Good fabric or farb?

nachebon · Post by **nachebon** » Wed Sep 17, 2003 2:16 am

Will these swatches be good for Viking and/or 13th Century garb?

Swatch 1: "Shades of Blue Plaid Tropical Weight Wool Fabric"

[img]http://tinyurl.com/nnba[/img]

Swatch 2: "Black & White Worsted
Wool Jacquard Fabric"

[img]http://tinyurl.com/nnbh[/img]

Swatch 3: "Woven Light Weight
Fancy Wool Tweed Fabric"

[img]http://tinyurl.com/nnbn[/img]

All of these were found at fashionfabricsclub.com.

I also saw a lot of wool crepe and jacquard. Are they Viking and/or 13th Century appropriate or farb?

As usual, thanks in advance. . .

Robert

Egfroth · Post by **Egfroth** » Wed Sep 17, 2003 6:58 am

Ooh, I like the second one, though black is one of those controversial colours, and it's still uncertain that the Vikings actually used it. The pattern looks pretty right for the period, though if a Viking had it, it would probably be an import - their weaving patterns usually weren't as sophisticated as that from my experience. On the other hand, the more civilised Arabs, Byzantines, Persians etc produced stuff with patterns quite like that, and were able to produce black fabric colours. But it would have been very expensive in a Viking context, and only somebody with a lot of money would have been able to afford it.It would have been used in a very prized garment that the person would have treasured, and probably have kept for "best".

The other two really don't look like anything I've seen from the period, though I don't claim to be an expert. The patterns are {i]sort of[/i] right, but I'm afraid they look too modern. The Vikings certainly produced twills - lots of them- but not like that. And the checks/plaid - yes they had them, but again, that pattern somehow just looks too modern.

------------------
Egfroth

"I hope all your chooks turn to Emus and kick your dunny down."

see my webpage at www.geocities.com/egfrothos

James B. · Post by **James B.** » Wed Sep 17, 2003 8:31 am

I know that crepe is not until late 15th C at best. I don't know if jacquard is out for those eras but the pattern in the jacquard is most likely not period.

I can't say for sure but the 1st and 3rd look possible, but I normally just use fulled tabby woven wool for pre 14th C.

I have not found anything on fashionfabricsclub.com I would use in the past but that does not mean they don't have some.

Flonzy

------------------
Cheap garb is as bad as plastic armor.
http://home.armourarchive.org/members/flonzy

kass · Post by **kass** » Wed Sep 17, 2003 8:36 am

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by nachebon:
I also saw a lot of wool crepe and jacquard. Are they Viking and/or 13th Century appropriate or farb?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Robert, let me begin by saying that Viking is not my area of expertise, but I'm a bit of a specialist in the area of medievally-appropriate fabric.

Wool crepe wasn't known until the late 15th century. Avoid it.

The Jacquard loom was invented in the 18th century. HOWEVER, the Jacquard loom simply was a labour-saving device to replace the draw loom (which required two people to run). The draw loom has been in use since ancient times. It produces brocades.

However, if the jacquards you're finding don't look like period brocades, don't buy them. The two you're showing here I wouldn't mind for high middle ages or renaissance. But for 13th century Norse, it's just not right.

The first picture you showed (the plaid) looks pretty good. Go with that and skip the other two.

Kass

Gwen · Post by **Gwen** » Wed Sep 17, 2003 10:10 am

Reading the inquiry as "Viking OR 13th C." but not "13th C. Viking", I'd give all 3 a thumbs up. Too bad they're black based. Like Kass said, the loom it's woven on may be modern (but so was the machine the thread was spun on, right?) but the patterns look good and frankly I've seen some way cool stripes and fabrics in works by Simone Martino that makes me think these would work great. What do you think Kass?

Jeff (husband Jeff, not JeffJ) has a pair of chausses made of a brown/black/cream wool tweed like the bottom fabric that he uses with his 14th C. stuff and I think they look really good.

Gwen

kass · Post by **kass** » Wed Sep 17, 2003 11:02 am

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by Gwen:
What do you think Kass?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Oh yeah! I was reading "13th century Viking" and that wasn't what he said at all, was it? Thanks for catching my oversight, Gwen. I've been starting at AutoCAD for too long...

I actually like the center jacquard. I don't know much about the 13th century, but if it's appropriate to your station in life, it's sure nice looking.

Of course what Flonzy says is my usual mantra -- you can't go wrong with fulled tabby or twill wool (usually called "wool flannel" on fabric sites). It's always correct.

Still, avoid the wool crepe. Great for later stuff. Not pre-1500.

Kass

broinnfinn · Post by **broinnfinn** » Wed Sep 17, 2003 1:04 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by kass:
 Of course what Flonzy says is my usual mantra -- you can't go wrong with fulled tabby or twill wool (usually called "wool flannel" on fabric sites). It's always correct.

Still, avoid the wool crepe. Great for later stuff. Not pre-1500.

Kass<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes, avoid crepe. However, if you can find it, a herringbone twill is appropriate in both linen and wool. Mind you, a suit-weight worsted herringbone is probably much too fine for the time period, but the weave is correct.

The jaquard is iffy at best. The import of near-Eastern trade goods is pretty well established throughout the Viking areas, but the pattern is a bit late to my eye. And yep, 13th century is not really "Viking", which by tradition ends at 1066 or 1100, take your pick.

Broinnfinn

Halfdan · Post by **Halfdan** » Wed Sep 17, 2003 1:58 pm

So-- Wool twill and "flannel" are early-period appropriate... how about wool melton?

PS I'm really grateful for this info! I'm looking to make a more appropriate early period outfit then the machine-sewn linen/cotton stuff I have now.

James B. · Post by **James B.** » Wed Sep 17, 2003 2:06 pm

Wool melton is good if it is not worsted. Plus watch out for it being 100%, most sites have 80% wool 20% polyester melton.

Flonzy

------------------
Cheap garb is as bad as plastic armor.
http://home.armourarchive.org/members/flonzy

kass · Post by **kass** » Wed Sep 17, 2003 3:04 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by flonzy:
Wool melton is good if it is not worsted. Plus watch out for it being 100%, most sites have 80% wool 20% polyester melton.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Flonzy's right, of course. But I might add that melton is usually coat weight. That's great if you're looking for heavy wool. But if you want it for a tunic or the like, it may not work well.

Always get a swatch!

Kass

nachebon · Post by **nachebon** » Wed Sep 17, 2003 6:10 pm

Thanks to everyone for the excellent responses.

I meant Viking --OR-- 13th Century. I'm mainly interested in the 13th Century but there is a Viking-themed tourney in October.