FS: SS Burgonet -$100
FS: SS Burgonet -$100
I am selling a medium sized 14g stainless steel Burgonet styled helm for a mere $100 + shipping. This helmet has an inside measurement of 27", a side to side measurement of 8 1/4", a front to back measurement of 9 1/4", and a top to bottom measurement of 12â€
Hjalmar of Sognefjord
Squire to Duke Sir John The Bearkiller
Barony of Grey Niche, Kingdom of Glean Ahbann.
"True nobility is not measured by being superior to another, but rather by becoming superior to oneself."
Squire to Duke Sir John The Bearkiller
Barony of Grey Niche, Kingdom of Glean Ahbann.
"True nobility is not measured by being superior to another, but rather by becoming superior to oneself."
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Vermillion
- Archive Member
- Posts: 791
- Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 1:32 pm
- Location: West "by God" Virginia
Vermillion wrote:Hjalmr,
I have a brow circumfrence of24". If you think the helm will fit, I'll take it. My brain can't do all the math right now.
Send me the payment info.
Chris "Vermillion" Arrington
I am pretty sure it will fit you Chris -3" is about average for what people use for padding.
Info sent.
(^_^)
Hjalmar of Sognefjord
Squire to Duke Sir John The Bearkiller
Barony of Grey Niche, Kingdom of Glean Ahbann.
"True nobility is not measured by being superior to another, but rather by becoming superior to oneself."
Squire to Duke Sir John The Bearkiller
Barony of Grey Niche, Kingdom of Glean Ahbann.
"True nobility is not measured by being superior to another, but rather by becoming superior to oneself."
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mattmaus
- Archive Member
- Posts: 3556
- Joined: Fri Aug 02, 2002 1:01 am
- Location: Colorado Springs,CO
- Contact:
Hjalmr,
The brims on burgonets have a couple of drawbacks in regards to SCA combat (which the bar grill makes me assume this is for).
They get beat up very easily.
They chew up rattan.
It has always been my preference to weld a 1/4" bar to the edge of the brims.
Done well it approximates the look of a rolled edge. You can even file cut them to make it look like a roped edge.
It significantly improves the durability of the brim, and also presents a much duller edge to rattan.
An old crappy picture:
The eyes and bottom of the collar on this one were done the same way, but with 1/8" rod. The coller out of a desire for consistency, and the eyes because there was no way in hell I was going to try to roll the 12g on the buffe that tight.
The brims on burgonets have a couple of drawbacks in regards to SCA combat (which the bar grill makes me assume this is for).
They get beat up very easily.
They chew up rattan.
It has always been my preference to weld a 1/4" bar to the edge of the brims.
Done well it approximates the look of a rolled edge. You can even file cut them to make it look like a roped edge.
It significantly improves the durability of the brim, and also presents a much duller edge to rattan.
An old crappy picture:
The eyes and bottom of the collar on this one were done the same way, but with 1/8" rod. The coller out of a desire for consistency, and the eyes because there was no way in hell I was going to try to roll the 12g on the buffe that tight.
It looked better in my head....
Damnit.
Damnit.
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Vigmund Gunnarson
- Archive Member
- Posts: 105
- Joined: Sat May 24, 2008 9:31 am
- Location: Germany, Upper Franconia
Hey Mattmaus I have a question,
Does the rod hold up better than a rolled edge or does it have the same outcome?
I mean I understand that you wrote this, because hjamlr seems to not have rolled the edge on the brim - a very kewl helm btw
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I was just curious if a rolled edge being historically accurate would be the worse choice for SCA heavy or if welding a rod to it is just the simpler way and therefor your choice
(don´t misinterpret here: I think it´s a good way to make a sturdy yet also good looking helm by using "fake" rolled edges. I just have no experience with fighting in one of said helms yet.
And as I´m making one burgonet right at the moment I´m a little nervous if the work of rolling... well rather folding actually
... the edges of my eg brim was all boot )
Greetings Vigmund
Does the rod hold up better than a rolled edge or does it have the same outcome?
I mean I understand that you wrote this, because hjamlr seems to not have rolled the edge on the brim - a very kewl helm btw
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I was just curious if a rolled edge being historically accurate would be the worse choice for SCA heavy or if welding a rod to it is just the simpler way and therefor your choice
(don´t misinterpret here: I think it´s a good way to make a sturdy yet also good looking helm by using "fake" rolled edges. I just have no experience with fighting in one of said helms yet.
And as I´m making one burgonet right at the moment I´m a little nervous if the work of rolling... well rather folding actually
... the edges of my eg brim was all boot )
Greetings Vigmund
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mattmaus
- Archive Member
- Posts: 3556
- Joined: Fri Aug 02, 2002 1:01 am
- Location: Colorado Springs,CO
- Contact:
Um....
huh.
Well... I don't really know.
I have done the bar as a matter of convenience more than anything. With a mig welder and a steady hand, it's very easy.
Get the brim shaped how I like it, and secure it to the bench. Tack weld the end of the bar down in a corner, and go with it. As you weld it, the heat from the weld makes the bar as pliable as a wet noodle. So I weld with the right hand, and bend the bar around the edge with the left. It is more dificult to do this with the narrower bar, as it gets hotter faster, and starts to sag under it's own weight.
I fought for a while in the helmet above. I am a crappy fighter so I got hit a lot. The brim got hit a lot. It never budged. So I know that the bar work is at least sufficient.
At one point I was told that in one SCA Kingdom, any protrusion from a helmet must be at least 1/4". I figured with 1/4" bar, plus the thickness of the brim, that would be more than enough to meet that rule.
Wether a true roll would work better or not... I can't in any honesty say.
Master Maelmarden has commented to me that in his estimation a U shaped partial roll, seems to be more resistant to deformation than a full roll. He has been putting such channels on the rim of his cup hilts recently.
I may well be wrong, but I think Adam (Mater Magnus?) at White Mountain Armory rolls the edges of his kettle hat brims. I seem to recall that he rolls them around a solid bar. I do not know if he has a process in which he romoves the bar afterward using it to establish the shape, or if it stays there as part of the structure. Perhaps he could give you some more advice on the subject.
Without access to a welder, couching a bar inside a true roll is a pretty elegant solution to mounting a solid bar along the edge of a brim. I have personaly never had a lot of luck with that though, and find it easier to just roll without anything inside the hollow.
In any case, my advice as to what you SHOULD do would be based upon what you feel up to, and what you have access to and what you're working with. Like I said, with the eyes on the above burg, there was no way I was ever going to try rolling 12g that tight, in that tight a space, around that kind of curve, whether that stems from lack of skill, or lack of patience to do so. I have a wleder, so... it's easy for me to do it that way. If it's a 100 mile drive to the nearest place you can get it welded up, and you have to pay a shop rate of $50 an hour to get it done... that method suddenly becomes more problematic.
huh.
Well... I don't really know.
I have done the bar as a matter of convenience more than anything. With a mig welder and a steady hand, it's very easy.
Get the brim shaped how I like it, and secure it to the bench. Tack weld the end of the bar down in a corner, and go with it. As you weld it, the heat from the weld makes the bar as pliable as a wet noodle. So I weld with the right hand, and bend the bar around the edge with the left. It is more dificult to do this with the narrower bar, as it gets hotter faster, and starts to sag under it's own weight.
I fought for a while in the helmet above. I am a crappy fighter so I got hit a lot. The brim got hit a lot. It never budged. So I know that the bar work is at least sufficient.
At one point I was told that in one SCA Kingdom, any protrusion from a helmet must be at least 1/4". I figured with 1/4" bar, plus the thickness of the brim, that would be more than enough to meet that rule.
Wether a true roll would work better or not... I can't in any honesty say.
Master Maelmarden has commented to me that in his estimation a U shaped partial roll, seems to be more resistant to deformation than a full roll. He has been putting such channels on the rim of his cup hilts recently.
I may well be wrong, but I think Adam (Mater Magnus?) at White Mountain Armory rolls the edges of his kettle hat brims. I seem to recall that he rolls them around a solid bar. I do not know if he has a process in which he romoves the bar afterward using it to establish the shape, or if it stays there as part of the structure. Perhaps he could give you some more advice on the subject.
Without access to a welder, couching a bar inside a true roll is a pretty elegant solution to mounting a solid bar along the edge of a brim. I have personaly never had a lot of luck with that though, and find it easier to just roll without anything inside the hollow.
In any case, my advice as to what you SHOULD do would be based upon what you feel up to, and what you have access to and what you're working with. Like I said, with the eyes on the above burg, there was no way I was ever going to try rolling 12g that tight, in that tight a space, around that kind of curve, whether that stems from lack of skill, or lack of patience to do so. I have a wleder, so... it's easy for me to do it that way. If it's a 100 mile drive to the nearest place you can get it welded up, and you have to pay a shop rate of $50 an hour to get it done... that method suddenly becomes more problematic.
It looked better in my head....
Damnit.
Damnit.
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Vigmund Gunnarson
- Archive Member
- Posts: 105
- Joined: Sat May 24, 2008 9:31 am
- Location: Germany, Upper Franconia
I generally do weld a 1/4" bar to the brim of my helmets (especially my kettlehelms) and they seem to out last rolled edges -they are far easier and quicker to do too. Usually when you roll an edge, you leave the bar inside it -at least most people I know do that. For a historical helmet I would roll the edge, but for a cheap SCA helmet.....
There was a reason why I didn't add the bar to this helmet, although I can't remember why at this time...
I do appriciate the advice mattmaus (nice to know people are willing to help out others with nothing to gain) but I figured this trick out a couple years ago when I first discovered how much of a pain it was to roll edges...
(^_^)
There was a reason why I didn't add the bar to this helmet, although I can't remember why at this time...
I do appriciate the advice mattmaus (nice to know people are willing to help out others with nothing to gain) but I figured this trick out a couple years ago when I first discovered how much of a pain it was to roll edges...
(^_^)
Hjalmar of Sognefjord
Squire to Duke Sir John The Bearkiller
Barony of Grey Niche, Kingdom of Glean Ahbann.
"True nobility is not measured by being superior to another, but rather by becoming superior to oneself."
Squire to Duke Sir John The Bearkiller
Barony of Grey Niche, Kingdom of Glean Ahbann.
"True nobility is not measured by being superior to another, but rather by becoming superior to oneself."
mattmaus wrote:Hjalmr,
The brims on burgonets have a couple of drawbacks in regards to SCA combat (which the bar grill makes me assume this is for).
They get beat up very easily.
They chew up rattan.
It has always been my preference to weld a 1/4" bar to the edge of the brims.
Done well it approximates the look of a rolled edge. You can even file cut them to make it look like a roped edge.
It significantly improves the durability of the brim, and also presents a much duller edge to rattan.
An old crappy picture:
The eyes and bottom of the collar on this one were done the same way, but with 1/8" rod. The coller out of a desire for consistency, and the eyes because there was no way in hell I was going to try to roll the 12g on the buffe that tight.
Awesome helm! Want to sell it
We're going to hold on to him by the nose and we're going to kick him in the ass, We're going to kick the hell out of him all the time and we're going to go through him like crap through a goose.
Patton
Patton
I did not leave in the 1/4" steel rod in my SCA kettle helm brim construction.
I didn't think it was necessary.
Actually the rod was welded to my tool forming pipe thingy.
Then I get a report from a war where the back of the brim was dented in.
This sounds like an assassination attempt to me.
I will repair if needed.
But I ain't gonna replace it.
As an of topic: This is the best IMHO You-tube has to offer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTqlLKBK ... re=related
I didn't think it was necessary.
Actually the rod was welded to my tool forming pipe thingy.
Then I get a report from a war where the back of the brim was dented in.
This sounds like an assassination attempt to me.
I will repair if needed.
But I ain't gonna replace it.
As an of topic: This is the best IMHO You-tube has to offer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTqlLKBK ... re=related
Happy Metal Pounding
Yeah I folded the very first kettlehelm brim I made (without an inner bar)and I felt it wasn't going to survive too many SCA hits without it, Leaving the bar unside the brim was harder then just folding it over -so welding it became my norm...
To reply to the of topic: This is the best IMHO You-tube has to offer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2yv8aT0UFc
To reply to the of topic: This is the best IMHO You-tube has to offer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2yv8aT0UFc
Hjalmar of Sognefjord
Squire to Duke Sir John The Bearkiller
Barony of Grey Niche, Kingdom of Glean Ahbann.
"True nobility is not measured by being superior to another, but rather by becoming superior to oneself."
Squire to Duke Sir John The Bearkiller
Barony of Grey Niche, Kingdom of Glean Ahbann.
"True nobility is not measured by being superior to another, but rather by becoming superior to oneself."
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mattmaus
- Archive Member
- Posts: 3556
- Joined: Fri Aug 02, 2002 1:01 am
- Location: Colorado Springs,CO
- Contact:
Balin50 wrote:Well if you ever want to make another let me know
I cheated like mad on that one. I'd originaly built it for me, and I don't like monkeying with stuff later on, so the Buffe is welded shut on the inside.
While it would have been cool to have it functional, I was in a hurry when I built it, and this was easier. Also... much less maintanence than all the fiddly pins and springs and stuff needed to make it work, and stay shut.
It looked better in my head....
Damnit.
Damnit.