The Armour Archive

Hello,

I just got in a few yards of 'trim-lock' door edging for 2 new aluminum SCA shields. I plan on evening the shield face with bondo so there is no lip and covering with canvas for aestetic reasons. I would prefer not to lace or sew the edging on but I don't want it pulling away either. I have had poor luck with trim-loc staying attached with just it's internal barb connection.

I'm thinking a glue or epoxy but want something that will survive impact, vibration, high-temperatures in the car trunk and stick to aluminum.

What have you found that works best for securing trimlock to aluminum shields?

Thanks,
Sean

gluing the canvas down tightly over it is more than enough to keep it on.

I have had no luck with glue.

A heavy layer of black tape (gaffers or gorilla) does a reasonable job, but is not permanent and generally only looks good for a month or so until the tape starts getting torn up.

Unless the trim-loc is very secure, it will start to get cut through from the inside out by the Al edge if you tape over or use it clean. This is independent of just keeping it on.

The only system I have seen that works for >1 year or two is to sew or wire rawhide over the trimloc. In tandom, they seem to do a great job of protecting each other. The trick with the rawhide is that it has to be BONE DRY when drilled for sewing, otherwise it will still shrink a little and shred whatever you are sewing with. Then the holes in the rawhide and Al (doesn't shink) never line up again.

I suspect good leather would do a good job as a sub for rawhide... but no experience.

B. Amos wrote:gluing the canvas down tightly over it is more than enough to keep it on.

Seconded.

I put a bit of contact cement on the edge of the shield and then hammer the trim down with a rubber mallet. Once that dries I use a lot of spray adhesive to hold the canvas. Several layers of paint on the face and edge keeps it all together well, in my experience.

I may not give a shield the same amount of abuse as you do, so results may vary.

Well, then I guess I don't need to make a special trip out for glue. I'm going to go sand the shields thoroughly for gluing the canvas, round the edges thoroughly so they don't cut the trimlock from the inside and then apply it. Canvas will be all that secures it but I might do a bias strip first. My wife has agreed to do the canvas and painting but I need to get them ready first. Once she is done I hope to have a pair of matched ecrance shields for Pennsic. (One of MANY projects)

Sean

P.S. it helps to get up and DO the projects rather then talk about them here.

I didn't use trim lock, but I used a small amout of liquid nails caulk to hold some small diameter high pressure hose on the edge of my aluminum shield. I split the hose and caulked a thin bead into the hose and then slid it on over the aluminum. IT IS ON THERE. I don't know if I'll ever be able to get it off...

Jess, what did you use to split the hose?

I just use a box knife for mine. Probably explains why I'm always in the house getting bandaids...

Local guy has his spay coated with truck bed liner. helps with the Vibration
and glues the edge in place.I guess if you covered that no one would know the diff.

Broadway wrote:Jess, what did you use to split the hose?

Get a short piece of PVC a little larger inside dia. than the outside dia. of the tube. Cut a thin slot in the PVC, and stick a boxcutter blade in it so it protrudes enough to cut one side of the tube. Place cutter jig in a vice. Pull tube thru cutter.

Utility knife.

Uugh at spray liner. I use industrial silicone. (The kind from home depot) and apply it with a caulk gun I have never had any problems!

I ran a bead of Goop down mine before I attached it. It's done pretty well. Not 100%, had to recently redo part of it, but it's working pretty well.

Alex, you're a genius. A super genius.

I have seen a number of people from the West do the Rawhide method and it looks great just wondering where people are getting rawhide (lowest priced) from. Looking in to ordering some and trying it before I try bulk order so I can get more people to try.

Also anyone have construction pictures I could share with others?

Thanks for the help.

Duke Brannos
Midrealm

pinch the trim lock down tight with a pair of pylers, working your way around the shield. I usually use some duct tape over the corners but as Brother Amos said, wrapping and gluing the canvas over it works fine. I tend to overdue things....

I hold my rubber hose on with shoe goo.

works great so should work with autoedging.

Brannos wrote:I have seen a number of people from the West do the Rawhide method and it looks great just wondering where people are getting rawhide (lowest priced) from. Looking in to ordering some and trying it before I try bulk order so I can get more people to try.

Also anyone have construction pictures I could share with others?

Thanks for the help.

Duke Brannos
Midrealm

I get a pic or two up for when I get home.

It lasts if maintained with water sealant for a several years. You might get a small blow threw on a corner or point after a year or two. We get a sheet of rawhide for about 80$ Tandy / leather factory store near us.

•Use tin snips to cut it in to 2 and 3/4 inch strips. Cut to length as needed & overlap seams
•Dropped in water for an hour or so it will get soft like cardboard but it will not tear
•Put on your trim-lock on shield and cut to size
•Use B-100 binder clips (from office depot) to clip rawhide around the shield & trim lock( B-100 is a size not brand)
•Wait a week at least for it to try!
•No really wait a week it needs to be bone dry !
•Drill threw face of shield and threw the Rawhide, small holes big enough for a needle & thread, It will be like plastic and formed around the shield & trim lock.
•Sew the raw hide down through the shield face, do not go around shield edge ! Threw face of shield and back of shield and the rawhide

YOU MUST treat rawhide with water sealant or it will get soft like cardboard when it get wet and cut from impact !

Uther

Duke Uther wrote:•Sew the raw hide down through the shield face, do not go around shield edge ! Threw face of shield and back of shield and the rawhide

Do you use artificial sinew for sewing it down?

YOU MUST treat rawhide with water sealant or it will get soft like cardboard when it get wet and cut from impact !

Uther

What is the "preferred" water sealant?

Thanks!

Uther, thanks again and hope we might see you at Pennsic? I have good number of guys going to give your method of making shields a try here in Detroit.

Broadway wrote:Alex, you're a genius. A super genius.

Heh. Here's a t-shirt my Mom bought me:

Gilebert wrote:

Duke Uther wrote:•Sew the raw hide down through the shield face, do not go around shield edge ! Threw face of shield and back of shield and the rawhide

Do you use artificial sinew for sewing it down?

I tied my edging down with AS but it is pretty slick, and wants to come undone. I'm looking for a better idea.

Baron Alcyoneus wrote:

Gilebert wrote:

Duke Uther wrote:•Sew the raw hide down through the shield face, do not go around shield edge ! Threw face of shield and back of shield and the rawhide

Do you use artificial sinew for sewing it down?

I tied my edging down with AS but it is pretty slick, and wants to come undone. I'm looking for a better idea.

After you tie off your AS, twist up the tail ends and use a lighter and burn/melt down the ends. When the flames reach the knot, use a scrap piece of leather and smother (do not blow out) the flames. This mashes the melted synthetic material and prevents easy loosening.

BdeB wrote:pinch the trim lock down tight with a pair of pylers, working your way around the shield. I usually use some duct tape over the corners but as Brother Amos said, wrapping and gluing the canvas over it works fine. I tend to overdue things....

+1

That is the precise method I learned from Baron Miguel.

This glue works wonders to secure the canvas over the shield:

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... om/Super77

With the shield clean and the trim attached, you spray the glue on the shield and then apply the canvas. There should be enough glue to moisten the canvas, so you can flatten it neatly over the shield without lumps or bubbles.
When you have the face done and dry, turn it over. Cut where necessary to fit and then do the same with each part, wrapping the canvas over the edging with enough room to cover neatly, secure the edging and ensure a nice look. After you add a base coat of your choice and paint, it is very, very secure.

This is my write up for it

Rawhide edge

It lasts if maintained with water sealant for a several years. You might get a small blow threw on a corner or point after a year or two. We get a sheet of rawhide for about 80$ Tandy / leather factory store near us. This works better in my experience than chew toys last longer over all. Ovoid thin spots on the rawhide!

Use tin snips to cut it in to 2 and 3/4 inch strips. Cut to length as needed & overlap seams 2inchs aluminum shield. Wood shield strips 4inchs wide cut to length
Dropped in water for an hour or so it will get soft like cardboard but it will not tear
Put on your trim-lock on shield and cut to size Aluminum shield. For wood shield use rope same size as wood as shock absorber . Normally rope held in place by canvassing shield first on front with glue wrapping it over edge glued down
Use B-100 binder clips (from office depot) to clip rawhide around the shield & trim lock( B-100 is a size not brand)
Wait a week at least for it to try! If not all the way bone dry it might shirk and stress stitching
No really wait a week to stitch it needs to be bone dry !
Drill threw face of shield and threw the Rawhide 1 inch apart, small holes, big enough for a needle & thread. It will be like plastic and formed around the shield & trim lock/rope. I suggest you double you sewing thread, it last much longer
Sew the rawhide down through the shield face, do not go around shield edge ! Threw face of shield and back of shield and the rawhide.
YOU MUST treat rawhide with water sealant or it will get soft like cardboard when it get wet and cut from impact when fighting and not last !

This same way system works for aluminum (trim lock edging) shield and wood shields (rope ¾ edging). On wooden shields, normally shield is half inch base shield blank. A ¼-inch thick 2-inch wide frame/boarder is glued to shield to build up edge of shield up to ¾-inch, while most of shield is ½-inch thick. Rope is then used as shock absorber under rawhide. This kind of wood shield is a very light but strong and can be a long lasting wood shield

Uther

for added support, run a small bead of Silicone adhesive down the channel of the Trimlok then put it on the shield. The Silicone will stick and stay rubbery so it will flex with the shield.

When I said silicone I mean THIS : http://tinyurl.com/3dmne2e

We call it "evil peanut butter" because it has the color and consistency of peanut butter an the first time I used it i managed to get it all over the house, doorknobs, faucets, etc. I run a bead inside the trimlock and then a thicker bead along the back of the shield and caulk it into the trimlock.

I'll probably put up a photo tutorial in a week or so as I am making a new shield,..

Wait a week at least for it to try! If not all the way bone dry it might shirk and stress stitching
No really wait a week to stitch it needs to be bone dry !

This may be an UNDERESTIMATE. When I did mine I waited 2 weeks (pennsic!) and then took the clips off and let it sit for several more days. If you put it in a humid vs. dry place it will make a difference.

The first shield of mine we did we did NOT wait long enough... the rawhide shrinks and not only destroys the stiching but the holes in the rawhide drift from the holes in the aluminum... so it has to be completely re-drilled. This will make the edge of your aluminum swiss-cheese like.

I put leather straps around the shield riveted over the trim lock.

Duke Uther wrote:This is my write up for it

Rawhide edge

It lasts if maintained with water sealant for a several years. You might get a small blow threw on a corner or point after a year or two. We get a sheet of rawhide for about 80$ Tandy / leather factory store near us. This works better in my experience than chew toys last longer over all. Ovoid thin spots on the rawhide!

Use tin snips to cut it in to 2 and 3/4 inch strips. Cut to length as needed & overlap seams 2inchs aluminum shield. Wood shield strips 4inchs wide cut to length
Dropped in water for an hour or so it will get soft like cardboard but it will not tear
Put on your trim-lock on shield and cut to size Aluminum shield. For wood shield use rope same size as wood as shock absorber . Normally rope held in place by canvassing shield first on front with glue wrapping it over edge glued down
Use B-100 binder clips (from office depot) to clip rawhide around the shield & trim lock( B-100 is a size not brand)
Wait a week at least for it to try! If not all the way bone dry it might shirk and stress stitching
No really wait a week to stitch it needs to be bone dry !
Drill threw face of shield and threw the Rawhide 1 inch apart, small holes, big enough for a needle & thread. It will be like plastic and formed around the shield & trim lock/rope. I suggest you double you sewing thread, it last much longer
Sew the rawhide down through the shield face, do not go around shield edge ! Threw face of shield and back of shield and the rawhide.
YOU MUST treat rawhide with water sealant or it will get soft like cardboard when it get wet and cut from impact when fighting and not last !

This same way system works for aluminum (trim lock edging) shield and wood shields (rope ¾ edging). On wooden shields, normally shield is half inch base shield blank. A ¼-inch thick 2-inch wide frame/boarder is glued to shield to build up edge of shield up to ¾-inch, while most of shield is ½-inch thick. Rope is then used as shock absorber under rawhide. This kind of wood shield is a very light but strong and can be a long lasting wood shield

Uther

We tried it here in Kentucky and our constant humidity just didn't let the rawhide stay hard long.
Big gooey mess.
Even when treated.

Just remember, trimlock isn't permanent. I really hate it when someone's unmaintained shield has trimlock in which the metal core has split, and I lose a big chunk of weaopn on the raw aluminum edge.

Alex Baird wrote:

Broadway wrote:Jess, what did you use to split the hose?

Get a short piece of PVC a little larger inside dia. than the outside dia. of the tube. Cut a thin slot in the PVC, and stick a boxcutter blade in it so it protrudes enough to cut one side of the tube. Place cutter jig in a vice. Pull tube thru cutter.

Was about to Suggest something similar, I use the Orange Air hose they sell by the foot at the Big Box Stores. I drilled a Hole in a piece of wood and then used a saw to cut from the outside of the board to the hole and ran a screw in from the side. You put a Box Cutting Blade in the saw kerf and tighten the screw and it holds it in place and then just pull the hose through.

Prior to that I used these whick you can get a 5 pack for a couple dollars at the big box stores as well and they are much better than using a straight knife to cut tubing




Rey

Sir Omarad wrote:

Duke Uther wrote:This is my write up for it
We tried it here in Kentucky and our constant humidity just didn't let the rawhide stay hard long.
Big gooey mess.
Even when treated.

Although I have not tested in Kentucky humidity, I normally use Thomson’s water seal, like for decks. My squire uses brush on lacquer and adds a coat every 6-months to keep sealed. The seal coating needs to be tuched up from time to time with all the wear and tear from use, although it still may not work in humid Kentucky. This has held for us through at Pennsic weather

Appreciate all the good info on cutting the high pressure air hose.

I'm of the opinion that if you liquid nails that stuff to the edge of an aluminum blank, it lasts waaaay longer than trimlock. I've just always had a hard time cutting it.