Stupid Axe Question (SCA)
Stupid Axe Question (SCA)
I really want an Axe for an upcoming Viking oriented event in Atlantia...
I wanted to get a Mandrake Axe head, but it seems like I just won't have the extra cash flow for it between now and the tourney...
Lets say, I have a bunch of foam, and rattan, and duct tape, but absolutely no clue on how to construct a good axe for SCA armoured combat...
You guys know any links to sites that deal with this? Or could you post pics on the construction process?
I feel kinda dumb not knowing this process... I've just never needed, or wanted an axe before.
Thanks for any and all help.
I wanted to get a Mandrake Axe head, but it seems like I just won't have the extra cash flow for it between now and the tourney...
Lets say, I have a bunch of foam, and rattan, and duct tape, but absolutely no clue on how to construct a good axe for SCA armoured combat...
You guys know any links to sites that deal with this? Or could you post pics on the construction process?
I feel kinda dumb not knowing this process... I've just never needed, or wanted an axe before.
Thanks for any and all help.
dulce periculum
Re: Stupid Axe Question (SCA)
Dante della Luna wrote:I really want an Axe for an upcoming Viking oriented event in Atlantia...
I wanted to get a Mandrake Axe head, but it seems like I just won't have the extra cash flow for it between now and the tourney...
Lets say, I have a bunch of foam, and rattan, and duct tape, but absolutely no clue on how to construct a good axe for SCA armoured combat...
You guys know any links to sites that deal with this? Or could you post pics on the construction process?
I feel kinda dumb not knowing this process... I've just never needed, or wanted an axe before.
Thanks for any and all help.
I am only 90% sure mine is legal. It follows the letter of the rules but I think I need to have a marshal check it out before I use it.
Having said that, this is how I made mine.
Step one, I went to a hardware store and got a vulcanized tire rubber mat. It was very hard rubber, 3/8" thick, made for tiling the floor in weight rooms. I got mine for 12 bucks.
Next I cut an axe head shape out if the rubber using a scroll saw. This axe head was mirrored connected by a 4 inch strip of rubber between the two sides.
Next I cut out two more axe heads the same size and removed the inside of them leaving me with a .5 inch strip the shape of an axe head that is open on the handle end.
Then I glued the 4 layers together with the mirrored piece wrapped around the two other pieces. I used a product called gorilla glue, and it worked very well.
When this dries it should accept a 1 1/4" stick of rattan.
After this is forced in I cut symmetrical holes on the out side layer of rubber flush with the blade side of the rattan. I then laced though this with nylon cord until the head was very secure.
This gives you a hollow rubber axe head that gives heft with out exceeding the weight limit.
I then padded the striking edge with .75 of dense foam, and taped the hell out of it. I will post pictures of it tonight if I get around to it.
Be strong in the Lord, and in the power of his might. Put on the whole armor of God, that ye may be able to stand against the wiles of the devil.
A good axe I've seen, similar to the one mentioned above is to take several leather squares glued together to use as the core (see crappy picture) sandwich between another piece that wraps around the rattan, like mentioned above, pad it, tape it wreak havoc. I've used said axe a few times and it works very well.
~Folcric
~Folcric
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We have a guy here in Artemisia that has an interesting method and it works.
first go and purchase some "flip flops". If you get the thicker ones you and make it out of 1 shoe if you have the thinner ones you will have to glue them together. to do this you use "shoe goo" it works the best.
once you have flip flop. you want to cut off the last inch or two of the heel so that you have a flat recieving end.
Then cut off about 2 -3 inches of the toe end. Take to excess toe that you have cut off and attach it to the "bottom" edge of your now rectangularish flip flop. there by creating a roughly axish design.
do a slight bevel on the heel end so that it will be flush with your stick.
use STRAPPING TAPE to attach and tape the living S##t out of it. then go and get yourself some hockey tape. (this is what I use you might want somethign else) and dress it up. You might want to get some heaver leather for a striker pad. Or sometimes what we have done here is use rattan.
this is a down and dirty version. you can make an ax in a couple of hours this way. By using some of the same tech and ideas you can make som really spiffy stuff with more time and maybe some leather,
if you need a more detailed version just message me and i can elaborate.
first go and purchase some "flip flops". If you get the thicker ones you and make it out of 1 shoe if you have the thinner ones you will have to glue them together. to do this you use "shoe goo" it works the best.
once you have flip flop. you want to cut off the last inch or two of the heel so that you have a flat recieving end.
Then cut off about 2 -3 inches of the toe end. Take to excess toe that you have cut off and attach it to the "bottom" edge of your now rectangularish flip flop. there by creating a roughly axish design.
do a slight bevel on the heel end so that it will be flush with your stick.
use STRAPPING TAPE to attach and tape the living S##t out of it. then go and get yourself some hockey tape. (this is what I use you might want somethign else) and dress it up. You might want to get some heaver leather for a striker pad. Or sometimes what we have done here is use rattan.
this is a down and dirty version. you can make an ax in a couple of hours this way. By using some of the same tech and ideas you can make som really spiffy stuff with more time and maybe some leather,
if you need a more detailed version just message me and i can elaborate.
Gods and Little Fishies, but I *LOVE* my job!
~Malcom_Mor~
~Malcom_Mor~
- Robert of Canterbury
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I've made my last few pollaxe heads out of just ordinary foam and Rattan.
Admittedly I started with triple thickness foam, but you could just as easily glue three layers together, (Use a flexible glue) or use doublesided sticky tape.
Cut out your axehead, and a small back piece.
Glue (or doublesided tape) the blade to the haft. tape on with glassfiber tape, Glue on back piece, tape.
Tape a split rattan clacker to the front of the blade.
Reasonable give, weight and a nice audible crack on striking to cue the recipient.
If you really want to take the trouble, you could tape/glue a strip of webbing up the haftand around the edge of the head, to reinforce it for hooking. But tape the clacker over that.
Cover in duct tape of your choice.
Admittedly I started with triple thickness foam, but you could just as easily glue three layers together, (Use a flexible glue) or use doublesided sticky tape.
Cut out your axehead, and a small back piece.
Glue (or doublesided tape) the blade to the haft. tape on with glassfiber tape, Glue on back piece, tape.
Tape a split rattan clacker to the front of the blade.
Reasonable give, weight and a nice audible crack on striking to cue the recipient.
If you really want to take the trouble, you could tape/glue a strip of webbing up the haftand around the edge of the head, to reinforce it for hooking. But tape the clacker over that.
Cover in duct tape of your choice.
I made this axe with a center core of high density rubber foam,
(black kayaking foam)
and a layer of thick leather wrapped completly around the back and sides.
The leather, when flat, looks like a batman logo.
It's attached to the rattan with lots of heavy strapping tape, and so far has held up well.
You are also welcome to use this axe at Yimir, as I will be fighting with that other viking weapon, the "sword"
Justus
(black kayaking foam)
and a layer of thick leather wrapped completly around the back and sides.
The leather, when flat, looks like a batman logo.
It's attached to the rattan with lots of heavy strapping tape, and so far has held up well.
You are also welcome to use this axe at Yimir, as I will be fighting with that other viking weapon, the "sword"
Justus
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theodrik
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SCA legal battleaxe
I use 2" thick ethylfoam as the base for my axe heads. I cut out the shape of the entire axe head. If this includes a back hammer/spike/claw, remove this at the back of the haft line.
Cut out a heavy leather 'slapper' (sole leather, 8 oz. etc.) for the edge and the sides and top of the blade out of 4-6 oz. If topped with a thrusting tip, make the top piece long enough to go up the haft in order to stich the thrusting tip anchor to it. Stitch the pieces together, they should fit very snuggly.
Lace to haft at the back of the haft.
Add back hammer and cover with tape.
Cut out a heavy leather 'slapper' (sole leather, 8 oz. etc.) for the edge and the sides and top of the blade out of 4-6 oz. If topped with a thrusting tip, make the top piece long enough to go up the haft in order to stich the thrusting tip anchor to it. Stitch the pieces together, they should fit very snuggly.
Lace to haft at the back of the haft.
Add back hammer and cover with tape.
Sir Theodrik of Skane,
West, Mists, Sturmbock Company
'Lude Fortier, Lude Juste, Nemini Damnum!'
West, Mists, Sturmbock Company
'Lude Fortier, Lude Juste, Nemini Damnum!'
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william
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- Location: Hamburg, Germany
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Hi!
Just as a small side note to a great collection of "recipes", I've started to use compressed sole leather instead of rattan clackers. It's a hard veg-tan that I also use for armouring purposes. The key advantages are that it has a flat striking surface, is low profile (about 5/32") and can be used for curved forms as well. From my experience so far it still gives a decent "Thwack!".
Cheers,
William
Just as a small side note to a great collection of "recipes", I've started to use compressed sole leather instead of rattan clackers. It's a hard veg-tan that I also use for armouring purposes. The key advantages are that it has a flat striking surface, is low profile (about 5/32") and can be used for curved forms as well. From my experience so far it still gives a decent "Thwack!".
Cheers,
William
+ Noli fortius me ferire +
Ld. William Gifford
Shire of Two Seas, Drachenwald, SCA
Ld. William Gifford
Shire of Two Seas, Drachenwald, SCA
- Roibeard MacNeill
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Here is a pics of both my Bearded Axe (5' tall with buttspike) and a diagram of the head construction. It's the most solid axe I've ever used and is the child of much trial and error. It's even so rigidly attached to the haft that it can be used as a solid shield hook.
Slainte,
Rabhairt
Slainte,
Rabhairt
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"I would sooner sip from the Cup of Honour than have my fill from the Chalice of Compromise"
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Thorgrim_sca
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- Location: Troth-heim (OH)
Dante,
Love your spirit in wanting to make an axe for this event (Ymir?).
Back in Dec I finished mine. the head was a "by my hand" design. Not only did I use a strong adhesive to mate the head to the hardened leather, but also interwove with sinew both the head to the haft. This way there isnt a single point of failure should any of the adhesive glue come loose it will still hold true.
I am looking at going to Mananin Mac Lir. If you want, I would be happy to show you in person how it was done.
Better yet, if you have paypal, I would be honored to spot you the $25 bucks for their axe head.
Love your spirit in wanting to make an axe for this event (Ymir?).
Back in Dec I finished mine. the head was a "by my hand" design. Not only did I use a strong adhesive to mate the head to the hardened leather, but also interwove with sinew both the head to the haft. This way there isnt a single point of failure should any of the adhesive glue come loose it will still hold true.
I am looking at going to Mananin Mac Lir. If you want, I would be happy to show you in person how it was done.
Better yet, if you have paypal, I would be honored to spot you the $25 bucks for their axe head.
Thorgrim Ulfhamr Sigurdsson
Squire to Syr Gunnar Redboar
House Red Hammer
Squire to Syr Gunnar Redboar
House Red Hammer
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Thorgrim_sca
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- Location: Troth-heim (OH)
