Sallet visor
Sallet visor
I have some experiance at armoring and have made a lot of pieces over the years, but I am at a total loss for how to get the shape of a sallet visor right. I can make one that essentially "looks" right, but the form is not true to the orignals.
I recently looked a piece from the Wallace Collection that is at our local museum. I have studied the shape, but I still cannot figure out what technique to use to get the part of the visor that juts out at the lower edge of the ye slit, to sit flat and still get the proper curved shape in profile.
Here is my technique so far: I have cut a simple slit with a jigsaw. I don't cut a piece of metal out, rather I just cut a line. Then I start pushing out the lower piece by hammering over an anvil. Then, I have bent the metal back in at a 90 degree angle to try to form the flat piece. The shape is never right.
I have noticed on all of the originals, one the sides of the visors, the metal is pushed out further at the bottom edge of the eye slot. I can't figure out how to do this and I have a feeling this might be some of my problem. I think this is likely the key.
Hopefully my descriptions are not too vague or hard to understand. Has anyone made an accurate reporoduction of a period sallet visor that is willing to share their technique? I don't need patterns or anything, just help on how to make the visor (though I wouldn't turn down patterns).
I recently looked a piece from the Wallace Collection that is at our local museum. I have studied the shape, but I still cannot figure out what technique to use to get the part of the visor that juts out at the lower edge of the ye slit, to sit flat and still get the proper curved shape in profile.
Here is my technique so far: I have cut a simple slit with a jigsaw. I don't cut a piece of metal out, rather I just cut a line. Then I start pushing out the lower piece by hammering over an anvil. Then, I have bent the metal back in at a 90 degree angle to try to form the flat piece. The shape is never right.
I have noticed on all of the originals, one the sides of the visors, the metal is pushed out further at the bottom edge of the eye slot. I can't figure out how to do this and I have a feeling this might be some of my problem. I think this is likely the key.
Hopefully my descriptions are not too vague or hard to understand. Has anyone made an accurate reporoduction of a period sallet visor that is willing to share their technique? I don't need patterns or anything, just help on how to make the visor (though I wouldn't turn down patterns).
From my inexperience i can say:
Most pattern for the visor are in 2 pieces this will resolve the problem you have.
If you want to make it in one piece you should not cut the eyeslot at all, instead you need to raise the visor, probably annealing it two or three times to reach the right deep. Only when the shape is right you will open the eyeslot.
Most pattern for the visor are in 2 pieces this will resolve the problem you have.
If you want to make it in one piece you should not cut the eyeslot at all, instead you need to raise the visor, probably annealing it two or three times to reach the right deep. Only when the shape is right you will open the eyeslot.
-
- Archive Member
- Posts: 367
- Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2003 1:01 am
- Location: Winnipeg
-
- Archive Member
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 2:01 am
- Location: Southern California
- Contact:
I decided to draw up some diagrams of the method I use. I believe it is the same as Mr. Ramirez was discribing. I think the pictures will be self explanitory but feel free to post or email me if any clairification is needed.
[img]http://www.ageofarmour.com/education/images/salletform.jpg[/img]
Hope this helps,
William
[img]http://www.ageofarmour.com/education/images/salletform.jpg[/img]
Hope this helps,
William
-
- Archive Member
- Posts: 1591
- Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2000 1:01 am
- Location: Suffolk, UK
Great illustration of the process William. Thanks for sharing it.
J
J
<a href="http://www.international-arms-and-armour-conferences.com"><img src="http://www.international-arms-and-armou ... r.gif"></a>
William Hurt,
That is the best instructional illustration I have seen connected with this craft. I think line drawings as you've used are much more effective than photographs in describing technique. Between that and your photo essay last month you have done quite a lot to educate people on some advanced techniques. Very fine job.
Adair Orr
That is the best instructional illustration I have seen connected with this craft. I think line drawings as you've used are much more effective than photographs in describing technique. Between that and your photo essay last month you have done quite a lot to educate people on some advanced techniques. Very fine job.
Adair Orr
- Sasha
- Archive Member
- Posts: 9362
- Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2000 1:01 am
- Location: State of permanent bemusement
William, clearest and niftiest technical/line drawing I have ever seen in this field. Bloody well done.
I can't draw for nuts and am deeply envious of you. You just turned what I would try and explain in ten pages of text and 6 photos and made it clearer with one A4 scribble.
I would draw a halo and little trumpeting cherubs around the cancave ended T-stake though, just to highlight how useful one is in the armouring workshop (despite how few people have them).
Sasha
I can't draw for nuts and am deeply envious of you. You just turned what I would try and explain in ten pages of text and 6 photos and made it clearer with one A4 scribble.
I would draw a halo and little trumpeting cherubs around the cancave ended T-stake though, just to highlight how useful one is in the armouring workshop (despite how few people have them).
Sasha
"Work like you were living in the early days of a better nation"
- Magmaforge
- Archive Member
- Posts: 3281
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2000 2:01 am
- Location: sweet home Chicago, Rome of the 21st c.
Mr. William Hurt,
that is a fantastic line drawing. I know that Aaron Toman has at his disposal an immense ability to clearly sketch armour from his experience as an artist. Few others do, as the responses here can indicate. It would be an immesurable service to the armouring world if you would continue to do line drawings like this, possibly in the publication of a book like "The Sketchbook Armourer" or something. Thanks for sharing!
Oscar Erkenswick, aka Mag =)
that is a fantastic line drawing. I know that Aaron Toman has at his disposal an immense ability to clearly sketch armour from his experience as an artist. Few others do, as the responses here can indicate. It would be an immesurable service to the armouring world if you would continue to do line drawings like this, possibly in the publication of a book like "The Sketchbook Armourer" or something. Thanks for sharing!
Oscar Erkenswick, aka Mag =)
-
- Archive Member
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 2:01 am
- Location: Southern California
- Contact:
Thank you all,
I hope I understood what type of visor you were refering to PaulyP. Of course there is a lot of work not explained there such as the visor will tend to widen out from side to side as you form so it will need to be reworked from time to time during the process. Also a nice big rebated chisel stake is a must for adding the centre ridge. Just a few months ago I saw a large jack hammer chisel bit at home depo for $30 or so that works great.
I have been concidering writing a few books on armour making for several years now. My spelling skill is atrotio... attrotious... bad. My grammer is horrible and is bad too I also worry about putting out bad historical information. What I have been thinking of doing is making CD roms with photos, text and video showing the procedures I used to make a specific componant of armour. I would like to show both the use os a few modern tools (Burr king and band saw, no presses) and the historical method as best I understand. I was thinking along the lines of the Knee tutorial but continue to the full legs and in more detail. I would also like to include printable patterns. If they sold decently at... about $10 or so I may do more. I would hate to even charge but it would help off set the long periods I go between getting paid on long time projects.
If you all think there is an interest I will try to start on it in the next few months. If so what do you think would be a good project to start with?
Thank you for your input all,
William
I hope I understood what type of visor you were refering to PaulyP. Of course there is a lot of work not explained there such as the visor will tend to widen out from side to side as you form so it will need to be reworked from time to time during the process. Also a nice big rebated chisel stake is a must for adding the centre ridge. Just a few months ago I saw a large jack hammer chisel bit at home depo for $30 or so that works great.
I have been concidering writing a few books on armour making for several years now. My spelling skill is atrotio... attrotious... bad. My grammer is horrible and is bad too I also worry about putting out bad historical information. What I have been thinking of doing is making CD roms with photos, text and video showing the procedures I used to make a specific componant of armour. I would like to show both the use os a few modern tools (Burr king and band saw, no presses) and the historical method as best I understand. I was thinking along the lines of the Knee tutorial but continue to the full legs and in more detail. I would also like to include printable patterns. If they sold decently at... about $10 or so I may do more. I would hate to even charge but it would help off set the long periods I go between getting paid on long time projects.
If you all think there is an interest I will try to start on it in the next few months. If so what do you think would be a good project to start with?
Thank you for your input all,
William
-
- Archive Member
- Posts: 26725
- Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2001 1:01 am
- Location: Port Hueneme CA USA
William, the only thing better than armourcake is a good recipe for armourcake. Huzzah and Vivat!
[edit to add] And the only thing better than a good recipe for armourcake is a whole cookbook full of 'em. I'd say there's a very great deal of interest in such a book -- I'd get one, that is for sure, either paper or the CD-rom you're mulling over.
[edit to add] And the only thing better than a good recipe for armourcake is a whole cookbook full of 'em. I'd say there's a very great deal of interest in such a book -- I'd get one, that is for sure, either paper or the CD-rom you're mulling over.
"The Minstrel Boy to the war is gone..."
-
- Archive Member
- Posts: 2199
- Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2000 1:01 am
- Location: newark,ny,14513
- Contact:
T stake mod
I'm going to modify my T stake this weekend, never thought of it, thanks!
The artisan formerly known as Willing Pell, then Juan Santell and then Willing Pell again. Hey, Prince could do it, why not me?
William Hurt III wrote:Thank you all,
I have been concidering writing a few books on armour making for several years now. My spelling skill is atrotio... attrotious... bad. My grammer is horrible and is bad too I also worry about putting out bad historical information. What I have been thinking of doing is making CD roms with photos, text and video showing the procedures I used to make a specific componant of armour. I would like to show both the use os a few modern tools (Burr king and band saw, no presses) and the historical method as best I understand. I was thinking along the lines of the Knee tutorial but continue to the full legs and in more detail. I would also like to include printable patterns. If they sold decently at... about $10 or so I may do more. I would hate to even charge but it would help off set the long periods I go between getting paid on long time projects.
If you all think there is an interest I will try to start on it in the next few months. If so what do you think would be a good project to start with?
Thank you for your input all,
William
I am so there. Looked at your website and about fell over when I looked at the german gothic suit. There's more gorgeous stuff in ONE gauntlet than most rigs have all over. My hat off to you sir.
I am extremely interested in anything you decided to put togeather. Your sketch of the sallet visor was very very useful and, well I can't really add anymore to what's already been said I guess.
Anything you contribute would be greatly appreciated by many I'll wager.
Hydrogen (H)
Stupidity (SU)
The two most common elements in the universe.
Stupidity (SU)
The two most common elements in the universe.
- Jean Paul de Sens
- Archive Member
- Posts: 3647
- Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2000 1:01 am
- Location: Stillwater, OK 74075
- Contact:
-
- Archive Member
- Posts: 162
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2003 2:01 am
- Location: Sault Ste Marie, Ontario
-
- Archive Member
- Posts: 459
- Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2003 1:01 am
- Location: New Mexico, USA
Count me in too. My wife paid full retail for TOMAR and I still think it's a good deal. A publication with drawings like yours and pics of the same processes side by side would be worth as much with half the words!
You seem to have the capacity to take the next step beyond TOMAR (the best book I know of for learning to make armor) into more detailed and delicate work without increasing the learning curve much. Your drawings seem to be that good.
I'll buy the first copy I can, sight unseen and without review, if you include side by side pics and drawings.
Angus (Matt itrw)
You seem to have the capacity to take the next step beyond TOMAR (the best book I know of for learning to make armor) into more detailed and delicate work without increasing the learning curve much. Your drawings seem to be that good.
I'll buy the first copy I can, sight unseen and without review, if you include side by side pics and drawings.
Angus (Matt itrw)
- Padrig
- Archive Member
- Posts: 6701
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 1:01 am
- Location: Quebec, Canada
- Contact:
William, forget about words. As Sasha said, you’ve described a hard technique with a few drawings when most people could not do it even with a few thousands words. A sketchbook would be more than enough. I know I would buy it in a heartbeat and pay extra for not having to read.
Thanks again for sharing with us.
Pad
Thanks again for sharing with us.
Pad
-
- Archive Member
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 2:01 am
- Location: Southern California
- Contact:
Wow thanks all. Looks like I will have to start working on a book then. I have a few orders that will keep my pretty busy until July but will try to get on it as soon as I have some free time.
Jean Paul, I actualy have 2 different stakes but drew them as one as I should have made it hehe. I use the centre valley stake for shrinking the ankles of greaves. It works like the one on the end of the stake but since I seem to have to put a lot of force behind the hits I use the depression directly over the upright to maximize the hammer strike. I use it for a lot of things. You can see it used for poleyn wings here http://www.ageofarmour.com/education/wing.html . Both greaves ankles and the sallet visor can be done on the horn of an anvil but it is much easier for me on the stake.
I made the stake out of 1018 mild, 3" dia. bar stock with a 1 1/2" square bar welded as the upright. I ground the valley with my belt grinder. It was tireing but didn't take all that long. It would be better out of hardened tool steel but this one has served me for 11 years or so with minimal wear.
Thanks again all,
William
Jean Paul, I actualy have 2 different stakes but drew them as one as I should have made it hehe. I use the centre valley stake for shrinking the ankles of greaves. It works like the one on the end of the stake but since I seem to have to put a lot of force behind the hits I use the depression directly over the upright to maximize the hammer strike. I use it for a lot of things. You can see it used for poleyn wings here http://www.ageofarmour.com/education/wing.html . Both greaves ankles and the sallet visor can be done on the horn of an anvil but it is much easier for me on the stake.
I made the stake out of 1018 mild, 3" dia. bar stock with a 1 1/2" square bar welded as the upright. I ground the valley with my belt grinder. It was tireing but didn't take all that long. It would be better out of hardened tool steel but this one has served me for 11 years or so with minimal wear.
Thanks again all,
William
- white mountain armoury
- Archive Member
- Posts: 10538
- Joined: Sun Aug 20, 2000 1:01 am
- Location: the Taiga
Thank you for that great bit of info, realy fantastic. I think people would be happy to purchase dvd roms, books etc on techniques like this.
So often less is more, as others have said to fine simple renderings offer more valuable info than any amounts of words could.
very very nice.
So often less is more, as others have said to fine simple renderings offer more valuable info than any amounts of words could.
very very nice.
I prefer kittens
- St. George
- Archive Member
- Posts: 2578
- Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2003 2:01 am
- Location: Charlotte, NC
Corey (or should I say William?),
Seriously, if you just put together a sketchbook of "how too's" for each part of armor (helm tops, legs, bascinets, armets, etc) like you have done here, and then just xeroxed copies of it, I would buy a copy. You could charge me $50-100 and I would still buy a copy of just the xeroxed pages full of sketches/instructions. You wouldn't even have to pay to bind it, I would do that myself. I think everyone else here would too.
George
Seriously, if you just put together a sketchbook of "how too's" for each part of armor (helm tops, legs, bascinets, armets, etc) like you have done here, and then just xeroxed copies of it, I would buy a copy. You could charge me $50-100 and I would still buy a copy of just the xeroxed pages full of sketches/instructions. You wouldn't even have to pay to bind it, I would do that myself. I think everyone else here would too.
George
DukeAlaric wrote:Corey (or should I say William?),
Seriously, if you just put together a sketchbook of "how too's" for each part of armor (helm tops, legs, bascinets, armets, etc) like you have done here, and then just xeroxed copies of it, I would buy a copy. You could charge me $50-100 and I would still buy a copy of just the xeroxed pages full of sketches/instructions. You wouldn't even have to pay to bind it, I would do that myself. I think everyone else here would too.
George
Nods like a bobble head doll !!!
- Otto von Teich
- Archive Member
- Posts: 17440
- Joined: Thu Nov 09, 2000 2:01 am
- Location: The Great State of Texas.
- Otto von Teich
- Archive Member
- Posts: 17440
- Joined: Thu Nov 09, 2000 2:01 am
- Location: The Great State of Texas.
-
- Archive Member
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 2:01 am
- Location: Southern California
- Contact:
Well as you all have inspired me so, I have decided to start working on the book. After seeing the input and some serious concideration I think I will make a print version my goal. I don't believe having full size patterns will work well in book form but I do intend to include scale drawings of them. I expect the price to be a sizable amount more now that I have done a little research into publishing costs. I will, however, try to keep the price down to be affordable on an armourers wage hehe.
I would like to thank you all for the encouragemnet and inspirations. I will try to keep you posted on the progress and to the full subject matter as I get further along.
To address some questions posted here;
George - 'ell, you can call me Susan if it makes you 'appy. LOL Just make sure any checks say "William Hurt"
Otto - The "KD" helmet is spoken for. Thank you for your complement.
Alcyoneus - Sorry but my old apprentice called "dibs" so he gets it.
JPS - Luckyer isn't a word according to Google but should be if you ask me. It's great having you in the shop. Now get off the computer, drive over and make those 50 elbows! (And they say India is the only place to find cheap labour)
I would like to thank you all for the encouragemnet and inspirations. I will try to keep you posted on the progress and to the full subject matter as I get further along.
To address some questions posted here;
George - 'ell, you can call me Susan if it makes you 'appy. LOL Just make sure any checks say "William Hurt"
Otto - The "KD" helmet is spoken for. Thank you for your complement.
Alcyoneus - Sorry but my old apprentice called "dibs" so he gets it.
JPS - Luckyer isn't a word according to Google but should be if you ask me. It's great having you in the shop. Now get off the computer, drive over and make those 50 elbows! (And they say India is the only place to find cheap labour)
If I had a wish...;o)
William, if you publish a book, I´d like to see the following:
-a hand on how to construct a pattern properly
-recommendations for tools and their weight, if possible metric, too;o)
-make the volume accessible via amazon in Europe for the unlucky that haven´t got a cedit card
I´d spend the same money as I did for TOMAR and would be happy...even happier, when more reasonable, but nonetheless happy anyway.
Regards
Ivo
William, if you publish a book, I´d like to see the following:
-a hand on how to construct a pattern properly
-recommendations for tools and their weight, if possible metric, too;o)
-make the volume accessible via amazon in Europe for the unlucky that haven´t got a cedit card
I´d spend the same money as I did for TOMAR and would be happy...even happier, when more reasonable, but nonetheless happy anyway.
Regards
Ivo
- Old_bear
- Archive Member
- Posts: 292
- Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2003 1:01 am
- Location: Milwaukee, WI, USA
- Contact:
William,
That was a very nicely done techniques drawing. Here's the tip to all the aspiring armourers and crafts people; keep a sketch book, practice drawing the armour or whatever piece tou want to make. The process trains your eyes to see better the nuances of the pieces, to visualize the forms in your head and your hands motor control to move the way you want it to.
BTW, if you are looking for a way to produce small run production of books, try cafepress - http://www.cafepress.com/cp/info/help/learn_book.aspx - they are now offering books printed on demand. This may be a semi resonable way to get the initial information out there. As I remember their prices weren't too bad.
Aaron / Valerius
That was a very nicely done techniques drawing. Here's the tip to all the aspiring armourers and crafts people; keep a sketch book, practice drawing the armour or whatever piece tou want to make. The process trains your eyes to see better the nuances of the pieces, to visualize the forms in your head and your hands motor control to move the way you want it to.
BTW, if you are looking for a way to produce small run production of books, try cafepress - http://www.cafepress.com/cp/info/help/learn_book.aspx - they are now offering books printed on demand. This may be a semi resonable way to get the initial information out there. As I remember their prices weren't too bad.
Aaron / Valerius