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Viking ship coatings?

Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2002 5:41 am
by David deKunstenaar
What was the bottom of viking longships covered with? Pitch,oils, paint? The recient talk about "rusting stainless steel" got me to wondering. What would you use to protect wood from rotting from exposure to the sea?

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Arti

Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2002 10:13 am
by JJ Shred
I believe they were made of 'green' white oak lashed together and caulked with pitch-soaked linen rags, although Atli could answer better than me.

Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2002 12:24 pm
by David deKunstenaar
Bascot, that is the description that I've always read for the construction. But what about some kind of a coating? What keeps the wood from turning into water logged drift wood? I know that most of the smaller craft were hauled out of the water every night and most of the travel involved only short "hops". But what about some of the longer trips across open waters. What about some of the larger ships? I just wondered how they kept the effects of salt water from distroying them. I actually woke up at 4 am wondering this, this morning.
Arti

Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2002 6:51 pm
by Otto von Teich
David , its seems I too read about pitch being used. This may not have any bearing,but Doug Key and his dad once told me that when wagon wheels dried out, they shrunk, and the spokes became loose. What they would do was through the wheel in the pond for a few days,the wood would swell causing everything to tighten up again.It could be that being in the water might actually swell the planks filling the gaps and thus waterproof the wood.I dont know what the effect of the salt would be though.Just some more Krazy ideas to kick around LOL....Otto

Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2002 11:49 pm
by Guest
Pitch was used as a preservative both above and below the water line.

There are three basic problems:

Stuff that fouls (grows on) your vessel, such as barnacles, slime, seaweed, etc.

Stuff that rots your vessel, usually fungus, causing dry rot.

Stuff that eats your vessel, specifically toredos (sp?) (shipworms).

In the southern latitudes, and especially in the tropics, all three work at a furious rate. However, with Viking ships, you are blessedly free of almost all of these. The Baltic is very brackish (high fresh water to salt ratio) and does not support shipworms. That's why the Vasa was in such good shape when they found her. The North Sea and North Atlantic are saltier, but still cold, which also slows down the buggers a bit. A method used down on the Chesapeake was to anchor up in a fresh water creek for a week and kill off the shipworms.

Dry rot also thrives in warm, moist conditions. Longships are, essentially, big open boats. There are no cabins or holds to keep in the dampness. Water comes aboard, but things dry out. It's fresh water that's the problem. Dry rot doesn't live in salt water, so below the waterline it's not a problem. Decked wooden vessels used to have small compartments along the hull/deck joint to put rock salt in to stop the rot.

Barnacles and fuzzy stuff just slow you down. You have to scrape them off the hull, but for the most part it's no big deal. They, also, do not thrive in colder waters. Beyond that, it's no big deal to careen these vessels for a quickie scraping, caulking, or other repairs. (Trust me, I've done it!) Add to that a short season and pulling her out for most of the winter and the need for bottom coatings is minimal.

Smaller vessels required no caulking. Larger vessels were traditionally caulked with pitch and cow hair, but to add to what Bascot said, one find had been caulked with most of a woman's dress, which was a wonderful find for the folks studying clothing, and the sort of thing that leaves me wondering: "THIS most be a good story!"

Anyway, the real fun and games were further south, in the Mediterranean. There they had all of the problems and coated their bottoms, at least by the Age of Discovery, with a mixture of white lead, tallow and ground glass. I would suppose frequent scraping and replacement was the order of the day. Once you were away from you harbor facilities and in the Caribbean, you were on your own, and ships literally fell apart. Your great 17th through 19th century wooden warships were, literally, rot-factories, and had to undergo almost a complete re-build on a regular basis.

In the 18th century, the British discovered that copper sheathing stopped shipworms and just about anything else. In the early 20th century folks on the Chesapeake used to mix Paris Green (arsenic) into their bottom paint. For a while in the 1970s tributyl (sp?) tin was great stuff, until it was noticed that it killed everything near the boats. It's now restricted to the USN, and when last I heard, even they won't use it. So now we're back to copper compounds. Most of the vessels from Scandinavia that we saw up at L'Anse aux Meadows in 2000 used no bottom paint whatever, but they also seem to have been mostly dry berthed.

Just a note: A couple of decades back the Maryland Dove's shore staff, against the advise of the Captain, skipped the bottom paint for a year to save money. The shipworms ate their way through most of the oak bottom planking. My father was called in as part of the inspection team and said that parts of it looked like a kitchen sponge. The repairs exceeded the cost of hauling, scraping and painting by many times. Ironically, the original Dove was lost at sea and never heard from again. There is some indication that the loss may have been due to shipworm damage!


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Full time civil servant, part time blacksmith, and seasonal Viking ship captain.

Visit your National Parks: www.nps.gov

Go viking: www.wam.umd.edu/~eowyn/Longship/

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Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2002 11:50 pm
by JJ Shred
You missed the point - white oak - it is what barrels are made of. It is different than other woods in that it absorbs water, swells and holds tight as long as it is kept wet, but if allowed to dry, tends to split.
I have a half a dozen oak barrels, and you have to soak each one completely submerged for several days before they are water-tight. No pitch, wax or parafin is necessary. When they dry out they shrink and fall apart.

Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2002 11:47 am
by David deKunstenaar
Bascot, Capt A,

The two post do not contridict. White Oak does swell, but if we are talking about green wood, then it will not swell as much, (Did they use green wood?) So, I guess that it will only serve to tighten up the ship. The fact that it is built with over lapping boards and not butted like a barrrel will solve a lot of swelling, drying out problems, (is the proper term clinker style?). I suspect that the pitch till act like rubber seals between the boards.
Mostly I was wondering about the effect of the salt water on the wood. I had not thought about those other problems, and now I see that they can be even worse. I did not realize that oak was so resistant to rot, and that the weather would help so much!

So once built, about how long did a ship that would go back and forth from Iceland say, stay in service?
Would they have to do anything different when they would do a lot of sailing around southern climes?

Arti

Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2002 9:04 pm
by Guest
Longevity varied. There are some indications that the Oseberg Ship was well over 50 years old. Many of the finds show repairs or rebuilding. The sixeren (sp?) (six oared vessels) still used in the 20th c. in the Shetland Islands for fishing (and thus in a hard daily environment) were expected to last 12 years. It also makes sense to use your most worn-out ship as a burial ship. We should always keep in mind that burials or blockades were special circumstances (see "expendable", below).

As lapstrake vessels work, they get "nail sick". The holes around the rivets enlarge, and you have to punch out the old rivets and put in slightly thicker ones. Just tightening most of the rivets below the waterline on the Fyrdraca in '99 took several months of weekend work parties. Also, the strakes (planks) wear against each other. As the vessels age they take more caulking. The Fyrdraca was built in '79, and her maintenance is taking more and more time. When, no matter how much you tighten and caulk you rely more and more on the bilge pump (or the Bilgemaster and his/her bailer), it's time for a new ship.

What the Vikings did when they went into thhe Med, I'm not sure. It takes a bit for things to really go to Hel, so it may not have mattered. Also remember that these vessels were expendable. Just like the junker car that got me to and from college (a '61 Chevy) you replaced them as best suited the circumstances. Twenty years ago the Fyrdraca swelled up tight as a drum (with no caulk) in a few hours. These days sitting a week flooded to the thwarts doesn't do all that much.

In the U.S. white oak is preferred for boatbuilding, but is not a European species. (Red oak will rot in a marine environment if you look at it sideways!) The big 90'+ warship found at Roskild Fjord was built of oak... Irish oak! Further north along the Norwegian coast, pine was used of necessity. The genius of our ancestors was, in part, knowing which woods were good for what. The knowledge is still out there, but it's no longer common. Prying it loose is part of the fun.

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Full time civil servant, part time blacksmith, and seasonal Viking ship captain.

Visit your National Parks: www.nps.gov

Go viking: www.wam.umd.edu/~eowyn/Longship/

Hit hot iron: www.anvilfire.com