The Armour Archive

The reason I asked is to try and figure out if you could make some $ on this. There's no reason in giving it away and if you have followed the business plan then we have to find a way to cut your costs. So if was just playing with the idea... Watercutting, they could probably do ten at a time, it's just a question about the price. Is there anyone near you that could do it?

Personally I think $90 is still a fair price but then I charge around $250 for a fairly simple one. That one is finished and ready to use, of course.

Good luck with your project!

WooHoo!! I just got mine today!!!! That pre-formed top is extraordinarily thick, and the rest of it is at least 1.6mm, so it is SCA ok. I didn't get the chance to start on it today, but I will be starting tomorrow. Gotta charge the camera batteries and hope I don't forget to take pics after every single step.

Thanks for the rivets Hal. I was worried I'd have to use nails again!

Good luck Arty,

Remember; if you want flared eye slots, do that before you rivet the front face in place.

I like to use the edge of my alloy dishing block. It is soft enough to give a nice radius to the bend line and it does not scratch or scour the metal. I gently hammer it with a raising hammer about 1/8" at almost 90 degrees.

On the top front piece be sure to leave the area where the nasal goes un-flared. Take note: Do not flare the eye opening any larger than 7/8", that is why they are 5/8" on the pattern.

As an alternate method one could use the flat face of the ball peen, hammer over the edge of the work bench. It is just like starting a roll, only smaller.

Best of luck on your quest.

Hal

How tough would it be to do a sallet on a spun-top?

Just curious!

maeryk

Not much tougher than starting from scratch, if you can get the welding shop to weld it.

Then you would have a better looking helm.

But I have only made two of them; therefore I am no expert.

Hal

Just being the curious newbie here- what is the top made from? That looks waaay too thick to dish out without heating. Was it something else that was cut, or did a machine make that?

I might be able to start on it today, but that's a stretch. I've got wretched homework to do. Cursesssss to nasty homeworkssss.

Ahhhh... the thick top question...

Glad you asked.

To keep cost down on the Greathelm kit, some compensations had to be made.

One is the pre-shaped top. That is an industrial stamping, slightly modified with my rawhide mallet. It is about 1/8" thick. This is designed to deflect top blows, and reinforce the top of the helm.

Upon hammering and riveting the top pieces to it, you will appreciate the thickness.
It works well over the mushroom to massage the pieces into place.

Any more questions?

Hal

Oh yes. It is quite nice. I actually used it to fine shape the front and back top pieces after rough shaping with the ball stake. I hadn't even read this before doing it. And I'm sure I'll appreciate it when I get hit in the head with a club. (not if, when )

And yes, there is another question. How far from the top of the top plates do I need to place the holes? I want to go ahead and get it all mocked up with bolts so I can do the finer shaping, but I'm afraid to start drilling. Measure 3 or 4 times, cut carefully. This is one project I don't want to send plates to the "very important pile."

Arty

The holes should be 3/8" from the edge of the top pieces. I like to scratch a line along the edge with my dividers.

Also the holes are about 3/8" from the edge of the top piece. Only drill one hole in the center back position of the top piece to start the fit up. Clamp the back piece to the top piece and work them together and work around both sides. Drill them together when clamped, bolt or rivet to hold it in place one at a time.

Re position the clamps and work to the next hole.

It may be easier for you to drill all the breath holes before the final riveting of the front piece.

Best of luck with your great helm, Arty.

Hal