shield construction idea

[St. George]

I have re-thought my edgeless shield design. In my ongoing quest to make a shield that looks "right" and will last I have a new idea-

1) using an aluminum core, build up the edge using this shield edging:
http://www.windrosearmoury.com/zc/index ... ucts_id=95

2) evel out the face of the aluminum and edging using Bondo creating one unified surface.

2a) attachment screws could be applied at this time in countersunk holes.

3) Then apply a layer of fiberglass and resin to cover the entire shield, including wrapping over the edges and continuing partway onto the back.

4) Cover the back with a piece of canvas to cover the edges of the fiberglass.

5) paint appropriately, and attach straps, etc.

I think that this would solve the "no edging" issue, while also creating a shield that will last quite a long time- not indestructible, but pretty darned good.

Another variation might be to simply use canvas with a glue or resin holding it down.

Any thoughts?

Alaric

[Blaine de Navarre]

A few people around here are using that edging; everyone I've talked to is really happy with it, so I'm about to re-edge my shield with it.

I don't think the fiberglass would really add anything to the shield structurally, and might add unnecessary weight, so I would just stick with canvas and glue. The edge can also be covered with something as simple as a strip of leather, if the not-quite-period look of the leather edge doen't harsh your mellow.

I like your idea of using bondo to feather out the edge so there is not so obvious a "bulge" under the canvas.

[St. George]

I had considered the fiberglass because it gives a canvas like texture to paint on, and I thought it would be less prone to ripping than the canvas.

I am trying to get away from shields with edges, the look just doesn't work for me anymore, so I am experimenting with different ideas for that.

Alaric

[Murdock]

Anyone think of making em outta Kevlar?

I 've seen hardened kevlar i bet it would be expensive but i build about 4 shields a year.

If it lasted like 5 years i'd pay $300 or so for a shield

[Dagonet]

I recently made a shield using aluminum tubing for the edges. I cut a slice in the round tube using an angle grinder, then fit this channel over the edge of the aluminum blank. I then applied fiberglass and resin over the entire shield, with some extra layers over the edges. I then covered the shield with canvas.

The resulting shield was a bit light for me, but ive been fighting with aluminum and 1/4" ply for years. The edging held up well enough, with minimal denting ( the aluminum tube is made of significantly softer metal than the blank.) The only problem I encountered is that a portion of the fiberglass became detached from the face of the shield. I assume this is due to the flex of the shield blank when struck.

I am contemplating using additional layers of fiberglass for weight and strength. I am also investigating industrial strength resins that are designed for more high impact purposes. The price of these resins goes up with the quality, but hopefully it would be worth it.

It is also possible that I simply didnt attach the fiberglass 100% correctly. It was the first time I had worked with it and found it to be difficult at points.

[Corby de la Flamme]

Baron Reynard of Lochmere made my current shield. After a May-November season of regular use (including the Sapphire Joust Iron Man Tourney) it shows no degradation of its structure. The canvas has taken some hits.

However, its construction is probably beyond anyone lacking access to high end clamping, wood working and fiberglassing tools.

Reynard is a laurel for woodworking and a master boatbuilder who works specifically on racing yachts.

My previous Reynard shield lasted for several years and would probably still be in good shape if I hadn't cut into the back of it to reduce the weight.

Also, once you get used to a really, truly rigid shield, you'll never want to use one of those boingy, flappy aluminum blanks again.

Update: some of the pics were broken on the link above. Fixed now.

[Jehan de Pelham]

Murdock, you have one of Sir Vitus' shields?

John
Jehan de Pelham, esquire and servant of Sir Vitus
www.mron.org

[Gregoire de Lyon]

His Highness Dag uses an aluminum shield with aluminum bar stock welded around the edge, as well as a reinforcing plate at the top and bottom. It looks great, no edging required, and doesn't sound like a gong when hit. I believe His Highness has been using it for years.

I have recently had one made in a similar fashion. Other than employing an incompetent welder, thus requiring hours of grinding and filing of the edges, I love it. I cover the front with canvas and wrap the excess around the back and glue it down.

[Lord_Wolf]

Is there a 'commercial' name or application for this shield edging, or can you only obtain it from Windrose?

[Vitus von Atzinger]

My new shields rule- nothing comes close.

[Oswyn_de_Wulferton]

Does this stuff come in sizes that can accomodate thicker than 1/8"? Or can you pry it open for bigger than that? Does it work on wood shields?

[Giovanni Rocco]

Go to www.mcmaster.com put in page # 3537 or seach for edging

Giovanni

[SirBrand]

We started using that edging, what we refer to as "car door edging", out here in Caid several years ago, spreading the tech to the Spartans in the West and others. It's great stuff, but has some drawbacks.

Negatives:

It wears through quickly, exposing the little aluminum "U" shaped pieces through the rubber.

It comes off. The aluminum inside is not 6061 or anything, you can cut through the rubber and aluminum with ordinary scissors as I did today on a shield. When hit hard on the edge, or if you try and put it on with a plastic mallet, the aluminum inside bends open. So after enough hits to the edge the edging loses it's grip and sometimes comes off.

Paint doesn't stick to it very well at all.

Positives:

It looks great by itself, but in my opinion it makes a great 1st layer, held in place by a second layer over it. I think the Spartans used several layers of tape to keep theirs on. I usually use it now under whatever edging or hose is going on as the outside layer as it really prevents the aluminum edges from cutting through.

It conforms quickly to even complicated outlines.

It goes on fast, like in 5 minutes and holds itseld on well until the channels start to open up under abuse. Fantastic for quick edging, especially for war shields.

-B

[BdeB]

We call it Trim lock, and I use it on my shields, under the canvas cover. The canvas wears through much quicker than the trim lock. I usually get about 1.5 years out of a piece.

[Oswyn_de_Wulferton]

So would lacing around the edges work to hold it on? Trying to get away from bulky heater hose.

[Syrfinn]

Yeah, that should help, Oswyn.

One of the things I have been doing is using rubber cement on the edge, then put the edging on.

Though my next shield, I will be doing the canvas cover like Bryce was talking about.

[AJ]

On my new shield, I put on the trim-lok stuff, and then covered it with rawhide. I love the look and I hope the two of them together will be durable enough.

[Gest]

I have found the offered ideas very interesting. But one point is missing from the posts: estimated weight.

The weight of a shield is a very personal thing. And I don't wish to start a ruckus over it. Suffice it to say that both chocolate and vanilla are excellent flavors. And, as my grandpa always told me "Not everyone likes the same thing, if they did, they'd all be after grandma!"

I would be interested in estimates of weights for shields constructed by the various techniques offered, perhaps given by the categories of large, medium, and small where large is a roughly a heater 24"x36", medium a heater roughly 24"x30", and small anything smaller. I myself have no idea what the weights would be since I have no experience with fibreglass or bondo.

-- Gest

[Mac Thamhais]

My new shields rule- nothing comes close.

You can cover them with leather and look like something that walked out of a time machine. Sorry, but an aluminum shield will always look like an aluminum shield.

I'm just curious. If a wooden shield covered with leather etc etc, can look like something that walked out of a time machine, why can't an aluminum one be treated likewise? As long as it is covered in such a way that the aluminum is not visible, front or back, why couldn't one achieve a look that was just as good?

[Destichado]

because it's aluminum! *shockgasp!*




Not knocking Vitus's shields, they're amazing. But it's a truism that everything done well will look well done, and likewise everything done poorly will look poorly done. Aluminum is EASY, so the construction is, consequently, normally done quickly and without much care. Surprise of surprises, the shields normally look like crap. Prettily painted crap, but crap nonetheless.

[Mac Thamhais]

Okay, this I do not disagree with, shoddy work will come out looking shoddy. Fair enough.

But if an aluminum shield IS constructed with care, fabric or leather covered and so forth, can it not end up looking just as good as a wooden one so treated?

[Murdock]

it's still too thin and just never looks right

[Christophe de Frisselle]

One is wood and the other is aluminum.
[img]http://urswerks.homeip.net/shield/IMG00089sm.jpg[/img][img]http://urswerks.homeip.net/shield/IMG00092sm.jpg[/img][img]http://urswerks.homeip.net/shield/IMG00093sm.jpg[/img][img]http://urswerks.homeip.net/shield/IMG00090sm.jpg[/img]

[Mac Thamhais]

Is the aluminum one canvas or leather covered? or is it just painted directly? Can't tell from the pic alone.

[Christophe de Frisselle]

It's leather covered just like the wood one. Just an illustration to you question. The blue shield is coated with boilded linseed oil then painted. Which is why is looks shiny. I though it might make the leather more durable. While the black shield is just dyed with whilte paint.

[RoaK]

Go to www.mcmaster.com put in page # 3537 or seach for edging

Giovanni

Wow even got some 1/2 inch stuff...

[Mac Thamhais]

That being the case I have to ask, in both the front and back views, which is which? Just from the pic alone I honestly can't tell. Now if I were to see them in person, perhaps it would be glaringly obvious (and it probably already is for some here) but just from the image alone I would be hard pressed to designate one over the other.

From the back, the one on the left appears to be the wooden one, is this correct? From the front, with the shininess explained, I honestly have no idea.

Is either shield covered on the back as well as the front?

[Christophe de Frisselle]

The pictures show the back and front of both sheilds.

Here is larger pictures of the above.
http://urswerks.homeip.net/shield/IMG00089.jpg
http://urswerks.homeip.net/shield/IMG00092.jpg
http://urswerks.homeip.net/shield/IMG00093.jpg
http://urswerks.homeip.net/shield/IMG00090.jpg

It should be abit more obvious now, I think. Which one is it? That's the point of your question. Can you tell from across the field, the list, or walking by it in the pile on the ground? If you saw them in person and could handle them, sure you could tell. That's only because you could see the difference in the edge and sound when hit.

[Mac Thamhais]

Well as far as I'm concerned, you have proven my point. Just from looking at them, I can't tell them apart. Perhaps there are others who can, but by and large, these shields very clearly pass the ten foot rule or even the length of the sword rule. Thank you for your assistance.