The Armour Archive

I am about to tackle a new 15th century harness, circa 1410ish.

Not the expert in arming clothing (aint my cup of tea even though I can and do sew) and with precious few historical examples to go on for the period in terms of revealing pictures showing padded arming coats (after removal -or- prior to donning the cuirass), I thought Id solicit what you all have made or come up with.


Some things Ive been pondering:

I think one of the issues that plagues me is whether to incorporate a barrel chested approach or suggestive Debois 'cut' that might be taking an early 15th century arming coat back too many decades.

On the other hand, Im fascinated by the arm hole cut that seems to allow for such great movement.

I believe recalling historical quotes of arming coates being so tight that knights felt as if their skin were being flayed when they took them off....which is logical so as not to be too lose and/or contain excessive material.

Fasteners: Should I go with buttons, buckles, or ties? I dread the concept of buttons, but then again it seems a bit more period than buckles, which seem a bit too far ahead in the century.

So Id like to see what you all have made, and any thoughts on movement/restrictions, the cut/shape, fasteners and anything youd like to add. Thanks.

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EDIT to bring up this coat:

Jason I hope you dont mind my borrowing this from ya
[img]http://www.grimmarmoury.com/armour/Doublet.jpg[/img]

I mentioned this in another thread, but will do so again.

What is the real evidence for that arming coat having been updated to a later period version....I believe it was once assigned circa 1400 and then bumped up to 1600 or something like that.



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Durasteel Corporation wrote:I think one of the issues that plagues me is whether to incorporate a barrel chested approach or suggestive Debois 'cut' that might be taking an early 15th century arming coat back too many decades.

The deBois 'cut' you're referring to, what I would call the grande assiette, has more visual evidence in the art of the early 15thc than any other time, far as I can tell. So, no worries there. The globose-chested thing -- I just don't know. I personally think arming cottes should be low-profile and not that padded, but everyone has their opinion.

One thing I will say about it is that the sleeve style you choose WILL date you, so don't automatically use the same two-part sleeve you see on the CdB garment. There's another very common sleeve style for the turn of the 15thc that is a variation on that two-part sleeve, and it involves the upper sleeve gathering into the lower sleeve, below the elbow. If I had to choose an arming cotte sleeve style for 1410, that's what I'd go for.

-Tasha

Thank you Tasha for your insight!

I also agree that the arming coat under a plate harness does not need to be padded greatly---if any existed some padding may be a latent result from less-hard armours earlier in the century I would imagine. I recall back in the early 90s, Bob Charette of the prestigous La belle Compagnie wore an arming coate with a full mail shirt including 3/4 sleeves, and then the full cuirass---whether he has modified that layering process I dont know. The question is...when did voiders come into play because that kicks off a whole new series of questions.

You spoke of differing sleeves that are very 'dating.' Can you post some pictures to elaborate on what you were referring to. Much obliged Tasha!