tutorial of curved shield
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tutorial of curved shield
http://hightowercrossbows.com/shieldhowto.htm
I found this a couple of days ago, has any one tried making a curved shield this way?
I found this a couple of days ago, has any one tried making a curved shield this way?
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- Sean Powell
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I use a similar technique for forming my wooden shield blanks (cheeper for newbies, I fight w/ aluminum and a Vitus wood shield personally) BUT I had 'help' when cutting the D shapes from 2x6's and they never lined up properly when on the form. Instead I have twice as many D shapes and they are connected by 2x4's so they can be adjusted up and down as necessary. I also use 4 ratchet straps and C-clamps only on the corners rather then C-clamps on all of the edges. I just happen to have old ratchet-straps that I can use and not enough C-clamps.
The rest of the technique for edging is pretty standard although I like to add aluminum C-chanel around the ply-wood edges and before the rope for better durability.
These make decent shields but they are not as cheep as you might expect and they don't last as long as an aluminum shield or better yet one of Vitus's epoxy coated shields.
Good luck.
Sean
The rest of the technique for edging is pretty standard although I like to add aluminum C-chanel around the ply-wood edges and before the rope for better durability.
These make decent shields but they are not as cheep as you might expect and they don't last as long as an aluminum shield or better yet one of Vitus's epoxy coated shields.
Good luck.
Sean
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http://www.angelfire.com/mi4/olafvanta/ ... hields.htm
I have made a press in this manner and it worked very well.
Although I would recommend mounting the bottom's of the four sections onto a piece of plywood.
Regards,
Edmond
I have made a press in this manner and it worked very well.
Although I would recommend mounting the bottom's of the four sections onto a piece of plywood.
Regards,
Edmond
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That one looks a little more thought throug then the one i foundEdmond De'Veraux wrote:http://www.angelfire.com/mi4/olafvanta/ ... hields.htm
I have made a press in this manner and it worked very well.
Although I would recommend mounting the bottom's of the four sections onto a piece of plywood.
Regards,
Edmond
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We made a pattern out of poster board for the curved wooden slats that make the actual form so they would all be even.
We mounted them on 2x4's instead of a single sheet of plywood, this made clamping significantly easier.
We used 4 clamps; one of each corner, with angle iron under them to keep the middle from mushing upward.
Works great, though we are unhappy with the depth of the blanks. We will be making a new one that is deeper.
We have been selling shield blanks to the local SCArks to recoup the cost of our press and our own shields, it's our new strategy of "paying for our hobbies with our hobbies".
We mounted them on 2x4's instead of a single sheet of plywood, this made clamping significantly easier.
We used 4 clamps; one of each corner, with angle iron under them to keep the middle from mushing upward.
Works great, though we are unhappy with the depth of the blanks. We will be making a new one that is deeper.
We have been selling shield blanks to the local SCArks to recoup the cost of our press and our own shields, it's our new strategy of "paying for our hobbies with our hobbies".
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- William of Stonebridge
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I agree. However, I like the flexibility of moving the sections around to accommodate different sized shield blanks. Mounting them to a board would not let you do this. Storage of the sections are easier if they are not all attached to each other. Below is a 24x24 tournament shield blank. If you are always going to make one size blank all the time, and storage is not a problem, connecting them together might make life easier while pressing your shield.Edmond De'Veraux wrote:http://www.angelfire.com/mi4/olafvanta/ ... hields.htm
I have made a press in this manner and it worked very well.
Although I would recommend mounting the bottom's of the four sections onto a piece of plywood.
Regards,
Edmond
Respectfully,
William
William
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Thank's for posting this. I know most of my posts have been "How do I do this?" and "How do I do that?", so I was holding off for a week or so before I posted another How do I...
I will price it out and see if it is will be cheaper project for me to do rather than buying a aluminum sheild (and making my wife mad for spending too much money). Heck, I might be able to tie the 2x6's in with a bedroom loft project I am doing for my girls.
Armyeric
I will price it out and see if it is will be cheaper project for me to do rather than buying a aluminum sheild (and making my wife mad for spending too much money). Heck, I might be able to tie the 2x6's in with a bedroom loft project I am doing for my girls.
Armyeric
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Heres the one I made. I have a top half to it but found that I personaly prefer using the traps instead.
This one will do a shield up to 26" wide and 36" long.
[img]http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/ ... 010128.jpg[/img]
This one will do a shield up to 26" wide and 36" long.
[img]http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/ ... 010128.jpg[/img]
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If you feel good, You fight better."
So make it look good
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I've always had good results with 4 pipe clamps and some drywall screws.
I start with a 1/4 sheet of ply wood, Glue them together lavishly, use the pipe clamps to get the right curve, screw in drywall screws around the edge, let dry, and cut out the sheild shape.
And pipe clamps are easy to store....
Haldan
I start with a 1/4 sheet of ply wood, Glue them together lavishly, use the pipe clamps to get the right curve, screw in drywall screws around the edge, let dry, and cut out the sheild shape.
And pipe clamps are easy to store....
Haldan
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Got any pics, Haldan? I'm having trouble visualizing it working with clamps without some sort of form.
Thanks,
Christopher
Thanks,
Christopher
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You don't absolutely need a form to bend the plies -- you can bend in just air. These pipe clamps were simply placed across the rectangular blank, bending the glued sheets into them. You can do the same thing with cables and turnbuckles or ratcheting nylon tiedown straps. Tighten, start the bend with a good shove to the centerline, and tighten down more to hold it there.RenJunkie wrote:Got any pics, Haldan? I'm having trouble visualizing it working with clamps without some sort of form.
Thanks,
Christopher
The minus is that because of leverage effects, most of the bending power is right in the middle of the shield. The resulting curve once the glue has dried is more parabolic than circular. Forming ribs will shape the curvature into a circular arc.
Eric, while there's room for taste, a good many people like a curve about three inches deep at the center. In bending wooden shields, make the form curvature some deeper, like four to five inches, to compensate for the wood springing back.What is the arc that most put into their sheilds...or is it personal preference?
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- Morejello
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Re: tutorial of curved shield
I've used Sir Bartholomew's method several times, to good effect. I've made kites and a center-held oval, but a heater would be plenty easy to do.Cossack Odo wrote:http://hightowercrossbows.com/shieldhowto.htm
I found this a couple of days ago, has any one tried making a curved shield this way?
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Mine is 24x48. That seems to be the period dimension. I don't think there is a standard or average.Cossack Odo wrote:Dimensions for a "standard" kite shield, what are they?
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From what I've seen on the MCS effigy site, the heaters get shorter as time rolls on. Earlier periods have long heaters, sorta like a kite without the round top.
Course, it could also be artistic liscence. But they sure look longer earlier in the Middle Ages.
Thanks for the diagrams. I'll probably see what happens using that. I plan on using every technique I can do practically and see what's best in each.
Thanks,
Christopher
Course, it could also be artistic liscence. But they sure look longer earlier in the Middle Ages.
Thanks for the diagrams. I'll probably see what happens using that. I plan on using every technique I can do practically and see what's best in each.
Thanks,
Christopher
War kittens?!!!
"Born to lose. Live to win."
Historical Interpreter- Jamestown Settlement Museum
Master's Candidate, East Carolina University
Graduate of The College of William & Mary in Virginia
"Born to lose. Live to win."
Historical Interpreter- Jamestown Settlement Museum
Master's Candidate, East Carolina University
Graduate of The College of William & Mary in Virginia
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apart from the jig:
I take it most of you layer your wood.
For as far as we can easily establish most shields seem to have been made from one layer of wood (and gesso and whatnot). I've mostly been working obn 15th century shields. The Met has a shield that was investigated because they were taking later painting off it and that is one piece, despite a very complex curve. In the Frossairt exhibition here at the armouries we had a pavise that was one layer, etc, etc.
How would you guys go about forming a complex curve in a single layer of wood?
I take it most of you layer your wood.
For as far as we can easily establish most shields seem to have been made from one layer of wood (and gesso and whatnot). I've mostly been working obn 15th century shields. The Met has a shield that was investigated because they were taking later painting off it and that is one piece, despite a very complex curve. In the Frossairt exhibition here at the armouries we had a pavise that was one layer, etc, etc.
How would you guys go about forming a complex curve in a single layer of wood?
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I aim to make a jousting shield that is bent towards the blows, is 54cm high, 42 cm wide and curves to a depth of 20 cm, and is 25-30 mm thick
I just don't want to carve it, really, but building the jig will use more wood than just buying a block and cutting it up, I think.
I just don't want to carve it, really, but building the jig will use more wood than just buying a block and cutting it up, I think.
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That's a pretty big chalenge. First I would start with a section of old-growth hickory a good 30" in diameter. I would take a section of trunk 10-20% longer then the final desired shield length. I would split it in half to make 2 shields. While the wood was green I would try to use as much of the outer layer of wood as possible because it is the strongest. I would adze in the rough shape and then scrape/plane it down to the finish shape. It would create a LOT of wood chips but old-growth wood wasn't as rare then as it is now. It would take a damned long time but that's OK because labor was cheaper in period.Arne Koets wrote: How would you guys go about forming a complex curve in a single layer of wood?
There is a reason I wouldn't do this for a practice combat shield when I have aluminum available.
Sean