need low profile edging for aluminum and wood shield, SCA

[Sean Powell]

Hello,

I'm posting this here rather then design/construction because this is about SCA combat legal solutions rather then just 'how do I build it. If this is the wrong location the Mods are welcome to move it.

I've cut a pair of small shields (aprox 18x24) from aluminum but I think they shields are too light and a little weak. I want to back the aluminum with thin birch plywood which I hope will kill some of the reverb sound when hit. Then I want to cover it in canvas and paint but I would prefer not to add bulky hose around the outside. Originally I had intended to cover the edge with trim-lock but the trim-lock isn't wide enough for both the aluminum and the wood.

My experience with raw-hide is limited and un-inspiring. I was hoping for something else for the aluminum.

Is there a wider version of trim-lock (about 3/8") or another solution for edging these that will not be bulky under the canvas.

Thanks in advance,
Sean

[olaf haraldson]

What was the problem with the rawhide? Because I have two shields right now that the rawhide has lasted longer than the shield...

[Jakel]

I use plastic tubing I picked up from home depot, slit it down one side, then wrap it around the edge and glue it down with liquid nails. After that I edge it in rawhide to cover the plastic tubing. I used rasper77's tecnique for the rawhide.
http://forums.armourarchive.org/phpBB2/ ... highlight=

My shields are 3/4 in plywood, so I'm using the 3/4in ID tubing. It wraps around nice and give a little bit of cussion under the rawhide.

[Sean Powell]

What was the problem with the rawhide? Because I have two shields right now that the rawhide has lasted longer than the shield...

I have a wood shield that I edged in aluminum c-channel and then glued rope to the aluminum and secured with raw-hide. The glue on the rope gave way (not the rawhides fault, nothing likes to stick to aluminum) which allowed the sharp edge of the aluminum c-channel to cut through the rawhide.

This shield was supposed to be all aluminum and now I'm thinking aluminum faced wood but either way the aluminum edge would be below the raw-hide waiting to cut through.

If I like the size/shape of these I'll probably use raw-hide on my next wood version (If I just don't send it to Sir Vitus for his uber-shield treatment)

I was hoping to find a wider version of trimlock if such a thing exists.

Sean

Edit: DUH! The obvious answer was to go to trimlok.com and see if they sold the same type stuff in 5/16 or 3/8... which they do but with a minimum order of 250ft for $153.25/spool. Even adding an extra foot to go around the lance cut-out I shouldn't need more then 20 ft for 2 shields.

Anyone know of a source that sells trimlok in shorter measured lengths?

Thanks,
Sean

[Broadway]

I have my heater set up thusly:

I have the aluminum cut to the shap I want, then I edged it in trimlock.

Then I measured the interior space inside of the trimlock.

Then I cut the plywood (1/8" thick), to the dimensions of the void insided the trimlock.

Then I ran one layer of black electrical tape around the edge of the wood. (just to keep any future splinters under control).

BTW, I picked a piece of plywood that already had a good warp to it. Folks are good about leaving those behind and getting the straight stuff for their projects.

I then covered the aluminum shield with canvas, wrapping a good 4 inches extra around and glued down to the back of the shield.

Then I bolted the wood to the aluminum. Metal basket with three bolts in one corner, one bolt in the other upper corner, one bolt in the point at the bottom, several bolts holding the arm strap in the middle.

The wood sinks into the trimlock void effectively clamping down the canvas that was wrapped around to the back of the shield. Looks good like that too.

I used the flat head countersunk type screws, that sink into the canvas and are flush on the face of the shield. Filled the slots with puddy, and primed the face of the shield.

Then I painted it.

Its held up just fine for about a year and a half of constant use. The canvas is split regularly in high impact areas, but the colors on it are white and black, so i just use white and black duct tape to repair the shield before tourneys.

[Edward MacTavish]

I like to use canvas strapping. I actually have a shield that is made like you described. An aluminum facing with a wood back. It is a rather large shield and I think I used a wood that was too thick as its a bit heavy but its a tank.

The first thing I did was I shaped and cut the facing and then I glued the facing onto the piece of plywood. The two pieces were glued and dried while being strapped down to a curved water tank. This was how I managed a nice curve in the shield. When it was dry I used a jig saw to cut the wood to the shape of the shield. My Jig saw leaves a line .5" around the edge when cutting. This line I use for the rivets. Using a lot of aluminum roofing nails I drilled and riveted the facing onto the wood as an extra security. Each rivets through the first layer was two inches apart.

The next thing I did was take a file to both the wood and the aluminum making the edges nice and round. Next I use 1.5" cotton web strapping to edge the shield. To hold on the edging I put an aluminum nail through the wrapped around strapping and through the shield. Make sure you use a washer before peening the nail down.

Here is where you want to attach your straps. I usually rivet my straps in place using nice heavy rivets and quality leather. Stain or finish the wood before moving to the next step.

At this stage I used some one inch strapping to make a cross on the face of the shield. I used a spray on glue to hold it. Then I took the shield facing and glued it to the face of the shield with the spray. It is very important to make sure you get the wrinkles out quickly or they dry that way. The last step is cutting the fabric covering to about 1.5" wider than the shield and wrap the covering around the edge. Tucking the raw edge under I nail the covering to the shield using carpet tacks.

Over all a very good method that I feel makes a very nice and durable shield. In the future I will try other designs under the covering and then painting the covering.

Good luck with your shields,

Edward

[Adamo]

Anyone know of a source that sells trimlok in shorter measured lengths?

Thanks,
Sean

Have you tried McMaster Carr?

Adam

[Gaston de Vieuxchamps]

The reason the rawhide didn't last is becaause of your rope which was sliding vs the aluminum and allowing the rawhide to move.

I have an aluminum shield with rawhide only edging that is now 5 years old. It's the longest I've ever had any edging last.

G

[Sayer Prikehert]

If you want to use trim-loc edging, McMaster-Carr has some.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/3740/=6t262j