The Armour Archive

Here is a set of arms I made. They are stainless with brass rivets and trim. They are supposed to be 14th Cent. I am open to any suggestions if they could be more authentic in style or whatever (aside from the metal used that is ).
[img]http://www.oaksarmoury.com/images/brass2.jpg[/img]
Sasuke

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www.oaksarmoury.com



[This message has been edited by Sasuke (edited 08-22-2001).]

I get this:
The page cannot be found
HTTP 404 - File not found
The page you are looking for might have been removed, had its name changed, or is temporarily unavailable.

Fixed it I think.
Sasuke

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www.oaksarmoury.com

Damn sexy arms there... the shape on the vambrace is quite nice.

Wonder who the lucky bastard is thats getting those...

J

They look pretty good to me. You could try making your own hinges if you want to add anything. How much are you asking?

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Virtus vincit invidiam
"Virtue overcometh envy"

you may want to brass the edge on the cop entirely instead of just around the fan. I got a set of these type of elbows made by Massa G ( about 8 yrs ago) and they look much better with the brass encompassing the cop. the Wrist edge works better fully rolled as well. and the last thing I can see different from the original is the rivet on the vambrace lame that looks out of place in the center of the lame connecting the lame and vambrace..

you asked:-)

you may want to brass the edge on the cop entirely instead of just around the fan. I got a set of these type of elbows made by Massa G ( about 8 yrs ago) and they look much better with the brass encompassing the cop. the Wrist edge works better fully rolled as well. and the last thing I can see different from the original is the rivet on the vambrace lame that looks out of place in the center of the lame connecting the lame and vambrace..

the quality looks spot on though. one of the things that isnt per the original churburg arm but works well is heavy brass hindges cut in decor for the vambrace. these save on cutting in the slots for the internal hindge and give more brass to the overall arm harness

you asked:-)

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Samuel:
you may want to brass the edge on the cop entirely instead of just around the fan. I got a set of these type of elbows made by Massa G ( about 8 yrs ago) and they look much better with the brass encompassing the cop.

I agree. This was my first attempt at adding brass to an elbow and I feared I would mess it up horribly. So I chickened out and went with just the fan.

the Wrist edge works better fully rolled as well. and the last thing I can see different from the original is the rivet on the vambrace lame that looks out of place in the center of the lame connecting the lame and vambrace..

Actually the edges are fully rolled to the inside ( I realise that 14th Cent. stuff was rolled to the outside, so I will have to work on that.). I added the extra rivet in the middle because I was experimenting with the sliding rivet set-up to allow the vambrace to rotate independantly of the elbow.

the quality looks spot on though. one of the things that isnt per the original churburg arm but works well is heavy brass hindges cut in decor for the vambrace. these save on cutting in the slots for the internal hindge and give more brass to the overall arm harness

I have messed with making my own hinges from stainless and mild and just haven't been satisfied with most of them. I have some heavier brass now and want to try again using that.

you asked:-)</font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thank you. This is exactly the sort of help I need. I hope to increase my skills and knowledge and I rely on people like you to let me know what areas I need to study more. Thank you, I appreciate the help.
Sasuke

P.S. If you want to know prices I prefer emails. I am too self-conscious to post prices here ( I always figure I am asking way too much and don't want to expose myself to that much public ridicule). Also, I won't be taking any orders until after I finish up with the rest of this kit.


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www.oaksarmoury.com

I notice that there is also a hole in the left upper lame...were these origionally going to be attached to leather uppers and vambraces? If not, why is there a hole there (and a brass rivet on the vambrace lames?) Otherwise, really nice looking. What gauge are these? I know how hard stainless is to dish. Good job. 8 out of 10.

Looked at your site. Gauntlets and sabs are very cool. 9 out of 10, at least.
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Dalewyn
Dalewyn@dbis.ns.ca
www.AlchemyArmory.com

[This message has been edited by Dalewyn (edited 08-22-2001).]

Good eye. That does look like a hole doesn't it? The hole you are seeing is just an optical illusion. Or it may just be a bit of dirt or something.
I have to admit that I am not sure what you mean by this:
(and a brass rivet on the vambrace lames?)
Unless you are refering to the same rivet that Samuel was talking about.
Sasuke

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www.oaksarmoury.com

Nice, I really like the filed edge on the pooks.

Match your brass to the underlying cop a little better next time, and it'll look better. You can also use a much lighter brass, and it won't stick out as much, and will to my eye look less "clunky"

I can't tell for sure...did you slightly dish the lames for a better fit?

It also looks like you should have gone a little deeper dishing the cops, but that may be a trick of the photo.

How much range of motion do they have?

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<B>Gundobad,
Wise Ogre Armory
Wise Ogre Pic of the Day
Wise Ogre Armory T-shirts & more</B>

Sanity is very rare. Every man almost, and every woman, has a dash of madness - R.W. Emerson

A position worth taking, is worth defending.

Yes, the lames are all slightly dished.
I wasn't sure on how heavy a brass I should use so I just went with 18 (I think it was 18 anyway) ga. I agree with the clunky look. I think that is mostly due to not matching everything up perfectly.
I think the pictures don't do the dishing justice, but I am sure they could definitely be deeper. I have a hard time getting a nice deep dish in the stainless.
As far as range of motion, They collapse almost completely forward (without gaping) and open just a bit further back than my own arm can. I should get some pictures of it since my description sounds odd.
Sasuke

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www.oaksarmoury.com

Man you get better and better with each project.

might want to try 16guage brass in the future. I used to use 18 and 20 all the time but found it doesnt give as much of a contrast with the metal.

I found this out by accident doing a roundel and ran out of the light stuff and had a sheet of 16 g brass I tried making elbows from. the thicker brass makes it a tad heavier but the depth is greatly increased.

Also counter sunk rivets look MUCH smoother, I just found this out with another set of Knees Im making. again by nessesity I ran low on 1/8th round rivets and found some 3/16 countersink rivets and tried it out. the brass just Screamed out with the flush rivets and didnt have the bumpy edge look of the roundheads.

Sasuke,

Whats the closing mechanism on the vambraces?

J

actually, there isn't a closing mechanism on them yet. I am not sure which method is appropriate for the 14th Cent. I think it is the strap method instead of the springpin. But I am not sure. Any suggestions?
Sasuke

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www.oaksarmoury.com

Sasuke,

Im not sure of the period churburg closure but the ones that Massa G made are straped with the strap runing through a elongated hole and riveted on the inside.

I'd go along with Samuel on this one. Here are two images to back that idea up.

[img]http://www.skeesick.com/images/closure.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.skeesick.com/images/closure2.jpg[/img]

Both late 14th cent examples.

J

Thank you very much for those pictures Janos. Where is that first one from?
Sasuke

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www.oaksarmoury.com

Its a scan from the churburg book... unfortunatly all I have is the scan and the last digit of the date is missing but what it does say that I can read is...

"right lower cannon of a three-piece vambrace. Milan c. 135x"

Glad it helps. The other pic though hard to see seems to indicate the same type of strapping and then it shows the single strap going across the inner elbow as well.

The upper cannon seems to be strapped with both an arm belt and with an upper leather tab and arming points.

J

i want them.... man i wish i had the tools... money.... skill.... materials.... uh what other things,.... i want them

I agree with you on the counter-sunk rivets.
The point of using thinner brass, however, is to not have it sticking so far out from the steel. That's the "clunky" issue we were addressing.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Samuel:
<B>might want to try 16guage brass in the future. I used to use 18 and 20 all the time but found it doesnt give as much of a contrast with the metal.

I found this out by accident doing a roundel and ran out of the light stuff and had a sheet of 16 g brass I tried making elbows from. the thicker brass makes it a tad heavier but the depth is greatly increased.

Also counter sunk rivets look MUCH smoother, I just found this out with another set of Knees Im making. again by nessesity I ran low on 1/8th round rivets and found some 3/16 countersink rivets and tried it out. the brass just Screamed out with the flush rivets and didnt have the bumpy edge look of the roundheads.</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>



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<B>Gundobad,
Wise Ogre Armory
Wise Ogre Pic of the Day
Wise Ogre Armory T-shirts & more</B>

Sanity is very rare. Every man almost, and every woman, has a dash of madness - R.W. Emerson

A position worth taking, is worth defending.

about hinges.. I got tired of trying to find modern hinges that I like. but it's fairly easy to make good looking ones if you are really good at rolled edges, or if you have a drill press (or a lathe), a welder and stuff to smooth down the weld..

I think Brian Price describes how to do hinges out of rolled edges in his book..

I tried that, but I'm not too good at getting an evenly rolled edge.. so I learned another way to make hinges.

I used a drill press to drill a hole lengthwise through a short length of 5/16" steel rod. that made the part of the hinge that the pin goes through.. it has to be cut into at least two peices to make a hinge.. and each of the peices is welded to two metal tabs that are used to attach the hinge to the armor plates.. if thats unclear, I have pictures of the hinge... they are way down at the bottom of this here page (it might take a while to load):
http://mailmaker.tripod.com/armor/halfplate.html
I'd have linked directly to the pics, but you'd prolly just get the silly "image hosted at tripod" thing.. anyways, just my 2 cents on hinges

[This message has been edited by Dweezle (edited 08-28-2001).]

Sasuke,
Those arms are so awfull that you should send them to me and tell everyone *I* made them. This is only to save you from further embarrasment. Accepting them and gleefully wearing them all the time would be a great sacrifice on my part, but for you, I'm willing.

Seriously though, I wish I was capable of that kind of work. Great job.

Stuart

I am hoping to experiment with making the hinges incorporated right in the vambrace, like many of the originals are done.
Hehe, good one Stuart
I will also switch over to the countersunk rivets for future brass work (just have to order some from RJLeahy).
Sasuke

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www.oaksarmoury.com

Thank you, Janos. You just solved the only problem I had with my S.S. Abhammer arms. The buckle/strap/rivet argued with the gauntlets. I'm changing it first chance I get. (Gotta paint the #%@*& living room first!)

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Virtus vincit invidiam
"Virtue overcometh envy"