Please take a look at my Wisby #3 thumb articulation.

[Steve S.]

I'm working on a set of Wisby #3 gauntlets, and I have never done metal-on-metal articulations before.

I have domed the joints as the artwork indicates, and similar to what I see in this thread here:

http://forums.armourarchive.org/phpBB2/ ... fb6906c117

But I'm not sure if I have it. I'd hate to go ahead and punch holes and rivet them and not have them work.

Can you articulation experts take a look at my pictures and see what you think? Thanks.

http://www.forth-armoury.com/photo_gall ... ntlets.htm

http://www.forth-armoury.com/photo_gall ... 010295.JPG
http://www.forth-armoury.com/photo_gall ... 010296.JPG
http://www.forth-armoury.com/photo_gall ... 010297.JPG
http://www.forth-armoury.com/photo_gall ... 010298.JPG
http://www.forth-armoury.com/photo_gall ... 010299.JPG

Steve

[knitebee]

What I did was shape about like you, then used small nails through the articulation points to hold the pieces together while working them over a 5/8in ball stake. Hold the pieces in both the straight and bent positions and slowly work from the outside and you wind up with smooth articulations with min. gapping. [(edited to add) as the nails get bent while working the joint replace with straight ones so that the joint stays properly aligned]

On another note the main knuckle plate on the original actually comes to a slight peak in the middle of each knuckle. Even my reproductions are only about half as deep as the originals in this area, they are amazingly deep, I'd guess between 3/4 and full inch.

heres some other photos of the originals from different angles
http://members.armourarchive.org/knitebee/originalwisby%20photos/

I saw your other post about the finger tips, work them from the outside over a ball stake, takes a little longer but actually easier and nicer. The little lip on the back edge of the finger tips use the end of a 1in piece of bar stock, hold the piece at an angle over it so the edges just touch and the middle is about 1/8in away and tap down nice and evenly.

All in all you well on your way to an impressive set of gauntlets.

[Steve S.]

On another note the main knuckle plate on the original actually comes to a slight peak in the middle of each knuckle. Even my reproductions are only about half as deep as the originals in this area, they are amazingly deep, I'd guess between 3/4 and full inch.

I noticed the crease at the top of each knuckle pocket, but after reaching this level on the metacarpal plate I'm so pleased with it that I'm afraid to screw it up by now trying to chisel a crease in them.

I saw your other post about the finger tips, work them from the outside over a ball stake, takes a little longer but actually easier and nicer. The little lip on the back edge of the finger tips use the end of a 1in piece of bar stock, hold the piece at an angle over it so the edges just touch and the middle is about 1/8in away and tap down nice and evenly.

I think I have made my finger tips too big, and was trying to dish them deeper than the need to be. They should only cover up to the first knuckle, right? Mine stick out nearly 1/2" beyond the end of my fingers from that point. Yours appear to be only very slightly curved, and I curved mine much more. It would be easier if I made them smaller.

Thanks so much for your help and posting your pictures!

Steve

[Mac]

Steve,

There's nothin' to it, but to do it.

Punch your holes on the outside layer first, and use a fine felt tip pen to mark on the inside layer. Make sure you have enough "meat" around the rivet holes. I like to have a rivet diameter of material around each hole. I usually use 1/8" rivets for thumbs, but 3/32" will do.

Once you have temporary rivets (or screws) in the joint, you will be able to tell what has to be changed to make it move enough. The thumb tip should be able to go about 70 degrees or more. The second joint can do with less than 30.

Mac