Let talk early 16th Century Hats

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Vermillion
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Let talk early 16th Century Hats

Post by Vermillion »

Ok.... I need a hat, and I love the Cavalier hat. But I don't want to look like every other Pirate Wanna be you see at SCA events or Ren Faires.

My persona is early 16th Century Prussian (very german in culture). I want something that protects from the weather, and has some kind of brim to keep the sun out of my eyes.

I've searched the web, and I haven't found much I like. Probably the best so far is the Landesneckht "Star Fish " hat, but I can't find one for sale from a seller I trust.

Any ideas or suggestions?
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Post by InsaneIrish »

I don't know of anyone actually making and selling landsknecht hats.

you could always try making one on your own:

http://flickr.com/photos/77086627@N00/4 ... 9/sizes/l/
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Post by James B. »

I have two going to Birka this weekend; if they do not sell I will post them here.
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Post by Balin50 »

Image


Lady in our groups makes hats like the one on the left pretty sure she will be at estrella selling them.

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Post by Vermillion »

Well, I can't make Estrella...

But if any are left over, or James' you don't sell yours, let me know.

Thanks Guys!
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Post by Uadahlrich »

I made my first hat ever using this pattern. Though I couldn't find a large embroidery hoop so I used some plastic boneing.

"Materials Needed:
1.5 - 2 yards of mid weight fabric (brim and "box")
.75 yards of HEAVY weight buckram - the width I found with an acceptable weight at Hancock Fabrics was only about 20" - you'll only need a little more than 18".
One 18" Brass Macrame Hoop (the secret ingredient)
One package double fold bias tape.
One 40" cotton braid shoe string - in whatever color you want your strap to be.

Okay, start by placing your macrame hoop on your buckram. Trace a circle (using the outter edge of the hoop as a guide) and cut it out. Mark the center of your circle. Now: you will need to cut an rounded oval hole, centered on the center of the circle, for your head to go in. This is trial and error. once you have a hole that fits well, cut another .25" off (for seams and bias tape to make up later)

Using heavy thread, baste the ring to the circle around the edges. You should now have a "halo" with the ring at the edge to re-enforce the buckram. Once the ring is in place (and generally not moving around) use the double fold bias tape to seal it to the edge of the buckram - hand sewing time. Just open up the bias tape and place it so that it encases the brass ring and helps attach it that much better to the buckram when you sew it down.

Next, measure the widest point between the ring and the cut out for your head, this should be the broadest section of the buckram. Double this measurement and add at least two inches. This will be the width of your brim fabric. You will be cutting a long rectangle with the length being the circumfrence of your brim and the width being the measurement you just calculated. (Actually, I ususally subract at least one inch from the "lenght" of this rectangle so that the fabric fits the brim tightly).

Sew the width-ends of your rectangle together, now you have a big circle of fabric, like a ring, which should be something like 53" around (if you are using an 18" macrame hoop) and about 13" - 16" inches wide.

Place your rimmed "halo" inside the circle of fabric. Once it is centered on the circle, you should be able to see that the "brim" fabric will drape into place on the "halo", making up the top and bottom fabric covering on the brim of your "pizza" hat. This fabric needs to be either gathered or pleated into place and tacked down at the "inner" edge of the brim (the hole where your head will go). *This style will not have very deep pleats - see end of message for the variation.

Now, the "box" that goes on top of the hat can be made in a number of ways. No matter where you place the seams of the four parts on the "top" of the box, you will need to make a matching "bottom". Once this "bottom" has been constructed, center it on your brim piece and cut out a hole that matches the head hole in your brim. (You can line your "box" by replicating it exactly inside out - including head hole). Sew the square, outside edges of your "top" and "bottom" box pieces together (place liner inside at this point if you are lining it).

Line up the edges of the head hole on your brim with the edges of the head hole on your "box". Baste the two together. ALMOST DONE!

Now, make a peice of bias tape out of your remaining fabric. You dont need a lot of fabric to do this and you can find better descriptions of making bias tape online than I can give you here. Use this bais tape to cover all the nasty, thready ends that are now all around your joint head hole. This is going to be hand sewing.

Finish your hat with the cotton shoe string (minus plasticy end bits - use white glue and roll the cut ends between your fingers until they dry to reseal the ends of the cut cotton shoe string in a more "period" way) as the chin strap - lots of different methods here as well. You can include a covered button in the middle top of your box.

If this just made your confusion worse, I'm sorry. With a little luck and some trial and error you should get a pizza hat. I recommend using lots of muslin mock ups!

~Cherylyn

*If you want a hat with the pleated brim fabric that has pleats all the way out to the edge: Cut your length on your original brim fabric rectangle at least twice what you need to go around the edge of your brim. If this means sewing two pieces together to make it longer, do it now. DO NOT SEW IT INTO A CIRCLE YET!

Go heat your iron. Take a piece of dressmakers or tailors chalk and draw a line right down the middle of your long brim fabric rectangle. This is going to be your guide. Grab your sewing pins.

Using your iron you will need to create pleats in your brim fabric. I tend to place pleats 1+inches apart and only make them about .25" deep. Use your guide line to keep your fabric centered. Pin each pleat in place as you go. Once you are done, measure to make sure that your pleated fabric will still fit around the brim of your hat once it is sew into a circle.

Use your sewing machine to sew down the middle of your pleats. Work the fabric in the direction of the pleats and use your chalk line as a guide. I recommend two lines of sewing, one about .25" from each side of the chalk line.

Sew fabric into a circle and then follow directions from point of inserting "halo" into sewn up circle of brim fabric.

One advantage to this style is that the brim fabric almost pleats itself into the head hole with the ironed in pleats in place. "
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