Chausses Questions for Costume Mavens

[Blaine de Navarre]

Some of the illustrations from the 12th-13th c. seem to show chausses worn without other footwear. I am guessing these chausses must have had a leather sole with turn-shoe construction. Anyone know of any other documentation for this?

Also, any evidence that such "all-in-one" chausses were ever made all of leather?

If I wanted to make a pair to conceal some leg armor for SCA fighting, what modern wool fabric should I be looking for? I'm imagining something like the heavy, scratchy, wool used for modern (or recent) mlitary trousers; would this be a reasonable approximation of period wool fabric?

[Karen Larsdatter]

Also, any evidence that such "all-in-one" chausses were ever made all of leather?

In some cases, you might be looking at hip-high riding boots, which may have attached via points much like chausses. Some examples can be found in Gaston Phebus' Book of the Hunt, including fols. 54, 57v, and 70. Presumably, they're wearing some sort of hose underneath. You might like to see Thigh High Fold-Over Boot for a speculative construction, or these articles on boots.

There is some thought that some "footed hose" were made with a leather sole, so that they would not need to be worn with shoes, and that this is where the whole look with the chausses being worn without footwear comes from. I would suspect that such things could be made more like chausses or hose but with a leather sole, rather than as a turnshoe construction. If you'd like more suggestions on making chausses or hose, see the links at http://moas.atlantia.sca.org/wsnlinks/i ... &catid=292

[Egfroth]

The problem with Gaston Phoebus is that it's late 14th century. For the 12th and 13th I know of no leather leg-coverings. Boots don't seem to have got higher than the ankle.

Yes, the scratchy military weight wool would be the right kind. However, you might find that even this is a bit too fragile for combat when you have armour underneath.

The best SCA representation I've seen for this general period is by Greenshield. See http://forums.armourarchive.org/phpBB2/ ... hp?t=43866 . However, he wears fairly loose trousers plus leg-wraps.

As hose are usually shown pretty tight to the leg, you'd be best thinking out your combination of armour and hose carefully, so they all work well together without being too obvious - or tearing too easily. I'm sure it can be done - in fact it's a project of my own to do so.

I currently fight without knee protection - at least at public displays - because it would spoil the line of the hose, but I intend to work up a hose/knee-guard combo that looks good yet protects the knees. (BTW, I'm not in the SCA, in case you were wondering how I can fight without knee-guards)

[Blackoak]

FYI, Sir Camric (Greenshield) uses linen for his fighting pants, not wool. They are not form fitting, as they need to have hockey knees under them.

Uric

[Tailoress]

The problem with Gaston Phoebus is that it's late 14th century. For the 12th and 13th I know of no leather leg-coverings. Boots don't seem to have got higher than the ankle.

Actually the most popular version of the extant selection of illuminated manuscripts for this work is early 15th century, even later than the time period Blaine is looking into. There's been a recent publication with good pictures but there's also the old standby: Illuminated Manuscripts: Medieval Hunting Scenes by Gabriel Bise, if anyone's interested.

There is some thought that some "footed hose" were made with a leather sole, so that they would not need to be worn with shoes, and that this is where the whole look with the chausses being worn without footwear comes from. I would suspect that such things could be made more like chausses or hose but with a leather sole, rather than as a turnshoe construction.

There's an interesting reference in Dress in Medieaval France by Joan Evans to the King of France owning 131 pairs of chausses semellées in 1396 (which are interpreted by Evans as "tights fitted with soles") in colors such as white, black, and red. He also had leather houseaulx to wear over the chausses when riding. Presumably, these were the thigh-high boots similar to those seen in illuminations of hunting scenes as referenced above.

This is all quite interesting IMO, but probably not helpful to Blaine.

-Tasha

[Blaine de Navarre]

This is all quite interesting IMO, but probably not helpful to Blaine.

Actually, I'm enjoying the discussion, even if not every detail is germane to my particular project. Bear in mind I am trying to upgrade my kit from "old school SCA" sweats and engineer boots, so just about any information is helpful.

I was pretty sure before I asked that the answer on leather legwear that early would be no, I was just fishing. I was also not expecting a definitive answer on the leather soles, since that would really require a surviving garment, which I know doesn't exist; I was really wondering if others agreed with my inference.

The biggest issue I am really worried about is the one Egfroth brought up about the fit. If I make the chausses too snug, all the concealed armor will telegraph through, and they'll look stupid. If I make the too baggy they won't look like chausses. I'll just have to play with this and see if I can find a happy medium. If I can't make it work, I'll probably end up going with the trousers and leg-wraps, although this would be an earlier look than what I really want.

Thanks everyone for the responses!