I don't see any of the other forums that indicate construction, so I'm placing this here. It's not armor but I wanted to show off the chair that my knight and I built for my wife's birthday.
http://photos.yahoo.com/~nikolaus_citadel
Look in the "Chair" album for pics.
Construction is of Poplar with a golden oak danish oil finish. A burgundy brocade backed with heavy canvas makes up the back and seat.
Birthday Present for the wife
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InsaneIrish
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holy crap that is a very nice repro of the period examples. Nicely done.
You happen to have patterns for that?
You happen to have patterns for that?
Insane Irish
Quote: "Nissan Maxima"
(on Pennsic) I know that movie. It is the 13th warrior. A bunch of guys in armour that doesn't match itself or anybody elses, go on a trip and argue and get drunk and get laid and then fight Tuchux.
Quote: "Nissan Maxima"
(on Pennsic) I know that movie. It is the 13th warrior. A bunch of guys in armour that doesn't match itself or anybody elses, go on a trip and argue and get drunk and get laid and then fight Tuchux.
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Kenwrec Wulfe
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Wonderful piece....
I concur with Irish...you have a pattern for that?
I concur with Irish...you have a pattern for that?
Excellence is an art won by training and habituation. We do not act rightly because we have virtue or excellence, but we rather have those because we have acted rightly. We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act but a habit. -Aristotle
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Roger_de_Gilbert
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I helped Nikos with this chair, it is the second one I have made.
There is no pattern, specifically. I based the basic shape on some remaining period samples. Basically the design is make two X's and connect them while adding some appropriate curves to give it a pleasing aspect.
I am designing a jig to assist with the shaping of the legs. When I have the process down I will, most likely, be selling a few of these. I will post some pics of the jigs and parts if there is interest in them.
Roger
There is no pattern, specifically. I based the basic shape on some remaining period samples. Basically the design is make two X's and connect them while adding some appropriate curves to give it a pleasing aspect.
I am designing a jig to assist with the shaping of the legs. When I have the process down I will, most likely, be selling a few of these. I will post some pics of the jigs and parts if there is interest in them.
Roger
Gorgeous!
"Thomas you are the bad guy because you have dared to embrace such concepts as patriotism, duty, and honor. If you add fidelity, trust, courage, and fortitude you have the new version of the seven deadly sins. " -Winterfell
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www.kcsword.com
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Thorbjorn
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Now I have 'that's not made from one sheet of plywood' envy. Great job!
"A good Frankish neighbor is one that lives next to your enemy" - Milanese Count, c1450
Thorbjorn Shieldbender | m/k/a Erik Olsen Shieldbender.com
Thorbjorn Shieldbender | m/k/a Erik Olsen Shieldbender.com
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Blackstone
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Re: Birthday Present for the wife
Nikos wrote:I don't see any of the other forums that indicate construction, so I'm placing this here. It's not armor but I wanted to show off the chair that my knight and I built for my wife's birthday.
Verra nice -- and happy birthday to Aine. (Go Leo's.)
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BighornCaribou
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Charles (Blackstone), I'll pass along the well wishes, but she's not a Leo. She's a Cancer. I'm just slow at getting the pictures posted. 
Bighorn, I designed the master, made a mold out of silicon RTV, then cast the plaques out of pewter. I'm in the process of re-doing the faux enamel in each plaque using an epoxy resin that I've been experimenting with. I'll post new pictures once I'm done with that.
Bighorn, I designed the master, made a mold out of silicon RTV, then cast the plaques out of pewter. I'm in the process of re-doing the faux enamel in each plaque using an epoxy resin that I've been experimenting with. I'll post new pictures once I'm done with that.
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Matt_Stanley
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RE: the enameling.
A friend of mine used to work for Games Workshop, and he got good results via artificial water used in silk floral arragments. He'd mix the GW pigment inks into the "water" and pour it into whatever he wanted to make into a lake or pond or what not. From what I remember the stuff was cheap, but not something you'd want to mix in an enclosed space. He would also paint the bottom of whatever he was pouring stuff into for the best results.
A friend of mine used to work for Games Workshop, and he got good results via artificial water used in silk floral arragments. He'd mix the GW pigment inks into the "water" and pour it into whatever he wanted to make into a lake or pond or what not. From what I remember the stuff was cheap, but not something you'd want to mix in an enclosed space. He would also paint the bottom of whatever he was pouring stuff into for the best results.
--
"Leave the matter of religion to the family altar, the church, and the private school, supported entirely by private contributions. Keep the church and state forever separate."
Ulysses S. Grant
"Leave the matter of religion to the family altar, the church, and the private school, supported entirely by private contributions. Keep the church and state forever separate."
Ulysses S. Grant
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Kenwrec Wulfe
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Roger_de_Gilbert wrote: Basically the design is make two X's and connect them ....
Roger
This is where I am looking for information....connecting them...Not being a woodworker, knowing how this was done would be a huge help. How is the joint designed? Is there a wooden or metal pin that holds it together? How did you cap it off to hid the joint so nicely?
Thanks!
Excellence is an art won by training and habituation. We do not act rightly because we have virtue or excellence, but we rather have those because we have acted rightly. We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act but a habit. -Aristotle
Matt, the process I've come up with that seems to work best is using food dye powder. But I'll take a look at the GW pigments for a broader color range. I intend to start selling plaques and full belts in the near future.
Wulfe, the X's are pinned together at the point of rotation using a metal rod that's shorter than the distance from front to back. A wooden dowel is used to cap the hole. The arms and legs hold the X'es together so they don't come apart.
Wulfe, the X's are pinned together at the point of rotation using a metal rod that's shorter than the distance from front to back. A wooden dowel is used to cap the hole. The arms and legs hold the X'es together so they don't come apart.