I am doing this Jingasa for someone and have 2 more tops started.
I was wondering if Anyone was interested in one. I was thinking 250 Painted / 300 powder coated. Also this one's top is set back: I can also do them set flat (IE brim Parallel to the ground)
Jingasa Prototype
- Tatsuo Okami
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Jingasa Prototype
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William S. Giltner
Lrd Tatsuo Okami
Iron River Armoury
In service to the Craft
Lrd Tatsuo Okami
Iron River Armoury
In service to the Craft
- Charles Alexander
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- Tatsuo Okami
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- Effingham
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I think a more steep-sided cone might work better -- but it's good start!!
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- Kenwrec Wulfe
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I agree with the more steep sided cone - would also center the cone a little more on the base and not "tip" it backwards.
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- Cian of Storvik
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Excuse the rough interpretation of the "original", and I've never made a helm, but I've owned enough of them that I would suggest you do as others suggest:
-Deepen the cone more acutely (deeper). If I'm not mistaken, There looks like there will be a sight and nose alignment issue because of the shallow bowl, especially once padding is added.
-To tilt it back, don't push the lid back. Instead, drop the level of the back and/or raise the front.
-Pay attention to where the centerline of the helm will lay.
Lastly, you seem to be pretty good with doing the bar work. I'd suggest you try doing the bar grill circumfencially around the entire head rather then having the sheet steel around the back and sides. This is more popular with kettle helms.
See illustration.
-Cian
-Deepen the cone more acutely (deeper). If I'm not mistaken, There looks like there will be a sight and nose alignment issue because of the shallow bowl, especially once padding is added.
-To tilt it back, don't push the lid back. Instead, drop the level of the back and/or raise the front.
-Pay attention to where the centerline of the helm will lay.
Lastly, you seem to be pretty good with doing the bar work. I'd suggest you try doing the bar grill circumfencially around the entire head rather then having the sheet steel around the back and sides. This is more popular with kettle helms.
See illustration.
-Cian
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- jingasa.gif (15.21 KiB) Viewed 244 times
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- Tatsuo Okami
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Ok.... These are good comments guys thanx. I was considering a steeper sid for my first pattern but it seemed a Little TOO coney. well see what 2-3 inches out of the wedge cut makes it look like.
So nobody likes it the way it is hunh.. good thing I waited to attach the tops. I can recut them and try again.
So nobody likes it the way it is hunh.. good thing I waited to attach the tops. I can recut them and try again.
William S. Giltner
Lrd Tatsuo Okami
Iron River Armoury
In service to the Craft
Lrd Tatsuo Okami
Iron River Armoury
In service to the Craft
A steeper cone and more centered on the whole helmet.
I made one of these a few years back and it was fun to play around with...
O.o
I made one of these a few years back and it was fun to play around with...
O.o
Hjalmar of Sognefjord
Squire to Duke Sir John The Bearkiller
Barony of Grey Niche, Kingdom of Glean Ahbann.
"True nobility is not measured by being superior to another, but rather by becoming superior to oneself."
Squire to Duke Sir John The Bearkiller
Barony of Grey Niche, Kingdom of Glean Ahbann.
"True nobility is not measured by being superior to another, but rather by becoming superior to oneself."
