I did my first leather armour project. (A gorget) I used Tandy's super shene and not only is it REAALLYY shiney it started to crack and peel off while working on it, even before I used it. Any ideas on striping it off, fixing the finish and/or a better product for future use. The gorget turned out pretty cool other wise, even has a bit of tooling on it. Also what's the best way to seal the inside of the leather?
Thanks, Ed
Best Leather Finish?
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Konstantin the Red
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Coat the flesh side with sealer too. Pity about the Super Shene -- it usually works much better than that.
For an alternative, give it a couple of coats, both flesh and grain side, of neutral shoe polish. The rule is if you dye the leather, seal it too or the dye will get on you even when dry.
For an alternative, give it a couple of coats, both flesh and grain side, of neutral shoe polish. The rule is if you dye the leather, seal it too or the dye will get on you even when dry.
"The Minstrel Boy to the war is gone..."
- Maelgwyn
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Veg. tanned leather? Super sheen usually works fine. What other steps did you take with your leather before applying super sheen?
Maelgwyn
Hardened leather, hardened steel, linen, natural fiber padding, riveted chain, rawhide-edged birch plywood:
Cool lightweight medieval technologies for superior combat performance.
Hardened leather, hardened steel, linen, natural fiber padding, riveted chain, rawhide-edged birch plywood:
Cool lightweight medieval technologies for superior combat performance.
Veg tanned leather, Tandy dye (black) and Super Shene.
I rubbed on it a bit today and almost all the finish came right off. I'm thinking after reading in the catalog that it's affected by freezing temps and the fact that it was shipped by Tandy in freezing temps UPS ground that mabe it went bad. Thanks for the replies
I rubbed on it a bit today and almost all the finish came right off. I'm thinking after reading in the catalog that it's affected by freezing temps and the fact that it was shipped by Tandy in freezing temps UPS ground that mabe it went bad. Thanks for the replies
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Konstantin the Red
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Interesting thought Konstantin. I'd say I think the Tandy Pro dye is oil based, from what I can tell. The Super Shene is water based. BUT the reason I used the Super Shene on the Pro dye is because that's what it said to use in the description of the dye. So I don't know.
BTW I managed to remove (by rubbing) all the Super Shene. I touched up the dye and used clear shoe polish and it looks great. I'll post a pic when I get a chance.
BTW I managed to remove (by rubbing) all the Super Shene. I touched up the dye and used clear shoe polish and it looks great. I'll post a pic when I get a chance.
- AB Hammer
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LOL the old super shene story. I have done leather for a long time and I quit useing the super shene for a couple reason.
1. when it gets hot it gets sticky and can stick leather together.
2. cracks.
I use wax on the back ( I melt it in with a heat gun or blow dryer ) and Kiwi polish on the front (and polish with an old pair of panny hose. That will keep your armour longer and look better for a long time.
AB Hammer
1. when it gets hot it gets sticky and can stick leather together.
2. cracks.
I use wax on the back ( I melt it in with a heat gun or blow dryer ) and Kiwi polish on the front (and polish with an old pair of panny hose. That will keep your armour longer and look better for a long time.
AB Hammer
ABHAMMER wrote:LOL the old super shene story. I have done leather for a long time and I quit useing the super shene for a couple reason.
1. when it gets hot it gets sticky and can stick leather together.
2. cracks.
AB Hammer
Thanks for clearing that up. And you know, besides all that, it just looks bad. Makes the leather look like plastic.
