I recently got a zweihammer helm kit and was told it needed an acid bath before blueing. My question is what kind of acid and where to get it?
Holy
Acid?
- InsaneIrish
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Who told you that?
The metal needs to be cleaned, but etching the surface will dull or even pit the metal. You will NOT get a cool shiny "black" finish. Unless you are going for the Wolfwood "weathered" look.
The metal needs to be cleaned, but etching the surface will dull or even pit the metal. You will NOT get a cool shiny "black" finish. Unless you are going for the Wolfwood "weathered" look.
Insane Irish
Quote: "Nissan Maxima"
(on Pennsic) I know that movie. It is the 13th warrior. A bunch of guys in armour that doesn't match itself or anybody elses, go on a trip and argue and get drunk and get laid and then fight Tuchux.
Quote: "Nissan Maxima"
(on Pennsic) I know that movie. It is the 13th warrior. A bunch of guys in armour that doesn't match itself or anybody elses, go on a trip and argue and get drunk and get laid and then fight Tuchux.
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Thomas Powers
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mattmaus
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It needs to be clean as hell.... and not have a speck of grease or oil on it.
I've had pretty good luck recently using brake cleaner. Toxic, dangerous, and bad for you. Kills wasps dead (faster and better than wasp killer). But it cleans the metal good for blue prep.
Handle the piece wearing rubber gloves after that. A finger print is enough to mess up the blue. Also... you should be wearing gloves anyway, because the chem blue is toxic in it's own right.
I've had pretty good luck recently using brake cleaner. Toxic, dangerous, and bad for you. Kills wasps dead (faster and better than wasp killer). But it cleans the metal good for blue prep.
Handle the piece wearing rubber gloves after that. A finger print is enough to mess up the blue. Also... you should be wearing gloves anyway, because the chem blue is toxic in it's own right.
It looked better in my head....
Damnit.
Damnit.
If you are using the Caldwell blackening solution and only the Caldwell product for stainless you need to wash the parts in diluted muriatic acid. The oxidation on the stainless will prevent an even finish. I don't know about other products.
Brian Killian - Atlantia
The more to vengeance he hasteneth;
Knightly as ever his arms he bore,
Staves of lances and shields he shore;
The more to vengeance he hasteneth;
Knightly as ever his arms he bore,
Staves of lances and shields he shore;
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losthelm
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A lot of the comercial products will have instrucitons.
Usualy cleaning with a good grease cutting solvent like denatured alcohol, turpintine, or acatone works.
It's advisable to do the same cleaning before paint.
Usualy a scuffed finsih or wire brush for primer coat but removing all greese and shop grime helps significatly with how the top coat preforms.
Usualy cleaning with a good grease cutting solvent like denatured alcohol, turpintine, or acatone works.
It's advisable to do the same cleaning before paint.
Usualy a scuffed finsih or wire brush for primer coat but removing all greese and shop grime helps significatly with how the top coat preforms.
- InsaneIrish
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losthelm wrote:
It's advisable to do the same cleaning before paint.
Usualy a scuffed finsih or wire brush for primer coat but removing all greese and shop grime helps significatly with how the top coat preforms.
I use windex, or other alcohol based cleaner.
Insane Irish
Quote: "Nissan Maxima"
(on Pennsic) I know that movie. It is the 13th warrior. A bunch of guys in armour that doesn't match itself or anybody elses, go on a trip and argue and get drunk and get laid and then fight Tuchux.
Quote: "Nissan Maxima"
(on Pennsic) I know that movie. It is the 13th warrior. A bunch of guys in armour that doesn't match itself or anybody elses, go on a trip and argue and get drunk and get laid and then fight Tuchux.
Usually etching is recommended for painting, not bluing (I'm not familiar with Caldwell blackening solution). For bluing you want it clean like the others said, you also want it to be at the level of shininess that you want the finished product to be. If you want it to be a bit duller without a satin scratch finish you can etch it, plain old white vinegar will work fine for mild.
- Seved Ribbing
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If you got the mild steal helm(s), they have a residue on them from the cutting process. You can attempt to remove it by hand, but you will have to put a lot of elbow grease in it. I am not sure what to use to get the residue off - I left it as is since I was making it for my kid and it kinda gives it an aged look. I would talk to Zweihammer on what to use.
Lord Seved Ribbing
Squire to Duke Morgan AEthelwulf
"Per fess azure and Or, three linden leaves counterchanged."
"Mottot för ridderlighet är också motto visdom, att tjäna alla och kärlek men en"
Squire to Duke Morgan AEthelwulf
"Per fess azure and Or, three linden leaves counterchanged."
"Mottot för ridderlighet är också motto visdom, att tjäna alla och kärlek men en"
