NEWBIE QUESTIONS ANSWERED - Add your Input !!!

[critch]

Whenever I see an O/A torch for sale it obviously doesn't include the cylinders. Like this: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200413934

How much do the tanks themselves cost? How long do they last and how much is it to fill them? What's a good size of cylinder to get?

I was about to mention grinding welds down, I saw a video of a guy who made a barbute helmet using welding with an OA torch. It seemed like there was no weld on the end result. Pretty impressive.

Forge welding is heating and joining two pieces of metal together while cherry hot?

As far as my background in welding.. I tried MIG welding once in highschool 6+ years ago and I used OA mostly for cutting. I went to a trade school and did HVAC so I really did not weld much. It'd have to be a refresher for the regulator psi's and simple things. I think it'll all come back though. I was mostly a brazer or solderer either with a Turbo Torch or Propane.

[Keegan Ingrassia]

If you've experience in brazing and soldering, then welding with an O/A torch will feel very familiar. Heat metal until puddle forms, then move the torch along your weld line, coaxing the puddle of molten metal along, while dipping your filler rod into the puddle.


TANKS

Cost - depends on several factors. Price goes up as the volume goes up. New cylinders cost more than used. Some welding places even allow you to rent cylinders instead of buying them outright.

Duration - depends on what you're using it for, size of tanks, etc. Assuming mid-sized tanks: If you're welding occasionally, they could last several months. If you weld for several hours a day, they might last a month. If you're using the tanks with a rosebud tip and doing a lot of hot work, that will naturally burn more fuel than welding in the same amount of time.

Refill cost - again, depends on the shop you're taking the tanks to. Buying the tanks themselves is the big hit...say, $150-200 each. Refilling is by volume, so again, size will change this, but say about $40 per tank.

Size - depends on your intended use, frequency and duration of use. Smaller tanks cost less, need to be refilled more often. Scale the tank to your expected work. Are you going to be doing a lot of hot work? You might go for a medium tank. Generally, you don't need a massive tank; those are for the guys who are going to be welding all day, every day. Since you aren't a hobbyist that just needs to spot weld a broken lawn chair every other year, don't bother with the smallest tanks.

[critch]

Is there a rehydro test or something tanks need to be run through every 5 years? I'm a little skeptical of buying used tanks but I'd like to save some cash.

I mostly will be doing welding and hot work with it so medium will be the way to go.

[coreythompsonhm]

At the place I go to to refill, if my tanks are out of date they just swap it out on the spot for a similar size tank.

[critch]

Yeah I've heard that.. What if you're unlucky and you find out after purchasing tanks, the place near you won't do it? Could you legally (via written invoice) return the tanks and get your money back from the seller? I'm thinking craigslist.

[critch]

I wanted to ask. Was brass used for armor in history or was it for decorative purposes?

[Keegan Ingrassia]

Yeah I've heard that.. What if you're unlucky and you find out after purchasing tanks, the place near you won't do it? Could you legally (via written invoice) return the tanks and get your money back from the seller? I'm thinking craigslist.

Why not call the local place before you purchase tanks, and ask them?

[critch]

Good point, I'll have to check first. Hopefully they don't pull the reverse and when I show up tell me something else.

[wolf16mt]

Question. Can i use the copper pipe insulation for an ac unit wich is 3/4 inches thick to trim my shield with? My shield is made of wood and i have very basic straps on it. Also my budget is zero on this. Or i would have bought leather and hemp rope for the trim. I currently have availible said insulation tube and have some 550 cord. I have some leather scraps and nothing else. Any suggestions i could use?

[DasSauerkraut]

Hello all,
I'm trying to develop a pattern for a knee cop and it is not articulating for some reason.

is it because my 'cop' isn't dished?
I can provide more and better pictures if nessecary

[don]

Dishing "should" help, I can't tell if you just stuck brads into the poster board or if you punched holes first, not to mention its laying flat.
I don't mean to sound like an asshat, but try bending it some and see if that helps or try punching holes in a crescent like shape to see if that helps.

Realize the material that you are using, paper acts differently then leather/plastic/steel. the latter will "shape" better then the former. You can try searching on the archive, I'm sure you well find more then sufficient amounts of info for articulations.

Don

[DasSauerkraut]

Thanks don,
I ended up making a very small knee with only 1 lame out of some spare 22 gauge steel. Dishing did fix the problem.

Sauer

[Konstantin the Red]

Thanks don,
I ended up making a very small knee with only 1 lame out of some spare 22 gauge steel. Dishing did fix the problem.

Sauer

And now you know that every bit of a cop & lames assembly has to cup. It only works that way. Works well, that is.

A knee presents at full flex a roughly hemispherical surface. Design the cop and the lames as segments, portions, of the surface of a hemisphere (pretty much, doesn't have to be a perfect geometric solid) and you'll land pretty much right.

The elbow by comparison is more like a rough cone shape. With some lumps. (Good thing you're padding there.)

[SchwarzeRitter]

I have heard that when steel has too high a carbon content it can simply crack / break when working it even at a red / yellow - hot temperature. Is this true?

Anyone have any thoughts / general guidelines on the max carbon content that can be present in a steel before it becomes too brittle / unworkable even when red hot?

[Konstantin the Red]

You won't experience that at anything up to 1% C. Cast iron has more than 2%.

There are red-short alloys... I think that's a matter of manganese content. These will crumble under the hammer at red heat and should be worked at orange-yellow or white. But simple steels won't play such tricks.

Generally you crack steel in trying to heat and quench, so know what quenchant suits your metal. Simple steels, just quench in water, fairly lowcarbon, in brine; alloys may want an oil quench (anything from vegetable oil to transmission fluid will do) or even harden cooling in air.

[Arx]

So I'm considering building a set of mid-period Sasanian/Daylamite armour. Most of that is pretty straight forward, except the helm - which is a form of high-vaulted spangenhelm. Any tips for a complete novice to adjust a more typical spangen pattern?

[don]

Arx,
Have you tried looking for info on building a "regular" spangen? Most start out as a minimum of seven pieces of metal; one for the brow, at least two for the top bands and, at least four for the sides that are generally shaped into rounded equilateral triangles.

If your looking for a "high-vaulted" version, grab a bunch of poster board/cereal boxes and go to town adjusting the height of the triangles till you get the desired effect.

Spending some time going through the archive or using the search button prior to using ones google-fu can give some interesting results.

Don

[UdoM]

Question: whenever i see pics of barbute helms, i notice they all tend to have a ring of rivets around them, that seem to serve no purpose on the outside, but which is how i assume the internal material is attached and is how the helm is suspended on the wearer's head. That makes sense. So why then do i not see the exact same ring of rivets on almost any other helmet?

[Keegan Ingrassia]

Different helmets are padded or lined or suspended in different ways throughout history. For instance, a bascinet from the 14th century has a padded suspension liner that is sewn in all along the bottom edge and facial arch. Most times, the method of attaching internal liners is much more subtle than the giant, decorated rivets on sallets.

[NomadHound]

Hi there, guys! I'm looking for some mid 15th century brigantine patterns, that are suitable for man-at-arms, during 100-year-war period.
Will be very glad for any assistant.

[Friethjoph]

Which part of the 100 years war? Which side? Because of the sheer length and techni calchanges, the styles and patterns change a lot, depending on which side you are fighting on and when.

[NomadHound]

Kingdom of England, Lancastrian War (1415-1420).

[LeoVIIIIV]

Just picked up a 24" section of railroad track. Trying to decide on what shape to cut it into. Any experienced suggestions/links for anvil shapes/schematics that would be good for armoring?

Thanks in advance

[Galileo]

It really depends on what kind of armour you want to make. Typically, a general anvil-shape works (flat horn works for shaping toes for sabatons, possibly doing some thumb/finger work for gauntlets, depending on shape). Mostly, they make a good base for setting rivets.

You may find that as you make more armour, you'll notice shapes you really need, and then can grind to match - or make your own stakes for a vice or some such.



Remember that a railroad track is not flat on top - they're slightly rounded. You'll want to keep that in mind when shaping metal.

[LeoVIIIIV]

It really depends on what kind of armour you want to make. Typically, a general anvil-shape works (flat horn works for shaping toes for sabatons, possibly doing some thumb/finger work for gauntlets, depending on shape). Mostly, they make a good base for setting rivets.

You may find that as you make more armour, you'll notice shapes you really need, and then can grind to match - or make your own stakes for a vice or some such.



Remember that a railroad track is not flat on top - they're slightly rounded. You'll want to keep that in mind when shaping metal.

Thanks for the tips Galileo

[Konstantin the Red]

Torch cutting an anvil-horn-like overhang into one end of the RR track is good. You can reach inside stuff easily then. Helmet construction, setting joint rivets, roughing in narrower cone shapes for limb armor pieces. Ends up being a bickern-like skinny anvil you can fit into tight openings.

Pretty much the ultimate in heavy helm production tools is the large T stake, a 3" steel round stock piece welded on a post to stand it or stump it depending on your taste. Most make it with its own stand. The T arms are about two feet either side, and consequently reach all the way to the top of a barrel or spangen helm to back those rivets up. This tool is sometimes called a rivet setter (stake) because that is what it's most used for. Slap the helm part on it, fit things onto a rivet, bang bang twack and that rivet's insta-done. Damn fast. Can bend helm parts too.

[Halberds]

Critch

I just bought an 80 cubic foot bottle of 25/75 for my MIG, it is about 35" tall for $200.00.
It weighs 56 pounds and is still a struggle for an old timing man, to load in the car.

I use the small 20 cubit foot bottle for my oxygen/ acetylene welding about 12" tall.
The 8 cubic foot bottle is my acetylene.
I get several hours out of a fill.
At least they are easy to transport.

OAwelder.png (26.92 KiB) Viewed 3172 times

Hal

[Konstantin the Red]

Between Hal's post and this post, we skip 2020AD altogether, and do the Snoopy dance. Rattles real funny doing it in plate harness.