The Armour Archive

Hi all,

I thought I would share a project that has kept me busy for about 100 hours over the last few weeks (yikes). I had a customer who purchased an arming doublet from Revival - sans any visible machine stitching.

With some helpful hints from my buddy, Tasha, we fit the garment. Once fitted, I made some alterations (so it would fit him quite close) - all sewn by hand. Quilting came next. The quilting pattern was based on the quilting evident on the CdB extant garment, per the Janet Arnold article (thanks again to Tasha for sending that along to me). After the quilting, some eyelets and voila.

My customer should be at an event this weekend and he's promised to send along some pics. I'll try to post them here when I get them.

In the meantime, enjoy!

http://www.argentneedle.com/images/doublet/


Muriel

Looks incredible, cann't wait to see pictures of it being worn.

brian

that is outstanding... Any site with the pattern? And would this be appropriate for someone in Germany circa 1370-90 or so instead of a gambeson with holes to point the amor?

Sieghart

When you ask if there is any site for the pattern?? Do you mean is it documentable?? Yes. In 1991, Janet Arnold wrote an article titled "The Jupon or Coat-Armour of the Black Prince in Canterbury Cathedral". I believe it's on page 19, where she shows a drawing of the quilting pattern that is on the Charles de Bois pourpoint. (Thanks again to Tasha for providing it to me). This pourpoint has been given a date of 1363.

There are other quilting patterns that can be seen in illuminations (Lancelot du Lac - all horizontal). In the Moyen Age magazine (Mar/April 2003 issue) - there is an article on the CdB pourpoint. On pg. 37 - there is a painting showing a padded garment, where the body is quite clearly quilted in the same pattern as the CdB. The sleeves have the quilting on the grande assiettes continuing all the way down the sleeve (no directional quilting difference at the elbow). This pic is dated to approx 1361.

Is this what you meant?

Re: German?? I honestly don't know. I'm just not that familiar with German effigies or drawings/illuminations. Most of my collection revolves around French and English. sorry.

I don't think he was asking for a cite on the authenticity, but a site where he could get the pattern for himself.

Oh - OK!

I didn't use a website for the pattern of the quilting. Just the research. Drawing the pattern onto the garment was done using the existing seams and either a 1 or 2 finger width (approx. 3/4 inch or 1 1/2 inch) between each seam line.

The garment itself was pre-made by Revival (sans any visible machine stitching).

Is that a better explanation??

Very nice. I am assuming that it laces in a zig-zag,ladder pattern up the front. Man I wish someone would do a Dummies for the GA sleeve. I have the most trouble figuring it out, even after looking Tasha's site it still confuses me. Thanks for the pics.

Oh, Muriel, that came out so beautifully!

iaenmor wrote:Very nice. I am assuming that it laces in a zig-zag,ladder pattern up the front. Man I wish someone would do a Dummies for the GA sleeve. I have the most trouble figuring it out, even after looking Tasha's site it still confuses me. Thanks for the pics.

I don't really explain how the G.A. works on that one article of mine -- it's about the G.A. in general, but not very specifically about the tailoring and exactly how it goes together and works. Sorry about that. I've been promising that for a long time. One of these days.

-Tasha

WOW- that looks awesome. really nice job. it semms like it has a really great shape to it. really want to see it on a person. what would one of these set someone back?

Again- truly phenominal job ,

Aaron

Tasha, I still think yours is one of the best explanation of how the sleeve works and the drawing does help with trying to figure out the patterning. I just really suck at making my own patterns. Until then I will eagerly await one day.

Armoured Air Bear wrote: what would one of these set someone back?
Aaron

responded privately

Cheers, Muriel! Your work is fab. One day I hope to conquer the zen of quilted garments.

Baron Alejandro wrote:Cheers, Muriel! Your work is fab. One day I hope to conquer the zen of quilted garments.

Ya know . . . I could conquer them for ya! 'cause you look teh sweeeet in the 14th c!

Tasha McG wrote:I don't really explain how the G.A. works on that one article of mine -- it's about the G.A. in general, but not very specifically about the tailoring and exactly how it goes together and works. Sorry about that. I've been promising that for a long time. One of these days.

-Tasha

We wants it now, if not sooner....

Yeah, i was asking cuz i wanted to attempt to produce one myself, thanks for the info

Cool! Please show us pics when you're done.

Are you planning on making the whole thing? Or are you going to start with a Revival/HE blank?

much like others on the AA my budge is ,imited, so I was going to attempt on completely myself. Hence why I was looking for a pattern

http://www.argentneedle.com/images/doub ... oublet.jpg

http://www.argentneedle.com/images/doub ... oublet.jpg

http://www.argentneedle.com/images/doub ... oublet.jpg

FINALLY - I'm posting pictures (with permission) of the hand-quilted doublet actually being worn.

Of course - It's DIRTY now (argh!) hehehehehe

Muriel wrote:FINALLY - I'm posting pictures (with permission) of the hand-quilted doublet actually being worn.

Such gorgeous work. Le sigh.

Of course - It's DIRTY now (argh!) hehehehehe

Since Tom's my La Belle hubby, you want I should take my distaff to him?

Muriel wrote:

Baron Alejandro wrote:Cheers, Muriel! Your work is fab. One day I hope to conquer the zen of quilted garments.

Ya know . . . I could conquer them for ya! 'cause you look teh sweeeet in the 14th c!

1 - There is no way I could afford the fabulousness of your work.

2 - They'd take away my burgeonet if I joined the 14th C mafia.

2a - I already HAVE a set of 14th Cen!!!