SCA: Sword construction

For those of us who wish to talk about the many styles and facets of recreating Medieval armed combat.
Post Reply
User avatar
carlyle
Archive Member
Posts: 1931
Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2003 1:01 am

SCA: Sword construction

Post by carlyle »

This is a follow-on to my earlier post on sword balance.

Last night at practice, I (often unsuccessfully) fended off broadsword shots from Sir Brand (West Kingdom). For those who know him, Brand is not a particularly large man, but he is in very good physical condition. The blows he threw were exeedingly stout; truly "knightly" in their authority.

Afterward, we were discussing the fact that he, also, did not use a counterweight and, in the course of the dialogue, I took the opportunity to wield one of his swords. I was utterly amazed at how light it was! Now, I use -barely- 1.25" rattan (ofttimes a little smaller and then built up to legal requirement with tape). I do not shape or shave the blade portion at all. Because if this, I have always tried to select fairly dense rattan in the belief that it will last longer than less massive material.

Brand explained that about six years ago he and several others (including the same fellows with whom I was discussing counterweights and balance points) moved to larger-diameter-but-much-less-dense rattan for their swords. They start with 1.5-1.75 diameter stock and then shave down the sides to the desired minimum width. The resulting weapon is even lighter than my minimum-diameter sticks; and while the balance point is a good 2" or more beyond mine (one handsbreadth above the "cross" or basket), it still "moves" lighter than mine -- and clearly, is capable of still hitting with serious "heat" (as proven by the new bruises I am now sporting on my backside ;)).

Anyway, I am really confounded by this new information. As noted in my earlier post, I've been buidling broadswords the same way for nearly 25 years, and they have allowed me some small success in the past. Until now, any time I handled a weapon constructed from larger rattan or without a counterweight, I felt they were either overly heavy or unwieldy. Now, I'm not so sure, and I'm beginning to suspect that the current sensibility is superior to my long-held prejudice.

Do any of you use swords like Brand, or know someone who does? I'm really interested in hearing your collective opinions on this matter.

With new humility,

Alfred of Carlyle
West Kingdom
Saint-Sever
Archive Member
Posts: 1590
Joined: Thu Aug 24, 2000 1:01 am
Location: N. VA, among the noble Atlantians

Post by Saint-Sever »

I got clue'd into this years ago by the Jade/Fabian/Uther/Brand/et.al. cabal years ago. As an additional refinement, they also leave the last 2 inches or so of the tip intact, to make it last a little longer. using Big Heavy Westie-Style basket hilts, my swords usually balance within 4" of the hilt. Using Mandrake-style cross-and-pommel sets, you ought to be able to balance it right at the hilt, if you liked it that way.

My Ambitious Rattan Sword Project will be to (eventually) make a tourney sword starting with 2" (or mabybe even 2 1/2") rattan, and shave a distal taper on the blade, so that it is 2" thick at the hilt, and tapers down to 1 1/4" at the tip. I'm also going to put a fuller into the sides, and mount it with (a yet-unpurchased) mandrake hilt set. It ought to have a good look to it, and have much more "life" in it than most rattan batons.

We shall see.

M.
Post Reply