The Armour Archive

Hi,

I need to make some custom rivets.
I have read a few blacksmithing books about 'nailheading', but can't seem to get it right.
Let me tell you what I am trying to do and how...so you can correct my process.
I took a piece of steel about 1/2" thick, drilled a hole a tiny bit larger than the gage of the wire I am using, cut a chunk of wire slightly longet than the thickness of the steel heading tool, and place it on an anvil, butt the wire end on the anvil, and tap a head on the wire.

I am having issues with the wire where it touches the anvil spreading and making it difficult to remove from the heading tool, and bending slightly inside the heading tool as well.

So does this mean the hole size in the heading tool needs to be the same size as the wire?
Won't it get stuck?


Anyone have some experience with this?

Thanks!

If my memory serves correctly, A heading tool has a tapered hole in it, to prevent the rivet from sticking. Also, it seems that rivets and nails hung through the header, and into the pritchel hole, or off the edge of the anvil. The heading tool should be tight enough to hold the raw rivet in place. Once you've formed the head, tap the bottom of the rivet and it should pop out of the header.

Jason

hmmm...tapered from top to bottom or the other way around?

What about casting them out of brass or bronze with custom heads?
Jeff

Sir Thorfinn wrote:hmmm...tapered from top to bottom or the other way around?

If they are bigger at the bottom, than at the head, they won't come out.

One of the Roman reenactor sites shows how to make them, but I can't find my bookmark.

Jeff, is a long time that i think how to cast rivets, could you explain how to proceed? (Assuming that you suggested to cast them because you know how to do it ).
Thank you

Sir Thorfinn wrote:hmmm...tapered from top to bottom or the other way around?

As Alcy said, wider at the top, that way it wedges as you work the head. Then you can tap the shank of the rivet and it "pops" out.

Jason

I just have a inch thich bar drilled with different diameters and then I have little bits I stick from the back in that determine the depth. One done if stuck remove back plug stick in small rod and use a rubber mallet to pop it out. Heat helps if you already have it going. Leave a few near the forge, then place the hot end up for hammering. Truth be told I only get semi-round heads and semi-flat ones, they work though...

Randall

Actually, a nail header should be a thru-hole, wider at the bottom, so that you can easily get it out. Of course, the material you put in has to be shaped correctly not to fall through. For heads on round stock like rivets, use a two piece holder. Take two pieces of thick angle iron, put a business card or similar cardboard in between and clamp it in a vise. Drill your hole, centered on the seam. I would drill it all the way through, unless you have a particular application that needs a shallow depth. Repeat for your other rivet sizes, but make sure that you don't blow through the side walls. Remove the business card and it's done. You can now clamp round stock tightly. Heat the end of your round stock with a forge or torch, clamp it in your new vise jaws with just enough sticking out for your desired head size, and peen away. Cut to length and repeat.

What about clamshell headers? take two bars drill horizontally for locating pins then space them apart with a tear out card from a magazine and drill vertically for the rivit for both size and depth. mount them on your post vise. heat the stock, (precut to size), drop in the proper hole tighten vise and head. Open the vise and remove rivit repeat until insane...

I used to have a foot operated vise used for bolt heading based on this principle.

Thomas

Many thanks for the links Gentlemen...and the advice!
I think my 2 main failings were a poorly made tool and no oil in the tool...
Now to go try again...

Thorfinn