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Leather for a Wisby C.O.P.

Posted: Sun Jun 06, 2004 8:30 pm
by Leviathan
Hi all,

Yet another question. I'm looking into purchasing some leather for a Wisby C.O.P. and I'm wondering how heavy it should be. The stuff I'm looking at right now is 5.5oz soft temper. Is that okay? Will that be strong enough? I'm looking at purchasing a full side, and then using some of it for my splinted arms and legs too, will it work for that? Comments? Suggestions? Thanks for your time.

The Leviathan

Posted: Sun Jun 06, 2004 9:42 pm
by ARMOURER ERIC
I swear by chome tanned bullhide.

Eric

Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2004 12:55 pm
by Steve S.
Bear in mind, of course, that chrome-tanned leather is not period.

Steve

Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2004 1:00 pm
by Kenwrec Wulfe
Personally, I would go a little thinner (4oz) - You will find it plenty durable and lasting, plus it will be lighter and ooler to wear (not that wearing leather is cooling.)

In the COPs that I have made, I use either a topgrain or suede (though suede is not historically accurate, clients like the cheaper cost... :D ) in the 4oz range.

Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2004 9:49 pm
by Leviathan
Hi,

Hi, thanks for the replies. That helps give me a (sort of) reference point. Thanks again.

The Leviathan

Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2004 10:43 pm
by Kit Houston
A friend of mine use's plan, 4mm, embossing leather.
It has held up well and against steel weapons.

Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 2:52 am
by chaine_maile
While chrome tanned is not period, when wet it is stronger and more stable then wet natural tanned. It is used in most leather work boots. Try tooling a piece of chromed, and a piece of natural. Chromed will put up a good fight trying to tool it. So if you want tooling, go natural tanned.

If your buying the leather in person and are not sure if its natural tanned or chrome, just find a fresh cut edge and see if the center grain is grey or brown. If its grey, it is chrome tanned.

Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 4:09 am
by Mats
I recently made a historical report on the Battle of Wisby 1361 and as an attachment to it I made a COP. I used pretty sturdy leather, 3-3.5mm, and I do not regret it. Yes, the leather is backing and the metal is the armour but please keep in mind that the leather is on the outside and also it is the only protection your upper back will have.

I used a natural vegetable tanned leather. It's a swedish speciality made out of only swedish cattle and tanned with stuff from the mimosatree and other things. It does not stretch but is still flexible. Awesome material to work with, will also use it for splinted arms later on this summer.

Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 8:05 am
by Leviathan
Hi all,

The 5.5oz stuff I was looking at is chrome tanned. Like you say it's not historical, but it seems to be a little easier to find, and if it's also stronger and more stable then I think I'll go with it. Is 5.5oz heavy enough to make good strong straps? If I'm going to buy a full side then I want to be able to use it for as much as possible. Oh, one other thing, how does the oz. rating correspond to mm? Thanks.

The Leviathan

Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 11:51 pm
by chaine_maile
Ounce weight really does not directly have much to do with thickness. It is a measure of how much a square foot of the leather weighs. Denser leathers will be thinner then soft/spongy leathers of the same weight.

Another advantage of chrome tanned leather is mildew resistance. The chrome tanning process uses some nasty chemicals. These chemicals make it much less prone to rot and mildew then natural tanned leathers.

Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 12:25 am
by HugoFuchs
chaine_maile wrote:Ounce weight really does not directly have much to do with thickness. It is a measure of how much a square foot of the leather weighs. Denser leathers will be thinner then soft/spongy leathers of the same weight.


In the leather industry it is estimated as 1/64 inch = 1 ounce.

Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 8:05 am
by Leviathan
Hi,

Thanks, that clarifies a couple things.

The Leviathan