The Armour Archive

I purchased some Shetland wool and I was wondering if I should prewash and or preshrink it before I cut and sew?
I have 3 yards of a plain weave auburn and 2 yards of a herringbone weave camel/light tan that I plan to over dye with a golden yellow.
Would any of the people more experienced in these matters care to give some advice?

Don't wash it! If you want to see if it is "machine washable" cut off a measured section, abou 6 inch square, wash that and measure to see how much it shrank. I only do this with cloaks and such, or items that i want slightly felted, though ot really only works with heavier wools. lightweight stuff never gets washed. Realistically, you don't ever need to launder it. I brush off and air out my woollies after each event, and maybe dry clean them every couple of years. If even.

If you are really worried about shrinkage through wear, dampen a bed sheet and place the wool on it flat. Roll it up and let it dry. It should take overnight. That should "set" the fibers, and shrink it minimally. I do this with anything that is going to be close fitting or tailored.

In general, I don't recommend pretreating wools, as there are so many ways to ruin the surface, cause pilling, or just destroying it. For Viking or other loose clothing, I find its easier to not worry about it.

Sir Roland Ansbacher, OL

That actually sounds like more knowledgeable advice than I can give--but I always pre-wash my wool! Cold wash and rinse on the gentle cycle, and hang dry. Iron like heck before cutting.

Some of my garments have never been washed, others that get particularly ooky I just squish into a bucket of cool soapy water, neglect them for a couple hours, then rinse out and hang dry. Never had pilling or other problems, that I know of.

Mind you, this is all for modern commercial wools! I rarely get the chance to play with anything hand-woven, etc., and I would be very leery about letting anything like that near a washing machine.

"Go not to the Elves for advice, for they will say both Yes and No." Reenactors will throw in a "Maybe", ha!

Matthew

Thanks for the advice. I think I will avoid washing. Does anyone have anything to share concerning a dye bath for the herringbone wool? I'm sure a bit of shrinkage will be unavoidable but it shouldn't felt up unless I agitate it too much right? I dyed two wool blankets in a washing machine and they felted up like crazy so I will avoid that method and maybe try a good soaking in an aluminum tub.

It may be a good idea to do a small sample.
Dyes may not set as easily if there is sizing or what have you.
Often they can simply be rinsed out with cold water and no agitation.
You may be able to get equipment and chemicals from the local spinners and weavers.

Aluminum may react with the dyes and other chemicals.
It speeds up developing color if your processing woad for dye quite a bit.

Samples are your friend. I wash almost all of my wools. I actually like to do 2 samples - the first I just wash, and the second I wash and dry. Even if I dry it with pre-treating, I never dry it once I've made it up.

I like to wash my wool garments if they need it. Sure, you can get a long way just brushing them out, and I don't wash them as much as my body linens. But I have kids, and if they eat in their wool and get food grime on themselves, I want to wash that before the moths get to it.

I'm with Charlotte. I pre-wash nearly every piece of wool that comes into my possession. I've only once had someone further shrink a garment I'd made him of wool, and he put into a full machine set on hot, then a full dryer set on hot, and it got fulled within an inch of it's life.

Back from Gulf Wars, I'll take our (pre-washed) wool garments and run them through a cold wash and hang them to dry or lay them flat to dry and don't worry in the least about them. Some of mine are 12-15 years old.

If you're wary, wash some samples to see what happens, and make your decision from there, but I would bet other than just a little minor shrinkage, you're fine.

If you are dyeing you want to wash oils out of the fabric that might prevent the dye from penetrating. Even fingerprints can leave smudges. Washing can consist of soaking in cold soapy water, agitating lightly, then rinsing cold a couple of times. Spin as much water out as you can then air dry.

T.

Charlotte and azure, you both pre-wash at what temp?

I usually prewash on hot. That way, I've treated it the worst it'll ever be treated in its life. If I prewash on cool and then accidentally wash on hot later, it's toast.

The caveat is that if you're worried about the finish or texture, to test swatches in different wash temps and dry methods. Generally, I like to get the shiny modern finish off, but occasionally there's something I don't want to beat up.

Charlotte J wrote: But I have kids, and if they eat in their wool and get food grime on themselves, I want to wash that before the moths get to it.

Charlotte,

You need not worry that either the clothes moths or the carpet beetles will be enticed by the food spills on your kid's clothes. I assure you that they are only interested in the wool. I can not, of course, vouch for the mice.

Robert MacPherson
Entomology BS, Cornell U. 1981

I was under the impression that grease spots were more attractive to the moths, but I guess not!

In any case, storing clothes without food on them is a goal.

Thank you Charlotte, that's what I remembered from your excellent tutorial series.

Unwashed wool can be quite nasty to spin! (and it can be washed in the lock for combing!)

All my wife's shetland wool came as fleeces...

Mac wrote:

Charlotte J wrote: But I have kids, and if they eat in their wool and get food grime on themselves, I want to wash that before the moths get to it.

Charlotte,

You need not worry that either the clothes moths or the carpet beetles will be enticed by the food spills on your kid's clothes. I assure you that they are only interested in the wool. I can not, of course, vouch for the mice.

Robert MacPherson
Entomology BS, Cornell U. 1981

Glad to see you using your degree. Makes me wonder who nibbled on my wool pants!

I had chalked it to moths since we had a moth problem for a time at the house. Guess it could have been a rodent at an event as there was the remnant of a stain on the remaining edges of the hole when I found it.

Learn something new every day.

I always prewash wool before sewing with it, and after I weave wool, I include machine washing on gentle cycle as part of the finishing process.

Different breeds of sheep and other wool or hair producing animals will produce wools or other protein based fibers that felt or full at different rates and in different ways. It's unrealistic to think you can make woolen garments for use in the SCA and not wash them--they will get dirty, just like everything else that you take camping does. Prewash. Full it on purpose, and then treat it gently but keep it clean.

Wool moths, carpet beetles, and most other things that eat wool are much much more likely to go after dirty wool than clean wool. Felting and fulling are about more than just water + wool. Water + Ph change (soap or detergent) + agitation + change in temperature are the real secrets to felting and fulling. Fulled wool is warmer, more water resistant, more wind resistant, and thicker.

Wash it gently, hang it to dry, cut your garments a bit loose so you can wear them if they full further after they're worn and washed again. If you really want to take care of a handmade wool garment, use a no-rinse wool wash like Soak or Kookaburra rather than a detergent like Woolite.

I gotta ask, I've seen the word "agitate" in reference to washing wool fabric before sewing or what have you. What exactly does that mean? To agitate the wool?

ag•i•tate (ˈædʒ ɪˌteɪt)

v. -tat•ed, -tat•ing. v.t.
1. to move or force into violent, irregular action.
2. to shake or move briskly.
3. to disturb or excite emotionally; perturb.
4. to call attention to by speech or writing; discuss; debate.

In this case referring to examples 1 and 2.

Thanks Engenulf. lol