting History a call. Their patterns are really good, and they are more than willing to 'talk you off the ledge' of frustration.

Re: 14th century Seamstress or Tailor Suggestions Needed

Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 1:59 am
by Keegan Ingrassia
Or even Reconstructing History. ;)
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/

Re: 14th century Seamstress or Tailor Suggestions Needed

Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 10:07 am
by Tailoress
Hi Ian,

For custom work, you're looking at more than a couple hundred for two full dresses for your wife, just cautioning you. Whatever you see price-wise for off-the-rack, you can add at least $50-100 or more to that for the custom fitting and handwork involved. If the dresses have closures that require eyelets or buttons, the price goes up even more, because those are labor- and time-intensive.

Have you tried putting this query on your local SCA email list? I really think the best luck you'll have is with someone local who can take the measurements and do fittings easily in person. Another option would be to hire a non-SCA seamstress and provide patterns.

I know this must seem frustrating... So many of us end up learning to sew because nothing quite fits our bill unless we do it ourselves. Also, an experienced and quality seamster/seamstress won't be cheap. Another reason to DIY.

Re: 14th century Seamstress or Tailor Suggestions Needed

Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 10:19 am
by hivemind
Try talking to Kevat over at BadAss Garb. She's an extremely versatile professional. Look for her on Facebook, that's the easiest way.

Re: 14th century Seamstress or Tailor Suggestions Needed

Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 11:02 am
by istout
Hey everyone thank you so much for your replies!
I will be checking out Bad Ass Garb on FB ASAP!
Right now I am looking to buy my wife and kids first outfits outright but I think for the future I am going to take everyone’s advice and pick up the Reconstructing History (even though I liked the " Resurrecting History" name better :D ) patterns and over time sew some outfits for them so they have changes of clothing.. If I can sew well fitted 18th century breeches I guess I should be able pull off these patterns with a propper 14th century fit or atleast I hope I can... :D
Any suggestions on baby patterns and were to get them as I have been unable to find anything online or in the books I have?
Tailoress as of right now we are so new to SCA I can count how many fight parctices I have been too on two hands so we really dont know very many folks outside of fighters but I will ask around tonight at practice and see what folks say...
Also I have been looking at your web site quite a bit and the tutorial for two methods of fitting the woman’s gown were great! I really appreciate all the information you provide on your site and on a side note I will be picking up your CDB pourpoint pattern for myself and give it a try with some hand sewing very soon... I can see that being a hotel room project on trips!
Thanks again everyone all of your time and advice are most appreciated!

Re: 14th century Seamstress or Tailor Suggestions Needed

Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 12:55 pm
by Karen Larsdatter
istout wrote:Any suggestions on baby patterns and were to get them as I have been unable to find anything online or in the books I have?

Keep it simple. (Do you have The Medieval Tailor's Assistant?) Your baby will do fine in a white linen shirt with a wide neckhole; see http://larsdatter.com/children.htm for some examples of children's clothing from the Middle Ages. My favorite example of a baby's shirt on there is this 15th century example, which is both eminently practical for a fast-growing child as well as having a wide neck that makes it easier to put on and take off.

Re: 14th century Seamstress or Tailor Suggestions Needed

Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 1:08 pm
by Smashedfrog
For the kids, I got some great advice earlier when I asked a similar question:
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=141535

Re: 14th century Seamstress or Tailor Suggestions Needed

Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 1:51 pm
by istout
Karen Larsdatter wrote:
istout wrote:Any suggestions on baby patterns and were to get them as I have been unable to find anything online or in the books I have?

Keep it simple. (Do you have The Medieval Tailor's Assistant?) Your baby will do fine in a white linen shirt with a wide neckhole; see http://larsdatter.com/children.htm for some examples of children's clothing from the Middle Ages. My favorite example of a baby's shirt on there is this 15th century example, which is both eminently practical for a fast-growing child as well as having a wide neck that makes it easier to put on and take off.


Karen thanks for the reply as well as for the GREAT web site! To funy I ordered that book yesterday and it should be here next week I hope.. As you suggested I was already planning to keep it simple with just a shirt, tunic of some sort and a head covering.. My issues was trying to find a pattern as I have never drafted a pattern before..
Smashedfrog thank you as well I have reread that thread and have looked at Charlottes’ web site as well and may try my hand at drafting a G61 gown if I cant find a pre made pattern....

Another question in the book "The Peel Affinity" done by La Belle Compagnie the looser knee length or longer gowns the men are wearing are those G63 gowns? If not what are they and does anyone sell a pattern as I would like a loose fitting longer type gown to wear when not in a coteharde... Thanks again for everything!

Re: 14th century Seamstress or Tailor Suggestions Needed

Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 4:52 pm
by Tailoress
istout wrote: Also I have been looking at your web site quite a bit and the tutorial for two methods of fitting the woman’s gown were great! I really appreciate all the information you provide on your site and on a side note I will be picking up your CDB pourpoint pattern for myself and give it a try with some hand sewing very soon... I can see that being a hotel room project on trips!


Thanks for the kind words. :) Glad it's been helpful so far. Hope you enjoy the pattern! It can be as complicated or as easy/fast as you want it to be; that's the beauty of it. ;)

As for your La Belle Compagnie question, I'm fairly sure at least some of their looser, longer cottes are G63s; I know several of them own them and wear them. I just don't have the book handy at this moment to look at specific pictures and say, "Yes, that one is a G63." I know that some make their own and others have bought from Historical Enterprises and made a few alterations to make it pass their living history-level vetting requirements (like replacing the wooden beads with cast buttons, that sort of thing).

I was in Copenhagen for a day this summer and got to see the G63 and a recreation of it in person. At least, I *think* that's one of the few Greenland garments that was on display. I was so very tired that day -- jetlag catching up with me -- that I don't trust my memory now. I'll have to go home and check my photos! If they're any good, I'll post them. Kinda forgot about doing that before... :)

-Tasha

Re: 14th century Seamstress or Tailor Suggestions Needed

Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 5:13 pm
by istout
Thanks for the reply and the G63 info!Curious would fabric covered buttons be correct on G63 in liue of cast? Look fwd. to seeing the pics! Thanks again!

Re: 14th century Seamstress or Tailor Suggestions Needed

Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 9:57 pm
by Charlotte J
istout wrote:Thanks for the reply and the G63 info!Curious would fabric covered buttons be correct on G63 in liue of cast? Look fwd. to seeing the pics! Thanks again!


Yep.

And yes, in La Belle many of the men are wearing G-63 style gowns. Some of the men are probably wearing them on their own, but others are wearing them as a gown layer over a more fitted doublet layer.

They're not too hard to do on your own if you have a sense for sewing. There is a diagram here:

http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-ca ... jol63.html

If you think of each body piece as a trapezoid before the arm section was cut out, they're intuitive to lay out on fabric. Also, they're so loose, that there's a lot of forgiveness in almost every aspect.

Reason I asked your location was because I was getting at what Tailoress suggested. Also, if you do sew, it's very likely that somebody local to you will be able to help you pattern, fit, draft, layout, etc. For example, I occasionally have sewing days where I help people do all of that - I provide instruction, they just have to DO it. That sort of arrangement is fairly common in the SCA. If you are interested in the DIY approach, I do also have a series of articles on taking it from fit to final garment, every step of the way. Let me know if you need a pointer.

Re: 14th century Seamstress or Tailor Suggestions Needed

Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:32 am
by istout
Charlotte J,
Thanks for the information and clarification on the G63 as well as for having a great site!
This time period is all so new for me and I have been researching my ass off but it’s a bit overwhelming at times BUT what makes it nice as well as managable is that there are so many knowledgeable people out there who share their research and expearence so freely which is another thing that I really like about this web site everyone is so willing to help! Thanks again everyone… :D

Re: 14th century Seamstress or Tailor Suggestions Needed

Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 1:51 pm
by Konstantin the Red
One thing you will want is several changes of shirt apiece. The shirt in those times served the function of today's undershirt, and they are easy to buy too.

Generally simply made, these garments are also good initial DIY's to gain experience.

Re: 14th century Seamstress or Tailor Suggestions Needed

Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 6:43 pm
by istout
Konstantin the Red wrote:One thing you will want is several changes of shirt apiece. The shirt in those times served the function of today's undershirt, and they are easy to buy too.

Generally simply made, these garments are also good initial DIY's to gain experience.

Good sound advice Konstantin I had anticipated everyone in the family have a few sets of underclothes to include hose as well.. Thanks again everyone!

Re: 14th century Seamstress or Tailor Suggestions Needed

Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 4:00 am
by Black Swan Designs
FYI, we offer bespoke versions of most of our higher end garments at little or no additional cost. Made to measure, custom fabrics, short sleeves, tippets, fitchets, etc., whatever the customer wants. Hand finishing available as well, but as someone else mentioned it does come at a price. We also will provide the basic garment for the client to hand finish, including matching fabric for buttons and whatnot.

As noted, I have done a number of garments for LaBelle members, altering fit and finish to meet their requirements. I've done the same for any number of other living history groups and historic sites around the world, when off the peg won't do.

If you decide you're not up to starting from scratch or can't find what you want, please feel free to drop me a line- gwen [at] historicenterprises.com, 760-789-2299 (Pacific time). I've been in business for 14 years at the same phone number, and can provide current references.

Gwen