I thought I would share a project that has kept me busy for about 100 hours over the last few weeks (yikes). I had a customer who purchased an arming doublet from Revival - sans any visible machine stitching.
With some helpful hints from my buddy, Tasha, we fit the garment. Once fitted, I made some alterations (so it would fit him quite close) - all sewn by hand. Quilting came next. The quilting pattern was based on the quilting evident on the CdB extant garment, per the Janet Arnold article (thanks again to Tasha for sending that along to me). After the quilting, some eyelets and voila.
My customer should be at an event this weekend and he's promised to send along some pics. I'll try to post them here when I get them.
that is outstanding... Any site with the pattern? And would this be appropriate for someone in Germany circa 1370-90 or so instead of a gambeson with holes to point the amor?
Sieghart
Sigurd Fjalarson,Heinrich von Faulkner
-But you can call me Randy
"Praise no day 'til evening; No wife 'til on her pyre; No sword 'til tested; No maid 'til bedded; No ice 'til crossed; No ale 'til drunk." ~ Havamal
When you ask if there is any site for the pattern?? Do you mean is it documentable?? Yes. In 1991, Janet Arnold wrote an article titled "The Jupon or Coat-Armour of the Black Prince in Canterbury Cathedral". I believe it's on page 19, where she shows a drawing of the quilting pattern that is on the Charles de Bois pourpoint. (Thanks again to Tasha for providing it to me). This pourpoint has been given a date of 1363.
There are other quilting patterns that can be seen in illuminations (Lancelot du Lac - all horizontal). In the Moyen Age magazine (Mar/April 2003 issue) - there is an article on the CdB pourpoint. On pg. 37 - there is a painting showing a padded garment, where the body is quite clearly quilted in the same pattern as the CdB. The sleeves have the quilting on the grande assiettes continuing all the way down the sleeve (no directional quilting difference at the elbow). This pic is dated to approx 1361.
Is this what you meant?
Re: German?? I honestly don't know. I'm just not that familiar with German effigies or drawings/illuminations. Most of my collection revolves around French and English. sorry.
I didn't use a website for the pattern of the quilting. Just the research. Drawing the pattern onto the garment was done using the existing seams and either a 1 or 2 finger width (approx. 3/4 inch or 1 1/2 inch) between each seam line.
The garment itself was pre-made by Revival (sans any visible machine stitching).
Very nice. I am assuming that it laces in a zig-zag,ladder pattern up the front. Man I wish someone would do a Dummies for the GA sleeve. I have the most trouble figuring it out, even after looking Tasha's site it still confuses me. Thanks for the pics.
iaenmor wrote:Very nice. I am assuming that it laces in a zig-zag,ladder pattern up the front. Man I wish someone would do a Dummies for the GA sleeve. I have the most trouble figuring it out, even after looking Tasha's site it still confuses me. Thanks for the pics.
I don't really explain how the G.A. works on that one article of mine -- it's about the G.A. in general, but not very specifically about the tailoring and exactly how it goes together and works. Sorry about that. I've been promising that for a long time. One of these days.
WOW- that looks awesome. really nice job. it semms like it has a really great shape to it. really want to see it on a person. what would one of these set someone back?
Tasha, I still think yours is one of the best explanation of how the sleeve works and the drawing does help with trying to figure out the patterning. I just really suck at making my own patterns. Until then I will eagerly await one day.
Tasha McG wrote:I don't really explain how the G.A. works on that one article of mine -- it's about the G.A. in general, but not very specifically about the tailoring and exactly how it goes together and works. Sorry about that. I've been promising that for a long time. One of these days.
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