White Oak Accessory Box

[justus]

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/syrjustus/2258384622/" title="TB Closed Left by Justus Koshiol, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2034/2258384622_a242144932.jpg" width="500" height="315" alt="TB Closed Left"></a>


More pictures here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/syrjustus/ ... 891960847/

I used quarter sawn white oak for everything but the bottom panel, which is ply laminated with a thin piece of top grain leather.

Even though the oak is quarter sawn, there was a lot of very difficult grain, especially on the wide top. I had to change direction when planing on the last third, and even then it was a lot of work with a hand scraper to diminish the tear out.

As far as construction, I used a table saw and thickness planer to dimension the stock. I hand jointed the top, (not because I was trying to be purist but because I don't have a machine jointer ) All the surfaces are hand planed, and all the chamfers were hand done. From there is was a combination of hand and machine joinery, almost 50/50.

I made the latch hardware out of mild steel, cold working everything but the bolt handle which I heated and shrunk fit onto the bolt. The bolt loops are clench nailed through the face of the box.

This is the fisrt time I've tried this kind of metal work, and I gained a lot of confidence in the process. I will try my hand at hinges and side handles for the next piece.

The finish is Danish oil with a bit of walnut analine dye to give it a bit more of an English oak look. I finished the everything with three coats of Bison wax, leaving it pretty heavy on the mild steel hardware with the hope it will slow corrosion.

-Justus

[InsaneIrish]

That is SEXAY!!!


very cool. The only thing I don't like is the handles. So much work on everything else make the handle's modernism stand out.


I think you can do some period handles very easily, especially if you made the hasp/lock.

great job.

[Oswyn_de_Wulferton]

This is why I want my dad's workshop...

And a place to put it all.

Seriously, nice work. Looks great.

[Rasper77]

I love the latch design.
Agree though about the handles. If you can make a latch like that handles are easy.

[Cian of Storvik]

What a show-off!
The veining on the wood is increadible. Great job on the staining. I see one very glaring error in your concept though....
Whatever Theron puts in the box will pale in comparison to the box itself.
Therefore, the box deserves it's own box. And if he comissions another box to fit that box into, and it comes out even nicer....well, then you've just exacerbated the problem.
To solve the whole problem, he should give the box to me so I may dispose of it properly.

And a WOOT too!
-Cian

[Vladimir Bratovich]

Beautiful piece how long did that take?

[justus]

Beautiful piece how long did that take?

I probably spent 10 hrs on the woodwork, 1 hr on finishing, and probably 3 hours on the metal work. (Spread over four days.)

I'm not going to get much faster on the woodwork, but I could probably do the metal work in half the time now that I've done it before.

Course I'll have to learn the hinge and handles... and If I do mild steel handles I will also do a leather grips so that will add a couple hours.

Once I get moved (and yes people it will happen soon) I plan to do this kind of work full time. If I did these in batches I could significantly reduce the overall build time, and thereby make them a bit more affordable. As one offs they are crazy expensive.

-J

[justus]

What a show-off!
The veining on the wood is increadible. Great job on the staining. I see one very glaring error in your concept though....
Whatever Theron puts in the box will pale in comparison to the box itself.
Therefore, the box deserves it's own box. And if he comissions another box to fit that box into, and it comes out even nicer....well, then you've just exacerbated the problem.
To solve the whole problem, he should give the box to me so I may dispose of it properly.

And a WOOT too!
-Cian

Oh I doubt it, if he feels the way I do about my spurs, belt, and chain anything less than a box like this would be a disservice.

-J

[InsaneIrish]

Once I get moved (and yes people it will happen soon) I plan to do this kind of work full time. If I did these in batches I could significantly reduce the overall build time, and thereby make them a bit more affordable. As one offs they are crazy expensive.

-J

I have started to do this with some of my stuff as well. If I have to make 1-2 for a client, I will go ahead and cut out 3-4. Saves time on setting up jigs.

Also, I have come to the realization that I need 2 table saws. One for cutting and one for dados.

[Cat]

I LOVE the color you achieved! That is a very nice box! It's something I would expect to find in a fine furniture store.

Very well executed and very nicely finished!
Cat

[InsaneIrish]

What thickness steel did you use for the metal work?

What did you heat the metal with?

[justus]

What thickness steel did you use for the metal work?

What did you heat the metal with?

8th inch bar stock, which I hammered with a ball pen to achieve the texture. I cold formed everything, and only used heat to shrink the bolt handle onto the bolt.

I formed the bolt handle by hammering it around piece of bar stock, then removed the bar stock and closed the loop until it would no longer accept the bolt. Then I heated the loop with a propane torch until it glowed red, hammered it onto the bolt and quenched it.

My idea is that when it cooled it would shrink a bit and remain fast to the bolt. It seemed to work well, it is much tighter than when I tried the same maneuver cold.

I think next time I might try and file a recess in the bolt to accept the handle, or maybe even pass the handle through the bolt and upset it. I have to say I've enjoyed the processes and look forward to making more hardware.

-Justus

[Maeryk]

Once I get moved (and yes people it will happen soon) I plan to do this kind of work full time. If I did these in batches I could significantly reduce the overall build time, and thereby make them a bit more affordable. As one offs they are crazy expensive.

-J

I have started to do this with some of my stuff as well. If I have to make 1-2 for a client, I will go ahead and cut out 3-4. Saves time on setting up jigs.

Also, I have come to the realization that I need 2 table saws. One for cutting and one for dados.

I used to think the same thing. (And had, in fact, one for cutting, and one for dados).

Then I got a good router, and a nice long straightedge.

[InsaneIrish]

I used to think the same thing. (And had, in fact, one for cutting, and one for dados).

Then I got a good router, and a nice long straightedge.

I have the router and bits I need to do this. I have not tried it yet, but I might.

It just so happens I have an "extra" table saw that we don't use anymore, so I thought we should put it to use. It is a smaller one that I can set on a table to use.

[justus]

I LOVE the color you achieved! That is a very nice box! It's something I would expect to find in a fine furniture store.

Very well executed and very nicely finished!
Cat

Thank you, I was going for a fumed oak look and I think I got the color just about right. A little dye goes a long way.

BTW, This is the first time I've used Black Bison Paste Wax:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page ... okietest=1

And I couldn't be happier with the product. It applies easily, buffs very well, and smells like heaven in a can. (at least to a woodworker)

I've resigned all my old paste waxes to my machine tools.

-Justus

[Maeryk]

I LOVE the color you achieved! That is a very nice box! It's something I would expect to find in a fine furniture store.

Very well executed and very nicely finished!
Cat

Thank you, I was going for a fumed oak look and I think I got the color just about right. A little dye goes a long way.

BTW, This is the first time I've used Black Bison Paste Wax:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page ... okietest=1

And I couldn't be happier with the product. It applies easily, buffs very well, and smells like heaven in a can. (at least to a woodworker)

I've resigned all my old paste waxes to my machine tools.

-Justus

How is it with moisture?

[justus]

I used to think the same thing. (And had, in fact, one for cutting, and one for dados).

Then I got a good router, and a nice long straightedge.

I have the router and bits I need to do this. I have not tried it yet, but I might.

It just so happens I have an "extra" table saw that we don't use anymore, so I thought we should put it to use. It is a smaller one that I can set on a table to use.

A router table excels at dados, especially since you can do housed and stopped dadoes, as well as sliding dovetails which are to be found on late period work.

Be cautious using a wide dado stack in a small table saw, especially in dense woods. A small motor is much more likely to stall, or worse, slow and catch the workpiece sending it flying.

-Justus

[justus]

How is it with moisture?

Only time will tell, but water beads on it. It's not a poly finish, no where near as durable, but it does offer quite a bit of protection from the elements. Polyurethane finishes have their draw backs as well though, wax will never crack, peel or yellow... There is also the huge advantage that any damage can be so easily repaired.

I've seen oil and waxed kitchen tables stand up admirably with the wax renewed periodically.

For this application I believe that it will prove more than adequate, especially if its owner waxes it from time to time. (a pleasant task with such good smelling wax) I look forward to seeing it in ten years with the edges worn soft and a fine patina of scratches.

A close up of the latch hardware, I wish I'd thought to get close up of the lid latch, and also of the clenching from the inside.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/syrjustus/2278013790/" title="latch closeup by Justus Koshiol, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2418/2278013790_3da85f5363_o.jpg" width="596" height="452" alt="latch closeup"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/syrjustus/2277222447/" title="Latch 2 by Justus Koshiol, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2337/2277222447_08dd5aa792_o.jpg" width="472" height="354" alt="Latch 2"></a>

-J

[justus]

I did a little experiment to see how well a wax finish protects a surface from water.

I also did a second test of how well the wax would protect the wood from iron staining. Woods like oak that are high in tannic acid react with iron and form an indelible black stain.

I prepared one piece with three coats of paste wax, and one piece left planed bare.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/syrjustus/2279968963/" title="1 by Justus Koshiol, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2050/2279968963_237f5e3b46.jpg" width="500" height="204" alt="1"></a>

Sprayed with tap water, the bare plank immediately absorbed the water, though with little ill effect side from raising the grain a bit.

The water sprayed on the waxed piece beaded up immediately, and remained that way until it all evaporated leaving very faint white spots. The spots wiped away and the wood and finish were undamaged.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/syrjustus/2280765490/" title="2 by Justus Koshiol, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2233/2280765490_d03b26c9ee_o.jpg" width="837" height="326" alt="2"></a>

I then re planned the bare piece, and touched up the wax on the waxed piece. I also prepared two pieces of mild steel, filling them till they were bright so there would be no effect from previous oxidation.

I sprayed both pieces of wood, and then set the steel pieces on each.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/syrjustus/2279969931/" title="3 by Justus Koshiol, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3134/2279969931_61c3ae5eb4.jpg" width="500" height="264" alt="3"></a>

I let the pieces sit for several hours.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/syrjustus/2279970279/" title="4 by Justus Koshiol, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3228/2279970279_1f1e4fcf7a_b.jpg" width="1024" height="424" alt="4"></a>

The wax did not protect the wood from the iron-tannic reaction. Though it did protect it from incidental contact.

On the bare piece at A. and B. you can see black smudges that must be from handling the bare piece while I still had iron dust on my hands from filing the steel. There are also very small black spots all over the bare piece from a minute dusting of iron filings.

I am interested to do this experiment again with danish oil and wax and also a wipe on poly.

-J

[Maeryk]

The Danish Oil is a porous surface as well.

The Poly will protect it, totally.

Ever plane wet oak?

[Cap'n Atli]

I've been able to remove iron stains with hydrogen peroxide from the medicine chest. (Never leave "try-pieces" of ironwork sitting on top of someone else's oak sleigh outside, especially when it might rain. )

[justus]

The Danish Oil is a porous surface as well.

The Poly will protect it, totally.

Ever plane wet oak?

Are you speaking from experience or supposition?

Not all polys are created equal, nor are Danish oil finishes, or waxes, which is why I bothered to find out.

In this table from a recent issue of Fine Woodworking, You'll see that some danish oils performed poorly in the water Resistance test, (a test where the surface was sprayed with water and a steel bolt left on the surface over night) and some performed as well as the best wipe on polys.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3144/228 ... 42b2_o.jpg

I did my test because they haven't done a similar test with waxes yet, nor did they do one with combination finishes. I'll post my results when I've time to do them.

-Justus

[Maeryk]

The Danish Oil is a porous surface as well.

The Poly will protect it, totally.

Ever plane wet oak?

Are you speaking from experience or supposition?

Not all polys are created equal, nor are Danish oil finishes, or waxes, which is why I bothered to find out.

In this table from a recent issue of Fine Woodworking, You'll see that some danish oils performed poorly in the water Resistance test, (a test where the surface was sprayed with water and a steel bolt left on the surface over night) and some performed as well as the best wipe on polys.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3144/228 ... 42b2_o.jpg

I did my test because they haven't done a similar test with waxes yet, nor did they do one with combination finishes. I'll post my results when I've time to do them.

-Justus

Used danish oils on a few of the bottle stoppers I made, and poly on others. On grains that are really susceptible to water (like birds eye maple, black walnut,) the danish did little to keep the grain from raising and ruining the finish (even though I had done the wet/sand with the grain/dust), while the poly I was using (which I think was Formsby's wipe on poly) did just fine, and handled fridge/counter/wipe with sponge cycles just fine.

I realize all danish oils are not created equal.

[Thomas Powers]

That texture is what hurts my eye; the box looks very upscale; yet that texture on a piece of that time indicates that it was very poorly made---our quite modern.

The "hammered" look is much more an artifact of the 1900's Arts and Crafts movement; prior to that the smith was trying to produce as smooth a surface as possible and used flatners to remove the hammer marks. Ironwork was often sent to a whitesmith for smoothing and polishing.

Items left with hammer marks were either too cheap for the smith to take the bother of doing decent work or the work of a very low grade smith indeed! (Unfortunately sometimes corrosion uncovers hammer marks previously hidden)

If you want it to look hand forged then start tapering everything like a smith would and smooth any edges.

Using the forge to make traditional work I suggest people start with the wrong sized/shaped stock to ensure that everything gets hammered---an easy way to do this is to start with round stock if you need square stock and hammer it square and vice versa.

Lovely box though and nice wood choice. My boxes still look like they were done by a pigherder's apprentice---need to practice my adzing more...

Thomas

[Cat]

Personally, I like the texture but I can see what he means.

You could try etching next time. Maybe draw a viney-leafy design around the bar and on the latch handle and soak it in ferric chloride to etch it.

Either way, I still think it looks awesome!
Cat

[audax]

You're a very handy fellow, Justus. Nice work.

[justus]

I don't mind the criticism, from the pictures I have of period metal work on boxes and chests Thomas is correct. The historical work does have a smooth finish rather than a faux hammed finish.

In this case however, it really is just a taste thing. I could have left the steel smooth finished as it was when it started, or I could have used the flat side of the hammer to give it more texture without the even dimpling that the ball pen did, but In the end I liked it better this way.

-Justus

[Thomas Powers]

Personally I think the hammered look looks great on it---just not medieval.

It depends on what you are trying to do; always a problem when you can easily make stuff *better* than would be the common norm for the period you are trying to work to.

And also seen in reverse as many people try to make their pieces look like the ones in the museum with centuries of wear and abuse when their piece should look brand new or with reasonable wear for that person's use! (They did artificially wear one item in the York goldworker's house as the original inventory said it had been inherited and so was much older than the stuff bought new...)

I'd like to try tannic/iron as a staining process someday as I like the colour! I've seen a bunch of amonia fumed oak; but prefer the blue from iron.

Thomas