Ordinarily used in masonry. Anyone know if they're hardenable?
I've heard tell of using them for small punches and repousse tools, stuff like that.
Any experiences?
Anyone use cut nails around the shop?
Anyone use cut nails around the shop?
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Re: Anyone use cut nails around the shop?
I've used them to make small punches for coining dies. They are OK, but a little short, and thus hard to hold on to.
Mac
Mac
Robert MacPherson
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The craftsmen of old had their secrets, and those secrets died with them. We are not the better for that, and neither are they.
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- Cap'n Atli
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Re: Anyone use cut nails around the shop?
I use them all the time for punching and chasing, and was just working on a new set for punching runes last night (the old set had been loaned to a friend and misplaced).
If you just need a simple shape that you can do on the grinder; and if you watch that you do not overheat them, and draw the temper (the water dish is your friend), you don't even have to reharden them.
For those that are forged or overheated, you can reheat with a propane torch (saves firing up the forge) and quench in bacon grease.
There's an article for using them for this purpose somewhere on the web.
If you just need a simple shape that you can do on the grinder; and if you watch that you do not overheat them, and draw the temper (the water dish is your friend), you don't even have to reharden them.
For those that are forged or overheated, you can reheat with a propane torch (saves firing up the forge) and quench in bacon grease.
There's an article for using them for this purpose somewhere on the web.
Retired civil servant, part time blacksmith, and seasonal Viking ship captain.
Visit parks: http://www.nps.gov
Forge iron: http://www.anvilfire.com
Go viking: http://www.longshipco.org
"Fifty years abaft the mast."
Visit parks: http://www.nps.gov
Forge iron: http://www.anvilfire.com
Go viking: http://www.longshipco.org
"Fifty years abaft the mast."
Re: Anyone use cut nails around the shop?
You say they're used for masonry, but are they the same thing as "masonry nails"? If so then yes they are hardenable.
Re: Anyone use cut nails around the shop?
I use these for small decorative punching tools.
They are pre-hardened, and like the Cap'n said dont over heat them when grinding they will be just fine.

I weld them to a 1/2" steel rod for a handle.
They love you long time GI.
Hal
They are pre-hardened, and like the Cap'n said dont over heat them when grinding they will be just fine.

I weld them to a 1/2" steel rod for a handle.
They love you long time GI.
Hal
Happy Metal Pounding
- Cap'n Atli
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Re: Anyone use cut nails around the shop?
Cut Nails vs. Masonry Nails: Time to define what is what. All cut nails are not masonry nails and all masonry nails are not cut nails.
Tremont Nail Company specializes in mild steel cut nails of several varieties for historic restoration. ( http://www.tremontnail.com/about.htm ) I have used their rose-headed nails (from the late Finnr's hoard) to clench nail the multi-layer front door for my forge.
Most masonry nails are cut nails, but not all, there are also a number of drawn wire nails and various designs and sizes. They are, however, all high carbon and or alloy, and very stiff and hard. Clenching an unannealed (or even an annealed) masonry nail is impossible at worst, and frustrating at best.
Note that round masonry nails, like the cut masonry nails can be ground, or forged and rehardened for various shapes.
BIG masonry nails (16d or larger) lend themselves to use as tools without endangering fingers; while small ones will also work for fine stuff, especially with the extension that Hal suggests.
Oh; and you can also use them to nail stuff to masonry; very useful in my old cinderblock shop; not so much in the new wooden forge.
Tremont Nail Company specializes in mild steel cut nails of several varieties for historic restoration. ( http://www.tremontnail.com/about.htm ) I have used their rose-headed nails (from the late Finnr's hoard) to clench nail the multi-layer front door for my forge.
Most masonry nails are cut nails, but not all, there are also a number of drawn wire nails and various designs and sizes. They are, however, all high carbon and or alloy, and very stiff and hard. Clenching an unannealed (or even an annealed) masonry nail is impossible at worst, and frustrating at best.
Note that round masonry nails, like the cut masonry nails can be ground, or forged and rehardened for various shapes.
BIG masonry nails (16d or larger) lend themselves to use as tools without endangering fingers; while small ones will also work for fine stuff, especially with the extension that Hal suggests.
Oh; and you can also use them to nail stuff to masonry; very useful in my old cinderblock shop; not so much in the new wooden forge.
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Last edited by Cap'n Atli on Mon May 16, 2011 3:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Retired civil servant, part time blacksmith, and seasonal Viking ship captain.
Visit parks: http://www.nps.gov
Forge iron: http://www.anvilfire.com
Go viking: http://www.longshipco.org
"Fifty years abaft the mast."
Visit parks: http://www.nps.gov
Forge iron: http://www.anvilfire.com
Go viking: http://www.longshipco.org
"Fifty years abaft the mast."
-
Thomas Powers
- Archive Member
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Re: Anyone use cut nails around the shop?
Just to add on the Tremont historical nails are not high carbon; though some may be A36 as there were some difficulties annealing them for the viking boat project I got dragged into---to fix the annealing problems!
Thomas
Thomas
