Martial surcotte tutorial - drafting and sewing (CORRECTION)

Tailoress · Post by **Tailoress** » Fri May 07, 2010 4:10 pm

PLEASE NOTE: If you've already posted the PDF itself elsewhere, please re-post with the current one (as of 3pm EST, Saturday May 8th) because I discovered a giant math error. Step 9 has been corrected -- 1/4 the length of Measurement 4.... NOT the full length. *shudder* Unless you want to make a surcotte for someone who is 800 lbs.

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I've put my efforts where my mouth is and have prepared a 10-page tutorial that shows how to transform five measurements into a sleeveless surcotte to be worn over armour. The style I've chosen is one that can be seen throughout the 13th century and about half of 14th century in the figural art of that time.

This tutorial shows two possible pattern diagrams and gives step-by-step instructions for drafting a custom pattern from measurements (taken with armour on). I also give instructions for sewing it up.

Many SCA groups are enforcing new rules requiring that obvious plastic armour be covered in some manner. In the spirit of community and support for our fighters, I offer this handout for all to use.

Please feel free to print it out, post the link elsewhere, tell people about it, etc. I only ask that my name and the contents not be altered in any way. If you find any typos, errors, or confusing parts, let me know, please. It's easy for me to update it.

Please see my sig line below for the link.

-Tasha

LR of E · Post by **LR of E** » Fri May 07, 2010 4:33 pm

That is awesome. Thank you. Is Dandelion your middle name? That is fantastic.

Morgan

Richard of Rivenvale · Sat May 08, 2010 2:21 am

Thanks Tasha

@--}----

Tailoress · Post by **Tailoress** » Sat May 08, 2010 7:25 am

You are very welcome. Yes, Dandelion is my middle name. There are at least 50 other "Tasha Kelly"s in this country, but I doubt there's another Tasha Dandelion Kelly. Makes copyright really, really clear.

Baron Conal · Post by **Baron Conal** » Sat May 08, 2010 7:50 am

thank you for your work

thank you for being willing to SHARE your work

Eamonn · Post by **Eamonn** » Sat May 08, 2010 11:50 am

Thanks a lot Tasha. I posted it to my Household listserve. I really appreciate the time and effort that went into this.

Eamonn

John Makeblise · Post by **John Makeblise** » Sat May 08, 2010 12:21 pm

This is wonderful thank you!

You have a knack for making uncomprehensible wizardry (patterning/sewing) clear and understandable.

Hopefully this will lead to less sewing machine fires for myself

Hrolfr · Post by **Hrolfr** » Sat May 08, 2010 1:04 pm

Thank you!

FrauHirsch · Post by **FrauHirsch** » Sat May 08, 2010 1:44 pm

I just made some surcoats with this linen:

It has a really nice weight and seems quite sturdy:

http://www.fabrics-store.com/first.php? ... &article=2

As a note, I've found that corduroy does not hold up well to SCA fighting, it tends to tear along the cords. The cheap cotton velveteen does not do well either.

A true heavy 100% wool, 10)% cotton or matinee higher quality velvets however often hold up very well. The fibers in the pile seem to protect the weft and warp from being crushed and torn.

Wool velvets are expensive, but sometimes you can find them on sale. My husband's wool velvet fighting 'rock is about 20 yrs old and though it has the patina of age, the velvet has not torn. The cotton velveteen bands however have lost a lot of their pile though.

I don't recommend a 100% synthetic apholstery velvet due to most being too sparkly and fake looking in the sunlight and holding in the heat, especially those with a rubberized backing.

Tailoress · Post by **Tailoress** » Sat May 08, 2010 2:02 pm

Thank folks!

BTW, I had to make a correction to step 9 in the drafting instructions. Please re-download if you've already done so. Thanks!

Mac Thamhais · Post by **Mac Thamhais** » Sat May 08, 2010 3:39 pm

Good milady,

I have downloaded the document, and cannot get it to open. Is there mayhap an online or PDF version available?

Tailoress · Post by **Tailoress** » Sat May 08, 2010 6:17 pm

Thanks to Master Gilbert, aka Bartok here on the Archive, I now have a PDF version instead of the doc version. Please click the link again.

Mac Thamhais · Post by **Mac Thamhais** » Sun May 09, 2010 1:20 am

Many thanks milady

Angusm0628 · Post by **Angusm0628** » Sun May 09, 2010 6:58 am

Eamonn wrote:Thanks a lot Tasha. I posted it to my Household listserve. I really appreciate the time and effort that went into this.

Eamonn

You should send a note to Sophie asking her to stick this in our armour page..With all due credits and worship for Tasha...

Gryffinclaw · Post by **Gryffinclaw** » Sun May 09, 2010 8:42 am

Thanks Taska for helping make us netter. This is a great project.

Bran MacNiell · Post by **Bran MacNiell** » Sun May 09, 2010 9:16 am

Tasha you rock! I had decided friday that I really needed one of those surcoats like you had made to make my kit look better. And then you post the instructions! You are awesome!

Effingham · Post by **Effingham** » Sun May 09, 2010 2:14 pm

Schveet!

Galvyn Lockhart · Post by **Galvyn Lockhart** » Sun May 09, 2010 9:07 pm

Hey Tasha!

Thanks for putting this together. I've got some folks in armour that will need to be covered up, so I will be giving this a serious look.

Thanks again. You rock!

- Galvyn

Cian of Storvik · Post by **Cian of Storvik** » Mon May 10, 2010 9:34 am

I would like to give a +1 thanks for this. I plan on trying it out in the next couple of weeks.
I'm going to probably do pattern B, but I have a question about pattern A. The instruction shows to cut out 2 of the gores, but don't you need 4 gores with the seperate gore pattern (e.g. a pair for either side, and a second pair for the opposite panel?).
-Cian

ladyilsebet · Post by **ladyilsebet** » Mon May 10, 2010 10:11 am

I posted a link to the PDF on LegioDraconis. Great work, Tasha!!

Tailoress · Post by **Tailoress** » Mon May 10, 2010 10:21 am

Cian -- If you cut the gores wide enough, you don't need more than two. One on each side -- folded in half once attached to the main panels -- will provide enough width. One thing my little diagrams don't do is provide exact recommended angles. I should probably note that for the best drape and volume, a greater-than-90%-wide gore would not be remiss.

If you'd prefer to cut four, I recommend you cut them so that one side always lays on the straight grain. That way you can sew them together along the straight grain and they won't stretch out along the side seam, creating a drooping hem on the sides. Here's a diagram to make it clear. On the left is how it would lay on the fabric for cutting. On the right is how it would be sewn.

Dan · Post by **Dan** » Mon May 10, 2010 11:11 am

cool. I don't suppose you have a picture of a finished garment to see what it looks like do you?

Amanda M · Post by **Amanda M** » Mon May 10, 2010 12:23 pm

I'm curious too just to see how it lays with a harness on.

Tailoress · Post by **Tailoress** » Mon May 10, 2010 12:33 pm

The best I can do for you is share the pictures of one I made from that pattern (A) for someone here on the Archive as it looked on the table and a less full version of Pattern A that is being worn with only an aketon...

Full version spread out on a table:

Full version belted on a table:

Less full version worn by Baron Horace/PiRho:

Please note I added some fancy extra fabric in the front and back slits for these garments; I don't get into that in the tutorial, as it's really rather optional and a good bit of extra work.

The recipient of the less-full version is Baron Joseph, also here, and he claims to love it. It looks decent on him. I think the fuller drape of the one I made for TallTom is more asthetically pleasing, though. He said he liked it, but I haven't heard any further commentary from him since then.

bhaiduk · Post by **bhaiduk** » Tue Oct 26, 2010 5:10 pm

Can someone post the link again?

Johann Lederer · Post by **Johann Lederer** » Tue Oct 26, 2010 7:58 pm

It is her www address...
http://www.cottesimple.com/