alright so i am going to attempt to make a pair of bazubands. I have a couple of patterns but none that i am really set on. i was wondering if anyone else out there had some patterns for some leather bazubands and how to make them the correct size. how do i need to measure my arm and where do i need to apply the measurements to the patterns? i am pretty decent with leather work but i don't want to waste a lot of leather trying to get the fit right.
any and all patterns and tips would be greatly appreciated.
Bazuband info
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Konstantin the Red
- Archive Member
- Posts: 26713
- Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2001 1:01 am
- Location: Port Hueneme CA USA
Bazubands are vambraces with attached elbow pockets.
Length overall: point of elbow to 1" short of that protruding bone on your wrist.
Establish suitable length for the half-gutter on the inside of the forearm, if you are putting anything there, and you likely would prefer to.
Circumferences: @ wrist, @ largest part of forearm muscles, entire elbow at crease of elbow, bent. Figure for padding in the manner you desire, as they all work about equally well.
You don't need anything exotic about spacing the end of the bazus' elbow cup, or perhaps more properly spoon. Just room for your elbow's point and 1/2" closed cell, and it should be deep enough to give the mandatory 3-point coverage. You could achieve that with metal roundels, late 13th/early 14th century style.
Length overall: point of elbow to 1" short of that protruding bone on your wrist.
Establish suitable length for the half-gutter on the inside of the forearm, if you are putting anything there, and you likely would prefer to.
Circumferences: @ wrist, @ largest part of forearm muscles, entire elbow at crease of elbow, bent. Figure for padding in the manner you desire, as they all work about equally well.
You don't need anything exotic about spacing the end of the bazus' elbow cup, or perhaps more properly spoon. Just room for your elbow's point and 1/2" closed cell, and it should be deep enough to give the mandatory 3-point coverage. You could achieve that with metal roundels, late 13th/early 14th century style.
"The Minstrel Boy to the war is gone..."
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Konstantin the Red
- Archive Member
- Posts: 26713
- Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2001 1:01 am
- Location: Port Hueneme CA USA
Acrylic floor finish is a good, paint-it-on inside and out sort of method. Or soak the leather by immersion. Floor finish is inexpensive, and the technique is cold.
Baking cased leather in the oven is even less costly. Search on "water hardened/hardening/hardened leather" and you will find everything we've got on the method. This technique is of course hot -- if not very. You may wish, for the price of a jug of acrylic floor finish, to buy a nice big easy-to-read oven thermometer, as ovens can be a little flaky temperature wise way down low in the 175-200 F range.
Baking cased leather in the oven is even less costly. Search on "water hardened/hardening/hardened leather" and you will find everything we've got on the method. This technique is of course hot -- if not very. You may wish, for the price of a jug of acrylic floor finish, to buy a nice big easy-to-read oven thermometer, as ovens can be a little flaky temperature wise way down low in the 175-200 F range.
"The Minstrel Boy to the war is gone..."
