The Armour Archive

That is turning out to be an awful pretty hat.

Maybe not exactly that design, but something like that might work for a rapier combat helm.
East Kingdom Rapier rules say:

3. Head
a. The front and top of the head must be covered by rigid material to below the jaw line and behind the ears. Standard 12 kg fencing masks are known to meet this standard. If built to this standard, fencing helms are also acceptable.
b. The face must be covered by either 12kg mesh (e.g. a standard fencing mask) or perforated metal. Such metal must not have holes larger than 1/8" (3 mm) in diameter, with a minimum offset of 3/16" (5 mm) and shall also meet the definition of rigid material.
c. Masks and helms must be secured so that they cannot be easily removed or dislodged during combat. The combination of snug fit and the spring-tongue in a conventional fencing mask is not sufficient, by itself, to secure the mask to the combatant.
d. Both modern fencing masks and rapier helms shall show no evidence of impending failure (e.g., significant rust or dents, or other defects including spread open mesh, broken weld points, etc). If there is concern about the face mesh of a modern fencing mask, it should be tested using a standard, commercial 12 kg mask punch. Marshals doing the testing must be trained in the use of the punch.
e. The rest of the head must be covered by at least puncture resistant material.

You'd have to have the perforated steel behind and below the oculars, but, some facsimile of a ventail might work to cover everything below the oculars.

Their definition of rigid material is:

c. Rigid Material: Puncture-resistant materials that will not significantly flex, spread apart, or deform under pressure of 12 kg applied repeatedly to any single point. Examples of rigid material are:
22 gauge stainless steel (0.8 mm);
20 gauge mild steel (1.0 mm);
16 gauge aluminum, copper or brass (1.6 mm);
one layer of heavy leather (8 oz., 4 mm).

If not a stand-alone mask/helm combo, then maybe a shell that covers a commercially-made fencing mask. Gerhard's leather rapier helm cover - http://www.lydia.org/bandgun/helm/index.html - isn't bad, but it has a few issues, like the chance of a tip sliding under the visor or between the lobster-tail lames.

Yes, with some modifications it just might pass for that. I could add cheeck plates and back slats (maybe with metal reinforcements), and then add a perf plate in the front. I could then cover the perf plate with a malle aventail that conncets around the base of the helm and to the nasal and occulars (I don't know if this is actually called an aventail) and have it hang down to the shoulders. That way the only bit of perf plate you would see would be the eye holes.

That's a good idea! Thank you for that information! There are a couple of Vendel/Valsgarde helms that would work great for that.

Thanks!
Cat

personally I wouldn't ruin the great work you are doing with this helm trying to retro fit it for SCA rapier combat. Not only is the idea of a rapier weilding viking totally ridiculous but I would hate to see you ruin this cool helm trying to make it into something it is not.

I'm not going to do it for this one, but I may try one of the other styles in the future and add those mods. This one is already giving me enough trouble as it is, let alone adding something unplanned for to it. I am already in the process of scrapping the crest in it's current form and trying to redesign it so it looks better. This crest has been a pain in the behind, but I am hopeful that the new design will work much better. (But now I will have to go back and trace all of those little lines onto the new pieces. ) Oh well, ya do what ya gotta do to get it right, I suppose.

Cat

Hey Cat...if you end up wanting to sell that prototype...let me know

Matt

Yes, I will probably sell it, but I have a dinky head ( 21" ) and I am making it to more or less fit me. It will probably only fit a kid.

HEY! I heard that! No poking fun at my small head!

Cat

It seems a protester has organized a sit-in at my work table, making it difficult to work. Then again, I guess that's the whole point of a sit-in. Hmmm....maybe I should bring the dog in to deal with this.

Holy cow, that looks just like my cat Napkin! Maybe just a tad fluffier, but still!

I find live cats to be a bit hard to use as a napkin, what with the 5 out of 6 pointy ends they have. And you Don't want to use the 6th end anyway...


Jason

Ohhhhhh, I am sick with envy. For a year I have been trying to get a 2-panel to work.

Also I am sick that all I can do is look at the pics and can't read the thread....lol.

I think you're brilliant, Cat. I'm looking forward to seeing your crest solution.

Christopher

No no no - Don't be envious. I have nothing to do all day but sit and work on projects or think up projects. Having that extra time allows me to devote more time to thinking of things and thinking of solutions.

Here is a pic of today's progress. This is a rough draft of the new crest. I am following a suggestion from Niall and I am making it a 2 piece crest instead of the way it was before. You probably can't see it in the pics, but there is a 1/4" ridge along the top that will be flared out to match up with the other half, and then the sides will get dished so they poof out - if you see what I mean. I also just finished the design for the occulars. The gaps will be filled in by extending the lines of the knot.

Cat

it is looking so good Cat.

Makes me wish I would have gone ahead and done leather work in 4-H. Would have come in very handy with this whole armouring sickness.

Jason

Ahhh, who needs 4H? Just jump in there and do it. I've got zero leather experience other than the stuff I have just tried recently, and this is my first tooling job. No better way to learn than simply taking the plunge. Plus, it's FUN! (Although the tooling is a real drag.)

Thanks again,
Cat

I bearly have enough time for my plate work as it is.

I'm one of only 2 people in my group that do metal work. Which means I've always got something to do. Which is why my armour isn't finished.
Not to mention the other fab work (vehicular/agricultural in nature) plus the sudden desire by my wife to have some period-esk furniture.
Jason

Here's a couple more pics. I still need to finish tooling the other half of the bottom band, then I need to transfer and tool the nasal design, plus remake the crest. I am also working on a steel nasal/occular to attach under the leather version for a little extra support and for easier attachment. As a side note, the crest will not look like that when it's done. The sides will be dished, and it will have that little ridge that runs along the top of the crest. (Or at least that's the plan )Still lots left to do......

Cat

uhhhhhhhh

Well, I have been super busy lately and have not had a chance to work on this until today. I only got a little done, but I hope to get back into full swing on this soon as I am anxious to get it finished. Below are a couple of pics of the design for the nasal and occulars. I am putting the crest off until I can get the metal suuports done for the nasal/occulars/eyebrows and get the respective attachment points located. Once that's done, I will know how long to make the crest and can then continue with that.

Anyway, just thought I'd give an update.

Cat

Wondered where you were at.

Still looking good.

Jason

Got a little tooling done on the nasal. I still need to tool the eyes, then I think I may just be finished with the detailed tooling. (YEA!!!!) I still need to cut the lines into the crest when that's done, but I think this is the last of the really time consuming stuff. And MAN is it ever time consuming! I think it's worth it though. It's not perfect by any stretch of the imagination, but I think it looks 100% better than leaving it plain.

Thanks again,
Cat

OK! Nasal and occulars are tooled!! I am SO glad the tooling is done! Here's some pics...

Cat

OK Cat this has pegged my jealousy meter and with all your other skills added on, this is a real problem! I like you too much to kill you and I can't marry you either so I will just have to break your hands I am sure you understand it's nothing personal. Keep up the great work this is an awesome project!
Cheers,
Leo

CAT,

You need to teach me how you make your etching come out so nice in leather. I am very impressed (and jealous).

RPM

Cat,
I don't come here much anymore and when I do I seldom say anything, But I have to say that this is one of the coolest projects I have seen. GREAT work

Thanks so much.

Brother Logan, I wouldn't worry about going to the trouble of breaking my hands. I am very clumsy, and if you wait long enough, I can guarantee I will do it myself.

RPM, the tooling wasn't all that hard, it was just very time consuming and somewhat painful on the hands, especially on the larger pieces. I wanted the tooling nice and deep so that it looked more like etching, and to do that I just cut the lines deep. Then I made sure I pushed the background in real good, and I went around the outside of the design as well to make it stand out all the more. I would be happy to explain how I did it if you like, but just remember I am no expert on tooling as this is my first try.

David, thank you very much. It's nice to hear from you! How have you been? I hope all is going well!

For an update, I have the metal supports cut out and ground down to the rough shape. The are made out of galvy (which is all I had), so they are now sitting in a vat of vinegar to get that off. I checked the progress earlier, and it doesn't look like the vinegar is doing anything, which makes me wonder if it might be aluminum clad steel. I may end up having to sand the coating off (whatever it is) then I can get it to it's final shape and blacken it in the forge. That reminds me, I used the last of the charcoal to cook dinner the other night and I need to get more. You know, that natural charcoal stuff cooks pretty nice. My grill was out of gas, so I just lined it with foil and used that stuff. Cooked nice and even with no scorching - it was great.

Anyway, that's where I'm at. Just waiting for the metal to get clean. I need to get them finsihed so I can start to figure out how everything is going to go together. After that, I can get the new crest done, then I get to stain everything. I think I may also put a wax coating on it inside and out, but I can't recall the ratio of carnuba wax to beeswax. Anybody have a good formula?

Thanks again,
Cat

Ok, the galvy is all off of the metal supports and I have done some preliminary shaping to them. I will need to tweak them some more and possibly re make the leather eyebrows to get everything to line up, but I am getting closer. I made a potentially disastrous mistake with the metal nasal piece by not accounting for the difference in thickness (between paper and the steel) and now I can just barely sneak the rivet holes into the ends where it will attach to the helm. I need to wait until my hubby gets home so he can mark the holes for me while I hold it, and then I will know if I need to make another nasal. I hope not - grinding sucks.

Anyway, here's some pics of everything kinda taped up to the metal supports.

Cat

One more shot...

Cat...looks damn cool!

Matt

Thanks so much. I really hope this all comes together. I've put a good deal of time into this, and I still don't know how everything is going to attach, or if it's all going to work. A result of poor planning, having no real idea how to plan, etc.

Here's another pic showing the little bird guy. I am going to re make this as it's a little too short. That upper nasal area is starting to get pretty thick. I hope my rivets are long enough.....

Cat

Cat wrote:...That upper nasal area is starting to get pretty thick. I hope my rivets are long enough....

Looking very nice Cat! Your work is getting me motivated to get out to the shop and finish some projects.

As for the rivets, if they are not long enough you can use copper roofing nails from McMaster Carr or RJ Leahy.

http://www.mcmaster.com
http://www.rjleahy.com/store/nails/copper1.htm

PS Can you imagine if every youth boffer fighter showed up in a hardened leather helm with quilted linen or felt padding? It would be awesome!

Hey, that reminds me. How am I supposed to pad this? Would the padding be attached to the helm in some way, or would it have been a seperate cap type thingy? What about the chin strap? Anybody have any pics of what they are supposed to look like? I need to figure that stuff out before I rivet everything together.

Thanks again!
Cat

Ok, I got the holes drilled in the nasal and eyebrows, and got them dyed. Man I suck at dyeing. Not sure what I'm doing wrong, but it's kinda splotchy. The steel supports and the rivets will be russeted so they blend with the leather color. I was going to blacken them, but the dye is a different color than I thought and I think the russeted steel will match well.

Anyway, here's some pics.

Cat

That hat is coming along great Cat. Very nice work so far, and thanks for sharing!

Uric

As always Cat, truely outstanding work!!! The dyeing aspect I think looks good. I dont see any splotches anywhere. The rivet length youre talking about, how long do you need them. The reason I'm asking is I ordered some 3/8 x 3/4 inch and I only used a few of them. I'm sure I have enough for you to fasten the eye plate to the helm. If you want I could mail them to you guys. Again, great work, and keep the pics coming. I just finished my first helm and I have ALLLOTTTTT of technique I need to learn. Let me know if I can help.

OH MY GOD!!!! schwwwwwwweeeet.


Part of me is just screaming to drybush the knotwork with a bit of gold paint.

Thanks so much! I am still scared to death that this isn't going to come together right, but I feel a bit better now that the occulars look like they might work ok. I don't think I am going to paint this one as I don't have any paint and just want to get it finished, but this is just my first attempt. I will most likely make another one and that will be something different I can do to that.

HammerHand,
Thank you so much for your offer! As it turns out, my rivets aren't long enough, but I think I am going to use a flat head nail. The head is REALLY big, but once I strip the galvy and russet it, I think it will be barely noticeable. I am almost positive I can get the russeting as dark as the leather, and it should match pretty good. What do you guys think? Try to ignore the glaring galvy and envision it a color close to the leather color.

Thanks so much!
Cat