Lead dishing bowl ?!?

Ancelin · Post by **Ancelin** » Tue Jan 16, 2001 4:23 pm

While surfing around the Net I found this link:
http://perso.club-internet.fr/bkw/page22.html

I know, I know, most of you don't speak French but the idea is simple : making a dishing form by pouring melted lead on a round shaped plaster cast.

Do you think it is a good idea?

I don't know if lead is expensive. Wood is less expensive but lead is probably more solid. A steel bowl (i.e. oxy tank bottom) is more resilient but a big lead block might not be ringing like a bell when you hit it.

Just an idea....

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Ancelin

Â«Memento finisÂ»

Prince Of Darkmoor · Post by **Prince Of Darkmoor** » Tue Jan 16, 2001 4:41 pm

I just got an oxy tank bottom from a fantastic person (Hi Tom!) and plan on solving the ringing problem by drilling a hole in the sides of the tank and spraying that expanding foam crap inside it. It should deaden the ring quite a bit.

I can speak for the effectiveness of an oxy tank in regards to dishing now.

Melchior · Post by **Melchior** » Tue Jan 16, 2001 4:54 pm

If my memory is right Brian Price talks about using lead in his book. It is a good idea. The only problem is the weight.
About the Oxy bottle bottom. It sounds like it is attached to a base. If possible fill with sand. It works best.

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Melchior Erasmi von Frankfurt
AKA Neil Erasmus
In Service to the Dream

Sasha · Post by **Sasha** » Tue Jan 16, 2001 5:05 pm

Lead is a "dead" impact material.

You do not need to form it. Just smelt a block of lead into a wooden box and then pound on it a bit when it has set and cooled. It will act like a heavy sandbag.
The dish will form and the work will dish. Easily.

Two problems. You will be smearing lead onto something that you will later be welding (even if you do not weld, you are still putting lead into the air and breathing it)

The dish keeps deforming....so every blow makes the dish a little deeper. Beuatifully smooth....but deeper.
I like using my steel dishing form because it gives me consistency. The twentieth helm half is going to be the same as the first. Lead will not do that.

For me, dishing into lead is like dishing on the flat of an anvil. It can be done but it just isn't worth it for commercial work because there are better and more efficient methods available.

Sasha
Riverforge

Sasha · Post by **Sasha** » Tue Jan 16, 2001 5:13 pm

PoD.
Definately fill the bottom of your dish wwith sand rather then expando-foam.
The foam will not do much to deaden the noise...just take the top octave off the ringing. The saound will turn the "TING!!!" into a "THud."

Oh yeah....lead is useful in doing repouse type effects in steel armour. Just thought I would mention that

Sasha

Garridan · Post by **Garridan** » Tue Jan 16, 2001 6:08 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Prince Of Darkmoor:
(Hi Tom!)<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

hi! (what oxy tank???)

I plan to do something similar, but for a different reason. I plan to fill an oxy tank bottom with shot, or something similar, and weld it closed. I, living in an apartment, have no concrete floor to put things on, so its either very noisy (countertop), or bounces (carpet). So, just like a deadblow hammer, the dishing bowl will stay relatively still when hit... and it'll be quieter. Another idea to quiet a dishing bowl is to rivet steel bands around it, or even wrap large rubber bands around it.
--tom

Mykaru · Post by **Mykaru** » Tue Jan 16, 2001 10:21 pm

I wouldn't recommend it. Wood will work much better for you in the long run. OTH Sasha mentions lead for repousse work. There a good lead plate is indispensible. I used to use one as backing for fluting as well. Be certain to follow all standard precautions when dealing with lead.

Mac · Post by **Mac** » Tue Jan 16, 2001 10:51 pm

For variety, try a tin block instead of lead. It works as well as lead for just about every thing, and beter than lead for decorative stampings. Its also beter for you.

Sasha · Post by **Sasha** » Wed Jan 17, 2001 12:44 am

If I could find large quantities of pure tin lying around I would go back to smelting bronze and casting my own fittings and plates.

It is a damn good idea though...and ought to work if I can get the tin.

thanks

Sasha
Riverforge

Galileo · Post by **Galileo** » Wed Jan 17, 2001 12:49 am

Tin also has a lower melting temp

Armour Guy · Post by **Armour Guy** » Wed Jan 17, 2001 1:21 am

I use lead with frequency - Setting copper and brass round-headed rivets. I use lead so that the heads don't deform. I have about a 5lb chunk of lead that I melt into a big ladle and let cool - I get a flat side and a round side - I then set the lead block on the anvil, flatten off the rounded end, and set rivets ad nauseum. When the lead gets too messed up to keep going, I'll re-melt it.

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~AG
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