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split rattan polearm question

Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 9:34 pm
by Vladimir
I made a new pole using the instructions on D. Seb's site.

My question is where does the striking surface start? Does it start at the red line, or the blue.

[img]http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee11/fryeguy_2007/unpaddedquestion.jpg[/img]

Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 9:35 pm
by Leo Medii
You're making a warp nacell?

Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 10:03 pm
by Vladimir
:roll:
sketch not to scale

Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 10:05 pm
by Maeryk
Umm.. it starts whatever your kingdom max length is back from the tip. :)

Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 11:21 pm
by Vladimir
These things have only just now become legal here. I just want to make sure I got it right.

Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 11:45 pm
by DukeAvery
Greetings,

Split rattan construction is meant to impart the striking characteristics of a single piece of rattan, including and preserving the flex.

You'd better check with your local earl marshal, because what exactly this means in the case your a talking about (the overlap) is open for debate. The best split rattan glaive I ever had had the splits contacting the weapon shaft at an angle with one more major flex point back from the head.

Let us know what your EM says, as I'm starting to make these as well.

Regards,

Avery

Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 1:40 pm
by Sean Powell
For an engineering opinion (and I'm not a marshal in your kingdom) most of the 'flex' in a rattan shaft is between the top hand and the base of the head and is bending of the shaft. Three is some 'flex' that is compression of the head if it is padded but your kingdom has dispensed with that need assuming that the weight of the head isn't excessive. With that said I would assume that if the overlapped location was in a location similar to the previously padded head then you would experience substantially the same amount of flex in that weapon...

In the East Kingdom I believe that the striking head is legal all the way to the base of the overlap but I would want to double check the current interpretations... I use padded pollarms because a stick without a realistic looking head is just a stick. :)

Sean

Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 2:19 pm
by DukeAvery
Sean Powell wrote:For an engineering opinion (and I'm not a marshal in your kingdom) most of the 'flex' in a rattan shaft is between the top hand and the base of the head and is bending of the shaft. Three is some 'flex' that is compression of the head if it is padded but your kingdom has dispensed with that need assuming that the weight of the head isn't excessive. With that said I would assume that if the overlapped location was in a location similar to the previously padded head then you would experience substantially the same amount of flex in that weapon...

In the East Kingdom I believe that the striking head is legal all the way to the base of the overlap but I would want to double check the current interpretations... I use padded pollarms because a stick without a realistic looking head is just a stick. :)

Sean


That makes sense. The sweet glaive I mention above was about 1/3 blade with 4 support points for the blades. This restricts the overall flex, therefore more local flex is needed. The main shaft was wide (elliptical for gripping and orientation preservation) and meant not to flex much. Legal out West (or was), and was very good at getting your point across (pun intended) at 7.5'.

Regards,

Avery

"Don't break your toys"

Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 5:21 pm
by Vladimir
Sean Powell wrote:I use padded pollarms because a stick without a realistic looking head is just a stick. :)

Sean


I agree, I'm just making sure I have a full toy box. Making it look (as much as rules allow) like an actual weapon is first and foremost.

Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 5:53 pm
by D. Sebastian
That's "laminated", not split.

I ended the striking surface where the pieces started to overlap.
I've seen them where the striking surface includes the overlap.

Posted: Sun Aug 16, 2009 8:07 am
by white mountain armoury
Mine is laminated, a seperat split piece is attatched to the main pole, bend over a "brace" of rattan.
I prefer the shape and it preserves the structural integrity of the pole by not having a split in it.