Working on my 2009 list of improvements

Mac Thamhais · Post by **Mac Thamhais** » Wed Feb 25, 2009 12:37 am

Very nicely done milord.

Just so's you know, I've been stealing progress pics off of this whole thread to hold in reserve as inspiration until I am able to begin improving my own kit. Hope you don't mind.

Cian of Storvik · Post by **Cian of Storvik** » Wed Feb 25, 2009 1:01 pm

Not a problem at all. You can link to my Flickr site if you'd like. There's lots of pics of stuff on there. I just want to build on people's ideas as they have inspired me to build on theirs.
I will try to get someone to take a picture off me in the pourpoint and with the new leg armor.

I'm just happy to be scratching stuff off of my "want" list.
Still have a few projects left to work on:
Build coat of plates and a weapons locker (box) for my weapons.
-Cian

Brandr · Post by **Brandr** » Wed Feb 25, 2009 1:39 pm

Okay since I have been using your work for inspiration as well......

What is the link to your flickr site Cian?

Cian of Storvik · Post by **Cian of Storvik** » Wed Feb 25, 2009 2:56 pm

Here's the flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/18254720@N05/

Here is a link to a slideshow of scabbards I've done:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/18254720@N ... 5193/show/

Mac Thamhais · Post by **Mac Thamhais** » Thu Feb 26, 2009 2:03 am

many thanks good milord

Cian of Storvik · Post by **Cian of Storvik** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 4:27 pm

More pics:

My greaves partially assembled. They are basically the same as they were last year, but I replaced the mild steel splints with stainless steel, and I slightly changed the shape of the splints. They now taper from 1.5" at the top to 1" at the ankle. The old mild steel splints were just 1" wide 18 ga steel from knee to ankle. Not seen in these photos are the buckles and straps (added after the photo was taken).

The back of the shield. I added canvas to the back, per Sir Corby's direction, but never took a picture of it. Definately improves the look. It's a little beat up having seen some fighting last week.

The cedar chest was done weeks ago, but I never took a good photo of it in daylight. I also added a third strap hinge in the middle of the lid, since I had an extra. The hasp has a lock on it in the form of a cockerel. This was actually an import from China (I paid like $5 + $8 shipping), and even though it's not based on any historic piece, I think it looks very nice, and could easily be something seen in European use.

Last picture is of my cuisses with the soup can knees pointed on.

That's all for now.
-Cian

Cian of Storvik · Post by **Cian of Storvik** » Fri Mar 06, 2009 10:48 am

So I'm working on my new arm protection and figured I'd give some updated photos of what I'm working on. You may remember the velvet covered vambrace on the first page that is inconspicuously hiding with the picture of the unfinished greaves. Well. That's finished. The edging stitched on, splints added and strapped.

Like the greaves, this bracer is blue silk velvet with a polyester ribbon edging, and stainless steel splints (3/4" tapering up to 1"). The base is not glue hardened leather like the greaves, but ABS plastic from House of the Wolf (NLA).

So, the next piece of the puzzle is the upper arm defense or what I'm calling the rerebrace. There's only one extant piece that I'm aware of, of a rerebrace from the early 13th centry and it just so happens that this design will work fine with the elbow and bracer.

From the British Museum. A cuir bouilli piece, that has since been flattened. This is also a tooled piece of leather on leather backing. Where as I'm not following the original piece except in shape and how it is affixed to my arm. Mine will be a single layer of leather, covered in velvet with splints to match the brace and the greaves of my kit:

Noteable are the holes at the top, which allow the piece to be pointed on somehow, and evidence of a strap that attaches to the middle and wraps around the bicep. This will work out perfectly, as my bracer attaches the exact same way.

The first thing I did was hold a ruler up to the photo to get an idea of the relative dimensions of the piece. In the book, it was about 3 7/8" by 3 1/8". Measuring my own arm, I figured that a rerebrace about 9" high would be just about right, which made my pattern about 9" x 7.5"

Here are some photos:

The first step was to water formed the brace just like I did the greaves so many years ago. Note that I didn't just make the rerebrace a tube with curves cut out to clear the bend of my forearm and shoulder. I actually dished the piece of heavy leather to give it a more rounded look (so it looks like I have a muscle...which I don't have any). But like the greaves, it accentuates the form by exadurating it slightly.

Another note is that pieces like this probably had the grain side (smooth) side of the leather facing the surface of the piece, but since the natural bend of the leather followed my arm somewhat and minimized the amount of shaping needed, AND since I'm coving the outside with velvet, the piece is technically inside out.

The water forming process is basically like washing out the tannins that keep the leather supple so that it becomes more like armor bend leather, and at the same time is easy to shape while wet. Once dried through, I actually re-wet the surface and apply a glue that cures with humidity (Gorilla Glue). I forgot to take a picture of this step, but basically the stuff foams up and you have to keep brushing it down to work it into the leather. After the first coat of glue has dried, I sand down all of the bumps to give it a smoother surface and apply a second coat. Since there is no longer any water in the piece, this second coat goes on smooth and doesn't foam up like the first.

The inside (grain side of the hide) was also treated with the glue. When this is dry, the piece has holes drilled out using a dremel so the edging can eventually be stitched in place.

Spray glue keeps the velvet in place until the edging is stiched in place.

In the next photo you can see the curve in the rerebrace that will give the arm the look of being muscular. You can also see the interior with the dried application of the glue. At this stage the edging has also been stitched in place.

Now I just need to cut, file, drill and rivit the steel splints. Add a buckle and strap, and it's ready to put on my arm. (Whew! Yeah. that's all that needs to be done.)

-Cian

Diglach Mac Cein · Post by **Diglach Mac Cein** » Fri Mar 06, 2009 12:11 pm

Very, very cool!

.

Mac Thamhais · Post by **Mac Thamhais** » Fri Mar 06, 2009 3:34 pm

Awesome. But then, much awesomeness has ensued with your kit lately. Job well done so far.

Cian of Storvik · Post by **Cian of Storvik** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 7:05 pm

The rearbrace is almost complete. I'm just waiting on a buckle to match the rest of the bronze buckles on my kit. Below is a view of the upper arm defense, elbow rondel and vambrace. The vam will eventually be a full cannon after I add a hinge to the other half (not shown).

I also did a modification to my globose so it sits higher up on my chest, and added the channel guard back on the front.

Steve S. · Post by **Steve S.** » Fri Mar 13, 2009 11:44 am

This thread is awesome. Awesome work.

Steve

Mac Thamhais · Post by **Mac Thamhais** » Fri Mar 13, 2009 3:27 pm

Yes indeed. Most inspiring.

Cian of Storvik · Post by **Cian of Storvik** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 11:49 am

Here's a little bit of medieval bling you can do for yourselves with a dremel tool and some rat tail files and an investment of about $20 in brass:

I needed a belt chape for my sword belt, and wanted something I could incorporate my badge of triple scallops into. I found an affordable chape at Quiet Press that looked like it would be easy to alter and add a badge to. So for about $9+shipping (I needed buckles anyhow, so the shipping was negligable). I used the dremel to grind smooth the relief at the top of the fitting, and used a cut-off saw to remove the eagle in the center. (The chape on the left is the original. The one on the right is modified.)

I then took some .032 brass stock and cut out a relatively tiny 5/8" x 5/8" square to make a tiny badge. Using the dremel cut-off wheel and rat-tail files I worked down the brass to make my triple scallop emblem. As you can see it's small enough to fit on my thumb nail - 13mm (or about 1/2"). I made a tiny rivet for it out of some 5/64" brass rod.
The tip of the leather belt will extend down into the opening, and I'll peen the triple scallop into the middle as shown in the first picture.

I'll work on adding another brass badge for the flat area at the top ; most likely a unicornate seahorse. I'll post a pic when done.

Preview: This week I should be working on finishing some flourescent lanterns with horn panes based on the Mary Rose finds and a back-up weapon for a household member that fights spear.
-Cian

Mac Thamhais · Post by **Mac Thamhais** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 9:40 pm

Looks awesome, can't wait to see it when its done.

Cian of Storvik · Post by **Cian of Storvik** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 9:46 am

To no fault of Sir Raymond, the belt chape has the more coppery color of his hand cast bronze pieces, and the rest of the scabbard hardware is brass colored.

I managed to screw-up peening. When you're working with somewhat thin leather, big chunky rivets (especially ones you've made yourself out of brass rod) tend to not want to peen but fold over, tear up the leather etc. - etc.
Anywho, I wound-up having to cut-off the top of the chape were I buggered the pre-drilled rivet holes and wound-up re-drilling holes where I was going to put the seahorse.

Over-all, I'm pretty happy with the end result.

-Cian

Also I'm going to queue up a a wisby gaunt project that I need to finish before an event in a week and a half. This is going to be a demi gaunt (e.g. no finger plates so I don't foul the string on my bow during combat archery).

Preview photo:

Mac Thamhais · Post by **Mac Thamhais** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 2:12 pm

The end result still looks fantastic. Keep up the good work.

Cian of Storvik · Post by **Cian of Storvik** » Wed Mar 18, 2009 10:01 pm

I'm getting a bit slow on completing my projects. I decided to change how my hidden elbows attach and was monkeying around with that as well as sewing eyelets on my gambeson for where the points go through.

Anyhow, the next item I mentioned was a back-up weapon for a member of my household. Last Pennsic, this guy was spearing some good gentles on the other side of the line and managed to snap his spear. Without any back-up weapon he spent a good deal of time walking around trying to borrow another one. After the battle and hearing his woeful sullen look, I offered him my rondel dagger and told him "I never use it...And you shouldn't be without a weapon on the line". So I'm over his house the other day and see my....er...HIS rondel dagger. And it's all beat up like he's been using it as a tire iron (still usable but not pretty like when I gave it to him). And I said..."Dude. I want that back. Besides you're moving to a Roman persona. And they didn't have rondels. I'll make you a new one." He objected "No! I love that dagger! It's perfect! I've killed like a ton of people with that." The head of the household interjected "Yeah. Just the other day he killed one guy like 4 times at that one event."

Well....I want my beat up dagger back (it has my badge on it)...So I built him a new back-up weapon to the same dimensions but to fit his persona, A pompeii gladius:

The ball pommel is maple. The guard is poplar. They and the narrowed portion of the rattan were stained dark walnut with 5 coats of laquer. The original stick of rattan was about 1.6" And I added a 13 oz. piece of leather on each striking edge to build it up further. Over all length is 22 1/4". blade length 13". Grip 5 3/4". The ball pommel is 2 1/4" diameter.

-Cian

Mac Thamhais · Post by **Mac Thamhais** » Thu Mar 19, 2009 5:08 am

Impressive. Let's hope it serves him on the field of battle as well as his... er, YOUR dagger.

Cian of Storvik · Post by **Cian of Storvik** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 2:43 pm

I've finished one of the gauntlets in time for a melee event. I needed a demi for combat archery (my finger gauntlets as they are, would tear up the bow string). To this end, I wanted something that looked about my time period and wouldn't have metal contacting the bow string.

Although a bell-cuff gauntlet was in use for my period (ca 1360), bell cuffs tend to get hung-up on the string, so I wanted something with a lower profile. I was inspired by seeing gauntlets made by Master Magnus (Adam) at White Mountain as well as other replicas I've seen of wisby style gauntlets.

I purchased a pair of pig skin work gloves that would take leather dye well, as I had a good piece of pig skin to make the cuff of the gauntlets. I also had steel splints from a set of bracers that I had as part of my kit, 16 months ago. I also used cotton duck canvas as a backing material to add more strength to the cuff.

There's 45 brass rivets and a buckle from Raymond's Quiet press (I have about a dozen of this same buckle throughout my kit). There was a lot of hand stitching as well.

I want to note that this is "sort of similar" to a combination of a few of the wisby gauntlet plate finds. And does not exactly replicate a single gauntlet. It also does not have finger plates yet.

On the plus side, I really like the comfort of the wisby style of gaunt. they are no replacement for the protectiveness of my Oak's Armory gauntlets, but they are more then suitable for combat archery or use with a cup hilt weapon. I also like their low profile appearance, and the way it really pops with the contrast of shiney steel and brass to the black.
-Cian

Cian of Storvik · Post by **Cian of Storvik** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:48 am

I'm getting a lot of PMs enquiring about the Mary Rose (c1545) Flourescent lantern project. Since this is drawing a lot of attention, I'm going to go into a lot more detail and take a lot more photos for the purposes of making it a step 1 do this, step 2 do that.
As such, I probably will simply link it to a URL for people to view. I'm hoping to be complete with the project by the end of the week with atleast the preliminary instructions, with list of parts/materials (with cost), tools/skills needed and photos.
As you may know already, the prototype was completed last year, but I need to make a few changes to the design for user friendliness (to switch a bulb or replace a battery) and streamline the process a bit. Ultimately to make it easier for those looking to fabricate a flourescent light source that has a period appearance from about 20 feet away but all of the safety of a low voltage lantern solution for camping.
-Cian

Cian of Storvik · Post by **Cian of Storvik** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 8:32 pm

I'm almost done with the lantern write-up.
After struggling with my 14th century kit for the past year, I've also decided that I am going to work on more light-weight armor for SCA combat and abandon the heavy metal armor. To that effort I'm going to be working on my new persona as an 12th century assassin.

Ieuan Gower · Post by **Ieuan Gower** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 9:07 pm

That will go well with my ninja kit - anybody know where I can order tabi :wink:

Cian of Storvik · Post by **Cian of Storvik** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 10:22 am

Just an update on the fluorescent horn paned lantern project. I walked out of the shop yesterday covered cap-a-pie in dust (a good sign that you're making progress on something). I think the worst part of this project so far has been ripping the vertical slats. One day I shall invest in a table saw so I can just knock that kind of stuff out.

It's been taking forever as I seem to spend more time taking pics and typing up instructions for the how to then I do actually working on it. Last week I didn't even touch it because I was so tired of looking at the pile of parts on the work bench.

Anyhow, here's a picture of the horn paned lantern dry fitted (no panes yet) together prior to staining and laquer.

The nifty little part is that I was so OCD on the wood door assembly that what you see in the picture doesn't even have any glue on it yet. It's all just dry fitted and like me.....it's quite square!

-Cian

Cian of Storvik · Post by **Cian of Storvik** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 11:17 pm

more pics of the lantern project...

Here are the lantern's faux horn panes (made of acrylic) 9" x 2 3/8".

A picture in day-light with the addition of a handle..

One of the diagrams from the diatriabe...I mean...DIY project pages that I'm working on...

and a picture of the extant Mary Rose lantern

Mac Thamhais · Post by **Mac Thamhais** » Wed Apr 15, 2009 12:21 pm

Looks excellent, can't wait to read the rest of the diatriabe...I mean...DIY project pages

Christian Darmody · Post by **Christian Darmody** » Wed Apr 15, 2009 11:03 pm

Cian,
where exactly in Stoorvik are you located? I was raised in Lochmere...once was Myrkwood. I am still in Atlantia just a few hours (7) south now. I was wondering if you would accept an invitation to come and teach our llocal group how to make these Merry Rose Lanterns?

I could offer lodging and meals, and even reimburse you for you gas expense. Could you contact me off line?

Thanks,
Syr Christian Darmody
MKA Clint Darby
clintdarby@gmail.com

Effingham · Post by **Effingham** » Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:30 am

Cian, thou rockest.

Damn, man. That is some cool stuff.

Effingimpressed

Cian of Storvik · Post by **Cian of Storvik** » Thu Apr 16, 2009 9:42 am

Thank you, Lord Effingham. It's awesome to get recognition from those whom's opinion you respect. I'm honored by your praise.

Sir Christian, your invitation is exceptionally kind, but it would be difficult for me to try and schedule something like that at this time. The web page that I'm working on that describes the process is pretty detailed, and I don't think a trip is really necessary. Once done, you can always ask questions, and I can update with more and more detail.
-Cian

Christian Darmody · Post by **Christian Darmody** » Fri Apr 17, 2009 8:02 am

Cian,
I understand completely; time is valuable. I wanted to wave the preverbia; carrot and see if I might intice you

. Perhaps another time.
I will gladly peruse your webpage and attempt to organize a class for my Canton. I do however, strongly suggest that you concider generating a handout and a class outline. The University of Atlantia would benifit greatly from a class taught by you. I dare say that the citizens of Atlantia would be left richer for their exposure to your efforts. I pray that you share your talent.

On another note; please extend my hello to Sean De La Mare. you see, I am his Uncle of sorts. He is squired within my Clan and his Knight is both my squire brother and my dearest friend. I am quite proud of Sean and his Lady wife, please tell them I send my best wishes.

Thank You,
Syr Christian Darmody

Effingham · Post by **Effingham** » Fri Apr 17, 2009 8:39 am

Gotta Q for you -- did you run across that lantern plan online somewhere, or is that something you are putting together? It looks mighty useful...

Effingham
getting ideas

Cian of Storvik · Post by **Cian of Storvik** » Fri Apr 17, 2009 11:38 am

It's all mine. I'm sort of an adobe paint shop addict. I'm always making doodles and plans on it.

Sir Christian, I will pass on your regards to their Excellencies. And thank you again for the kind offer. I'll try to finish up the website shortly (just got a lot of mundane stuff on my plate) so everyone that wants to make one can see what's involved.
-Cian

Effingham · Post by **Effingham** » Fri Apr 17, 2009 12:37 pm

SWEET.

I can't wait to see how this thing works.

Effingham

Cian of Storvik · Post by **Cian of Storvik** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 10:32 pm

LANTERN INSTRUCTIONS

Christian Darmody · Post by **Christian Darmody** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 12:00 am

Cian,
Well done.

Thank You,
Christian

Cian of Storvik · Post by **Cian of Storvik** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 8:10 am

Thank you Sir Christian. I'm still working on a few illustrations, and been noticing spelling and grammatical errors. So it may change a bit over the next couple of days, but feel free to point out any errors or if you need any clarifications. (I tend to belabour obvious points and completely skip critical ones...which is why I'll never be a good teacher).
-Cian