cutting to size after rough cutting

null · Post by **null** » Mon May 24, 2004 9:27 pm

Yay first post!

So far making armor has been a daunting, but rewarding endeavor, and I am thoroughly enjoying it.

anyway, i was wondering what you primarly use to grind down metal or take off what ever is left after an imprecise first cut. I use a jigsaw to cut my steel, and i find it rather difficult to cut in perfectly straight lines... I do NOT have a grinding wheel and there is little possiblity of getting one.

I've tried finding drill bits for the job, and have also used a hand filer, but this takes far to long for me.

Is there a cheap solution? or perhaps a specific drill bit i should look for? I do have an actual drill press. Thanks for your time.

Maze · Post by **Maze** » Mon May 24, 2004 9:59 pm

Hello! and welcome to the archive

well i also use a jigsaw to cut (but soon i shall be upgrading to a throatless shear as soon as they are in stock) and i use a grinder to finish the edges and take off the exess of where i have missed.....but depending on how big of a margin you have i suppose you could use a pair of aviation snips....(considering you are working with a gauge that the snips can handle) overall i would suggest using a bench grinder for the job.....but there is little chance of that so i read...

im used to using the grinder and snips to trim....

i suppose the best thing is to get out some good snips and some wrasps and files...untill ya get a bench grinder......but even when ya get that your still gonna wanna use the wrasp and files to get your edges nice an smooth lookin

(but im not 100% sure if im doing mine the right way either...i do what works for me other people probably have diffrent ways)

~Steve

Fenrix · Post by **Fenrix** » Tue May 25, 2004 12:18 am

Hm, I think you will kill your drill bits trying to use them that way. Instead just look for a cheap tool sale or a local harbour freight store. I have a $15 bench grinder I bought from a tent sale about 3 years ago. I use it for both grinding and polishing and its still going strong. I'm finally about to give in and purchase a nice $150 1.5 hp buffer, but 3 years ago I couldn't afford that.

Halberds · Post by **Halberds** » Tue May 25, 2004 12:26 am

Files work very well.

Clamp your piece down and file it; in a perpendicular direction to the work piece.

File all the sharp edges and corners.

Welcome to the Archive.

Cheers,

Hal

Johannes · Post by **Johannes** » Tue May 25, 2004 12:37 am

The first upgrade power tool I purchased was a 1" belt sander for deburring. I used a file for quite a while, but it takes too much time away from everything else. A Hobby one can be picked up for under $100 still, I think.

Konstantin the Red · Post by **Konstantin the Red** » Tue May 25, 2004 2:12 am

Pick up a sanding disc for your power drill and use coarse-grit discs on it, like 80 grit.

For your bench grinder, peruse the classifieds and haunt swap meets and used-tool places wheresoever they may be. If you can pick up an angle grinder for a price that suits your purse, you can use that. The angle grinder has handheld portablity and flexibility, and the bench grinder is better for control and toolmaking.

Alexander of Derlington · Tue May 25, 2004 6:36 am

You can also significantly reduce the amount of grinding you do by being careful and following your pattern lines as closely as you dare.

Ideally you should only have to remove a minimal amount of material (less than 1mm) which should take less than 10 mins per piece with a hand file (assuming simple vambrace/elbow cop type pieces here)

null · Post by **null** » Tue May 25, 2004 6:52 am

thanks everyone!

perhaps it is time to start saving for a grinder!

i think i may pick up a pair of aviation snips, (hadnt thought of that) as well as a few good files for now.

With a little luck ill have my first spagenhelm finished by the end of next week.

-null

Konall · Post by **Konall** » Tue May 25, 2004 5:56 pm

Konstantin's suggestion of getting a sanding disc for your drill is a great one if you absolutely can't get a grinder. You can buy several additional kinds of finishing attachments for your drill also. However, most drills are not designed to run at high speeds for long periods. In doing so, you will dramatically shorten the life of a normal drill. Even the professional grade (read: very expensive) ones will be adversely affected by such use.

You would be much better off to get a tool designed to operate in that realm. Might I suggest the following sale at Harbor Freight:

$10 for a 4Ã‚Â½ inch angle grinder.
Plus shipping.
You'll still have to buy a grinding disc for stock removal, and I suggest a 120 grit flap disk for finishing the edges.

Later, when this Piece of Crap has died on you (Warning: it may be years though. Don't count on it giving you an easy excuse to buy a new one) you may be in a position to use some of the funds you've made by selling armor to your friends to buy a good one.

Angus Bjornssen · Post by **Angus Bjornssen** » Tue May 25, 2004 6:17 pm

I use a jigsaw to cut pieces. I also have a bench grinder for deburring. I can usually cut a straight line (lots of practice) and find that a simple file is good for deburring. On the other hand, if my cut seems to resemble a pissed of rattlesnake, I tend to go back to the grinder to straighten out the line.

Basically, if you can cut straight (usually based on your level of fatigue) then a decent flat file will do wonders and rather quickly for deburring. If you accidentally go off the line when cutting then a bench grinder, angle grinder, or some other type of fast grinder is your best bet. Files still work but they do take time as you have found out.

Practice, endurance or shear are your best bets short of a grinder.

Best of luck,

Angus

null · Post by **null** » Tue May 25, 2004 6:56 pm

wow i guess i didnt realize that a grinder could be so cheap. Thanks for the tip Konall. I just managed to convince my father to purchase one for me. My order is placed.