The Armour Archive

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This one looks external http://users.stlcc.edu/mfuller/novgorod/NovgorodMus235leatherCutWork.jpg It is hard to tell though, as leather does not survive history very well, mostly it is the fittings that exist. I'm not sure I agree. There appears to be the remains of a folded edge just inside of the ...

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Mine is from Stahlgilde. Been going well for a couple years so far.

http://www.stahlgilde.com/index.php?rou ... ry&path=59

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I'm sure a lot of other people will give info, but here are some baseline things would be good:

Welding (of all kinds)
Fabrication
Any kind of shop class where you learn tools like the drill press, sanders, cutting torches, vices, band saws, etc.

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This one looks external
http://users.stlcc.edu/mfuller/novgorod ... utWork.jpg

It is hard to tell though, as leather does not survive history very well, mostly it is the fittings that exist.

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John: that piece is one of the main examples of Cuir boilli. Hardened veg-tanned leather (well, veg-tanned is more modern, but the same equivalent). That is the main form of tooling, which is cutting and compressing. This thread is discussing whether it is possible to tool rawhide, which is an entir...

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So it would be better to say it can be formed, as opposed to tooled? (In the sense of comparison to leather tooling, which specifically refers to cutting and compressing the leather to create designs)

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Ernst: That one looks like it is stippled (pin pricks) on the front, and painted on the back. some indentations, likely where it was pressed into a form. I see nothing that would indicate proper leather "tooling"; no cut marks, no depressions. It is decorated yes. But not in the traditional tooling ...

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Fearghus: Carved as in cuts in the rawhide that go partially into it, or Carved as in cutting out pieces and letting it dry into a pattern?

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I'm going to say no. What makes tooling work is that you are cutting (unless you use a stamp) and compressing the leather. This makes it depress comparatively and thus have a pattern. Then adding water (or another substance) and heating it you cause it to shrink further by swelling the fibres and th...

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1) Use a padded coif 2) depending on style of helm, you can rivet/stitch a liner to the inside of the helm as well. You want this to be a suspension style (so the top of the helm does not sit directly on the top of your head) So you could do padded coif, mail coif, then a suspension liner in the hel...

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I highly recommend taking up mkrs on those fingertips unless you want to do a lot of cursing. I made one hand so far and shaping the 301 HH by hand is a pain when trying to get it looking like that. But it is also a great learning tool for how to move metal efficiently.

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Here are a couple pictures I took. It took me a bit before I learned how to move it right. I've taken a steel falchon hit to the hand wearing these gauntlets right where it meets the 2nd joint and didn't lose a finger, so it works :) (20ga 301 half hard). Sadly because of the plate layering and me n...

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301 is a great steel if you are not heat treating, but it work hardens fairly fast and you can't anneal it. I've been making gauntlets out of 301 half hard (20ga) and had a couple fingertips that after I got it shaped fairly well I could not move it any more due to hardening.

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One more thing that is interesting, but the seam lines on historical pants are reversed from how we think of modern seam lines for the most part. eg: There will be a seam from the front of each thigh, that goes down and into the crotch. Modern ones put these seams at the back or eliminate them. Also...

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my couple of cents (I'm not a massive historical authority on this, so please double-check what I say, as I may be wrong). The jerkin appears to be a little less padded than I would expect. The loops at the shoulders, are those proper period? I'm not sure. Gloves would go a long way to completing th...

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I used 9oz vege-tan leather for my CoP. It is definitely heavier weight than needed, however I tooled it a lot as well, and wanted the thickness for the tooling. It has lasted me for over 2 years with no leather issues (just doing a saddle-soap and mink oil treatment after a year), and I've fight AC...

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Hourglass is rigid to rigid, making a channel. any sword hitting your wrist/hand will end up in the middle of that V. It is possibly easier to make since it is a rigid connection for the most part. For a visby style, you have to have a softer material making the gauntlet to cuff junction, to allow f...

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Sean's answer is the correct one. You have to clip the corner. So any area which is a tight turn you need to make notches in the corner after sewing, before turning. The tighter it is, the more notches you need (normally V shaped). when turned, these notches will prevent it bunching up in the corner...

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I use a sugarload closed face helm, been fighting for a few years. My experience is that you get used to it. You start looking for tells in the shoulders and core body a lot, and some responses have to be automatic (eg: his sword just dropped over to the side, low block that side. Covers 90% of shot...

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Releasing hold on these. Sorry lost, something came up

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I'll take 'em lost. Can use them as a base to finish out the rest of them.

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In one on one SCA combat, they are fine. In a melee, probably a bad idea. Reason? Mass. Even if you are in shape, you have a lot of extra mass on you for your armour (especially if you are in white harness). This means if you get twisted and go down in a melee (more likely physical contact) then you...

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So as a differing viewpoint on this, I fight with the EMP (Empire of Medieval Pursuits), which has much more contact allowed than SCA (grappling, lower legs, hands). Our minimums aren't much higher than the SCA (we add shin protection as minimum) but most of our fighers have a good part of a full ki...

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rough from the hammer is still around. Not full soupcan, but very affordable.

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My concerns with these: 1) No pictures of the inside. It looks like it is raw leather there, not lined. So I would not trust it over anything nice. 2) The rivets look to be hollow core or snap rivets (would tell more with an inside picture), which are not typically used in load bearing armour 3) It ...

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Chain is not considered protective for SCA combat purposes. At all. It is not "rigid armour". The way most people get around this is either wear a surcoat over your lammelar (so you can't see it), which is fairly period over chain, or wear chain, but have hidden armour plates under it (barrel plasti...

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I would be interested in the shirt, but I need like a 48" chest to fit me over my gambison (with 0 slack), so that is not going to work.

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Wow, I really don't have the injuries like you guys, but here is mine. Taken: Sampson took a greatsword at practice and I was still in leathers (loaner kit). he nailed my left shoulder on a diagonal. Hurt, but ok, keep practicing. I'll protect the left shoulder more. BAM. right shoulder in the mirro...

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I use a leather bound CoP (7-8oz), and know people with cloth. there is not much of a breathability difference. between the gambison and metal not much escapes. I've been using my leather CoP for high intensity rattan (Including grappling) and some steel (more HEMA) for a year now. Haven't had to re...

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I use Mjolnir for that. What I call my tiny peening hammer I got for $3 at harbour fright. It is an 8oz stubby hammer, but you can swing it from the base within a helm, and the peening end is pretty severe, so it peens well (Not so great for dishing though). It got it as a joke, called it Mjolnir as...

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I have used a 2"x70" belt sander (working area is about 10" long) with a medium grit belt on it. It knocks my edges down very quickly. I chewed up a couple when deburring 301 steel if i caught it wrong, but had no problems with mild steel. Length of the belt means I don't have to worry about the hea...

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There is this one too:

http://www.woodenswords.com/ProductDeta ... de=PH-Head

Just as legal.

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14GA? must weigh a ton. Most people I've run into are using 16 or 18ga on the legs, especially in stainless.

(I've got 14ga mild brig greaves I made and they are heavy, but oh man can they take punishment)

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Dollar store small bowls make easy shield bosses (not for rattan combat, but would look right). Just cut off the rim, drill some holes and bolt on.

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Hey seb message Mad Matt. He makes armour and is on the Toronto area. He could road trip to get it from you potentially.

Re: stitching on viking pouches

Re: Does anyone make a longer gambeson?

Re: Education for a smithing future

Re: stitching on viking pouches

Re: tooling rawhide

Re: tooling rawhide

Re: tooling rawhide

Re: tooling rawhide

Re: tooling rawhide

Re: Great Helm Setup: Historical Accuracy vs Modern Protecti

Re: work hardening 410 spring stainless

Re: work hardening 410 spring stainless

Re: work hardening 410 spring stainless

Re: Please critique this Agincourt kit

Re: Please critique this Agincourt kit

Re: Question about leather for corrazina

Re: Hardened leather demi gauntlets: Hourglass or Wisby cuff

Re: Squared Corners

Re: Questions about fighting in great helms

Re: 14th/15th century stainless hour glass demi gauntlets

Re: 14th/15th century stainless hour glass demi gauntlets

Re: Hobnails and Cleats, how dangerous are they?

Re: Heavy Fighting: Questions From a Confused Outsider

Re: Soupcan knees wanted

Re: Leather corsets

Re: Chain maille

Re: FS: Corazina, Arms, Maille, Spaulders, Gauntlets

Re: Single Most Painful Shot given/Received By You?

Re: Coat of Plates-Cloth vs Leather?

Re: Peen Rivets inside helm

Re: Deburr / Finish edges?

Re: seeking sca legal warhammer head

Re: FS 14g stainless steel leg harness

Re: Middle School Armor Project--fast, easy and cheap???

Re: 4'X8' stainless 304 for sale