The Armour Archive

Im finishing up my houpplande....all hand sewn.


Ive learned a lot about the range of nuances involved, particularly the collar.

Granted there are other variations such as the open 'V' Dam Chiney Piece style.....
http://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalar ... /lightbox/


However for the true 360 tulip style neck, Im curious as to what the historical folks think about the idea of a six piece collar: half of a back piece, a side piece, and a front piece. The cut of the side with a nice flared out top arch/curve would seem to allow the collar to maintain the 'tuliping' as it rolls around to the front like we see in so many depictions:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalar ... 482899096/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalar ... 482899440/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalar ... 482085461/

EDIT: I should add that most of the houpplande patterns Ive seen show a single piece for the neck or a four piece neck, ie two back, two front. The problem with this pattern is that it does not allow for a very good tuliping affect as it rounds to the front, especially if you want to close up the collar in front as we see in the second collection of images. So I am suggesting inserting a middle piece on the side of the neck (with flared out top) to help maintain the tulip shape as the collar rolls around to the front of the neck.

WOW, check out this site

http://www.themourners.org/

I don't have a strong opinion either way (since there are many ways to skin the cat), but when you try it, please post pictures and tell us what you think after that.

BTW, when you say "tuliped", I am confused. I think of a tulip as a flower that closes to the inside. The images you've posted show the collars flaring to the outside. Can you clarify what you mean? Thanks.

Tailoress wrote:I don't have a strong opinion either way (since there are many ways to skin the cat), but when you try it, please post pictures and tell us what you think after that.

BTW, when you say "tuliped", I am confused. I think of a tulip as a flower that closes to the inside. The images you've posted show the collars flaring to the outside. Can you clarify what you mean? Thanks.

Ah youre right Tasha.... well I mean collars that flare outward.

I seem to have found five distinct types of flared out collars.

--those that angle inward and then roll out or flare out
--those that angle upward or outward and then flare out
--those that appear very vertical, stiff showing less flair bit with a sudden roll*
--those that taper to a point at the opening, and angle outward
--those that seem to descend very low under the jaw and become nearly straight up and down, but do flare out on the sides/back.


* I suspect that some of these collars might have been slightly stuffed to help billow them out a bit. Ill have to try this.


Various thoughts:

A still interlining can be useful provided its structured.

The biggest problem Ive found is tension and tugging to close the collar. This is why I propose a flared out middle piece (meaning the top cut is flared out) to help ensure there is more material on top of the collar, giving the collar every reason to naturally flare over, fold over etc


I want very much to make another houpplande after this one...one of those absurdly noble, fully draping, totally impractical kinds. I think I will make this for a female mannequin.

Tasha

I went ahead and made the new collar with the six piece approach. Its turning out great---so far. Im working on the lining now and will be attaching it tonight.

It maintains a nice curved flow thought cinching or tension issues that I was having with the four piece approach.

Pics coming...