In the last installment, I showed how we can plan out an articulated assembly by letting the parts fall on a curve, rather than a straight line. Today I'd like to take that further by showing a series of identical or near identical lames that all fall on a relatively small radius.
This diagram shows an assembly of four identical lames. In the upper figure, they are all in their primary lock positions and fall on a portion of a circle.
In the lower figure that same assembly has been straightened out till the lames are in their secondary locks.
There are two basic ways to make mitten gauntlets. They can be made to approximate the movements of the fingers as a smooth and continuous curve or they can be made to bend at each of the three places where fingers bend. I will address the smooth type today and deal with the angular type in a future post.
The assemblies I have just shown have uniformly shaped lames. This is not our end goal today, but I think we should start here because they are easier to understand.
Lets start with a "generating circle" of an arbitrary radius. For this example I have used 1 3/4" or 44mm. I have drawn a vertical and horizontal at 90°, and with the compass at the same setting, I've found the locations of the lines which bisect those at 45°. These lines were chosen for ease of layout.
The inner circle represents where the pivot points will be, and this has arbitrarily be set to make the space between the two circles be 5/8" or 16mm. Where the inner circle intersects the layout spokes I've drawn circles of about 3/8" or 10m diameter. These represent the amount of metal that will support the pivots.
In this picture I am using a machinist's angle gauge set at 45° to scribe out the locations of the "lock lines". The vertices of the angles are set at the places where the spokes cross the generating circle. Note that the angle between the lock lines is is equal to the angle between the spokes. This will yield articulation which will move the amount we need to go from the circle to straight.
In this picture, I've drawn lines parallel to the left hand lock lines and tangent to the pivot circles. This will form the underlapping material of the lame. In addition to that I've drawn lines to represent the lower edges of each lame. These are tangent to adjacent pivot circles.
Here, the underlapps are shown dotted and the articular edge of the lames are darkened. Some of the construction lines have been erased just to emphasize the edge lines.
Lastly, the upper curved horizon lines are established. Note how they follow the construction circle until just before the lock lines on the right. The horizon lines then dip down inside the construction circle by about one metal thickness and continue that way till they reach the other lock line which marks the edge of the underlap.
This will produce the four lame model at the beginning of the post. If one manipulates the elements of the model on the light table or in bits of flat cardboard, the articulations will go from one lock to the other freely. Unfortunately one can not conveniently model this in three dimensional cardboard because it relies on the synclastic curvature of the plates to make the locking surfaces be in the right place, as well as providing clearance for the underlapping edge.
As I said at the beginning of this post, we will need something a bit different from the first example to make a proper mitten gauntlet finger assembly. This is because fingers taper toward the tips, and the depth of the lames should taper as well. A series of identical lames would work, but a series of lames that tapers distally works better, looks better, and is by far the more common thing in authentic work.
Much of the design of a model for the tapered assembly will be similar to what I have shown above, but with a couple of differences. I will also begin with dimensions which have worked for me in the past. The resulting model with feature five lames in total. That seems to be the most common number for full length finger assemblies. The next most common is seven. I don't know why, but it seems to be so.
Like before, we begin with a generating circle. In this case the radius will be 1 5/8" or 41mm. This should make a good "size medium".
Next, we set the compass to the distance we want between pivots. I have found that 11/16" 16.5mm works well for the radial (thumb) side of size "medium" gauntlets.
With the previous example we set all the pivots on one circle. Here, because the lames will get shallower as we move out to the finger tips, we are going to use a series of radii. Each successive pivot will be closer to the generating circle by about a metal thickness. For the first one, we will set the compass to strike an arc that's 9/16" 14mm below the generating circle. The place where the two arcs intersect is our first pivot location.
We then set the compass at that pivot and strike another arc at our pivot spacing distance (11/16" 16.5mm). The compass is then returned to the center and set for the next pivot radius, which we recall is about a metal thickness closer to the generating circle. This process is continued until we have set six pivot locations. The last one will not actually be a pivot, but only serves to make the terminal lame be a similar size to the others.
The next place where the procedure differs from the previous one is that each pivot will need a different angle between the "lock lines". This is because the angles between the "spokes" are not the same, but get smaller from proximal to distal in the series. So.... we use the angle gauge to measure the angle between the first two spokes.....
... and transfer that to the first pivot to draw the lock lines. We can just leave the angle gauge set, and not even look at the number. The gauge is set so that spoke evenly bisects the angle and the lines are traced against the gauge.
It should look like this.
Here we see that the angle between spokes 2 and 3 is a bit smaller than that between 1 and 2. This is as it should be.
Adjust the angle gauge to match this angle and transfer the angle to the location of the second pivot.
We continue measuring each successive spoke angle and transferring that angle to the next pivot till we run out.
From here on in it's more like the first example. This shows how a 3/8" 10mm circle is made around each pivot point, and also the non-pivot point at the end of the series.
Like before, lines are drawn parallel to the left hand lock lines and tangent to the pivot circles.
The lower edges of the lames are established with lines tangent to adjacent pivot circles.
Here we see all the important lines darkened. Like before, the upper horizon line deviates from the generating circle just before the right lock line to allow for underlap. In this case I've shown the terminal lame finished off with a sunk border and roping. Any part of that lame past the right lock line can be altered and it will still work. I've also shown the angles what were generated for each articulation. These angles will be different if any of the other parameters are changed, but they will always get smaller from proximal to distal.
This last image shows how the assembly will interact with the fingers flexed and extended. The thumb has been omitted for clarity.
In a future post, I will address what happens at the proximal knuckles.
This has been surprisingly difficult to write up. I hope that you will point out anything that is not clear so I can edit to clarify.
Mac