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Klapp visor - updated 01/08/10
Posted: Fri Nov 27, 2009 2:53 pm
by Tableau
Hey guys,
So I'm working on a bascinet with a klapp visor, and I'm at the part where I'm raising the oculars. Most of the rough forming is done, but my question is this: How do I go about sharpening the indented area right in between the eyes? Also, how do I make a crisp edge all around the occulars, where they meet the body of the visor?
Thanks in advance.

Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 12:02 pm
by Tableau
No one has advice? Am I asking a valid question?
Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 12:23 pm
by GvR
Give it some time. Weekends aren't the best time to ask as many are at events or just spending time with the family.
I am watching for the answer too. Your project is beyond my skills, but I am interested none the less.
Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 12:36 pm
by Jestyr
While I have no idea how to do what you are asking, I am pretty sure there was a discussion about this a number of months ago. I think it was discussed betwen MattMaus and MadMatt about whether welding and grinding, or just punching with a chisel was better. Do some searching and you may find it.
(I am not sure about the people involved or the length of time ago it was.)
Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 12:47 pm
by Vitus von Atzinger
On Monday morning you will get plenty of answers.
Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 1:12 pm
by Tableau
You guys are right. I'm getting a bit too antsy.
Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 4:59 pm
by Jan van Nyenrode
Hi,
I would suggest making the occulars a little deeper. Then work the outside over a square stake like one would clean op a crease. The lower 'inside' corners I planish from the inside out over my anvil corner.
Also from the picture I would dish a bit deeper at the nose area. Also I would have slightly slanted the occulars instead of having them straight across. See attachment.
Cheers,
Max
Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 5:28 pm
by Jon Terris
I use the sharp edges of a stake or anvil, hammer from the inside against the flat it to sharpen up the sides and then hammer from the outside over the edge to get the corners/ angles.
I would be tempted to make the slot slightly thinner (or extend the raised areas either side of it) they could be a little more pronounced IMHO.
Looks good though,
JonT
Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 6:12 pm
by Tableau
Thanks for the advice, guys.
I will definitely raise the occulars further. I hadn't notice that.
The visor looks goofier with the wide occulars, but I will probably leave them that wide just because this is for SCA combat.
Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 1:12 am
by Baron Alcyoneus
When you finish, don't cut the hole out, remove as little as possible, and fold the metal back inside to reinforce it.
Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 2:04 am
by Jehan de Pelham
That's super advice, because the ocularia take a beating. Especially the left one.
Best,
John
Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 1:53 pm
by Tableau
Damn, I wish I had read that advice earlier. I already cut out the eyes. Oh well.
Anyway, here are pictures of the finished visor. The helm is almost done. I just need to finish the hinge attachment and as verveilles and an aventail. And a liner and chin strap, of course.
Questions and comments are welcome.
Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 2:00 pm
by Richard de Scolay
Turned out great!
Is the hole pattern based on anything historical?
Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 2:11 pm
by Tableau
Richard de Scolay wrote:Turned out great!
Is the hole pattern based on anything historical?
The breaths? No, I pretty much made them up. Although they may be plagiarized off of other reproduction helms I've seen.
Hi
Posted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 3:49 am
by Pitbull Armory
Hi Tableau, Nice job on the Klapp there. What did you use to shape the Occulars?
Take care
Pitbull
Posted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 10:33 am
by Sean Powell
Jon Terris wrote:I use the sharp edges of a stake or anvil, hammer from the inside against the flat it to sharpen up the sides and then hammer from the outside over the edge to get the corners/ angles.
Looks good though,
JonT
I would recomend this technique as well. Be certain that the anvil face (or generally a horn with 2 good edged) is as smooth as you would keep your hammer faces... but the answer is irrelevant as you have already gone past this point.

Looks pretty good.
Sean