This past June I spoke with Ben Scheiner, a local armourer here in Cincinnati, about what 410 steel is. Ben is a professional machinist that runs Dragon Forge on the side. I had ordered a full stainless steel harness from him (he's a friend of mine and an all-around cool dude) and we got to talking in-depth about the costs in running an armoury.
Ben tells me, "You know all those samurai swords you see on eBay? They say '440' on them? That's hardened steel, and 410 is like that. Basically, it's like spring steel, but stainless".
To say the lightbulb went off is an understatement.
I've been kicking around the idea of getting into the armour-supply business. I have the financial ability to have dies ground and stamp pieces for mass production.
First I needed to test the process however; I would never enter a business without the fundamental knowledge of the product, so I immediately called a place called Bodycote and basically got the executive summary on how heat-treating 410 works.
After one conversation with a metallurgist I filed with the United States Patent and Trademark Office for a trademark on "spring stainless", found a company to create my dies, and did a small business forecast using SAP software to figure out what my cash outlay vs. income would be in 2005 (more on this later).
To start my experiment I called Admiral Steel, ordered a few sheets of 410 and 420, commissioned the labor to turn said steel into a pair of elbows by another professional armourer named John Gruber, and finally had it heat treated.
Worked the first time.
The elbow polishes up just like stainless, it is completely rust free, and in my non-scientific "tie it to a post and hit it as hard as you can with a 5' rattan pole" test it passed with flying colors. The force actually caused the edges of the elbow to dig into the pine post. No dents.
http://www.azom.com/details.asp?ArticleID=970
The above link is a site that talks about the characteristics of the steel. I don't know what any of this stuff means, perhaps one of the pros out here can offer further insight.
After discussing this with John I've opted to post here on the AA and openly share with you all everything I've learned on this process and dispel any rumours on what my personal plans are. I want everyone to succeed, truly, so I am putting my research where my mouth is.
First, my disclaimer: I am not an armourer, metallurgist, fabricator, etc. My tool chest consists of a Black and Decker electric screwdriver and one of those $10 socket sets from True Value.
I am, however, a businessman, and I believe that 400-series steel is the future of armouring for SCA/WMA.
Why? Because 410 steel in thin gauges is a.) relatively easy to work with (I have two armourers that agree on this) and b.) requires no water or oil quenching.
I repeat: since it air cools so you have a good chance of success the very first time. Just put it on a piece of concrete (e.g., the garage floor) and let it cool.
When I asked the good people at Bodycote about heat treating steels they talked with me about distortion. This was something that I did not understand until their description of it, but now I get it:
The reason armourers charge more for 1050 is that there is a real possibility of the piece distorting in shape when they quench it in transmission oil, water, or whatever.
They can lose the piece entirely and have to start over from scratch. That eats up time, and time is money to all of us.
410 allows armourers to make a superior product (it's stainless) with low-to-no chance of distortion (air quench).
Here is my experiment in full:
- 1.) Get steel - I called Admiral Steel, spoke to a representative named "Cleo", and bought a few sheets that I think were 24" x 48" (I never saw them as I had them shipped directly to armourers). The elbows are made out of 18 gauge. I think each sheet cost me $30 USD which can yield a lot of elbows.
2.) Get armourer - I hope you guys can handle this one on your own.
3.) Heat treat finished piece - I used Bodycote but my armourers told me that this was completely possible to DIY with a kiln that has a digital thermometer.
I'm not supposed to say what it costs to use Bodycote but it was less than the price of the steel. This makes the kiln option a smart investment based on a projection of over 100 pieces per year.
4.) Polish - same as regular steel (cotton wheels, white rouge, etc.).
That's it. No magic, just process, and it worked the first time.
I was also told:
410 can be welded, as long as you use the matching 410 welding stuff (forgive me, I am not a welder / fabricator, just a mere suit).
410 is not magic, but to maintain dent resistance the "two gauges lighter than regular stainless" is a good rule of thumb. This 18 gauge elbow is probably overkill. The next harness I commission will have 22 gauge elbows in 410.
I'm sharing the results of my experiment with everyone because I hope to have the ability to buy 400-series stainless steel armour from you soon.
On the rumours of me getting into the business:
I have not yet decided to enter the business of manufacturing and selling armour for SCA/WMA as my trip to Bangalore morphed into another trip to Germany.
If I manufacture in India I have to see the actual factory to know that it is in accordance with US-based standards for worker well-being. I must have a photograph of myself standing in said factory with the people who make this stuff as proof of my due diligence.
Regardless of my own personal interests I think this information can help you guys build more profit margin into your businesses.
The market is accustomed to paying more for 1050; why not a premium over that for 410 which is stronger and stainless at the same time?
Or better yet undercut the 1050 prices because you have a much lower possibility of wastage during the quench?
400-series stainless steel is the best material I can find anywhere to make armour out of; it's rust-free, relatively inexpensive, and looks right.
My next experiment is currently underway now; laser-cut and hardened 420 scale armour. I promise to share the results as soon as I am able.
Happy holidays armourers; I hope you use this information to redefine our cottage industry.
Leo
