The Armour Archive

Now I need to buy rivets but i dont know the size that is most recommended.
To help me I saw this
http://www.tec-n-tec.com/English/RiveTec/Solide/rsacan.htm
and I would like to know your opinion on this.
THX


------------------
Evil

First the rivets you should buy are annealed steel rivets. the ones at that link were for Aluminum, which will not be as strong or historically correct.
For size it depends on your use. For arm harness and elbow articulation the 1/8" shank diameter is good, about 3/8" (1cm) long. You may need to cut off a little of the length or use a washer.
For SCA fighting and knee articulation I like a bit heavier rivet, 3/16" diameter. Again the 3/8" should be a good length.

Armourers usually use steel, brass, and copper rivets.

Rivets for steel are usually steel, rivets for leather or cloth are often not.

You may find this link helpful:

http://www.rjleahy.com/Techcenter/rivets/

Steve

------------------
Forth Armoury
Highly authentic, affordable riveted maille.

The measure of a man is not in the steel of his skin but in the steel of his heart. - S. Sheldon

Hi !

I use aluminum and steel rivets, both in diameters of 4mm (ca. 3/18").
Aluminum has the advantage, that it is easier to set and that the diameter changes (goes bigger) while setting, that means the hole will also be filled in it´s diametric dimensions. That strengthens the point where the rivet is set.
Steel rivets are tougher, so when it comes to points where mobility is important take steel rivets.
On the other hand the mushroom end of the rivet is less strong, so it can be damaged while setting the rivet, and that looks bad.

At last, I think aluminum is more expensive.


Chriz

1/8 and 3/16, in steel
round headed rivet link
flat head rivet link

also brass is what I used for softer points.


[This message has been edited by HugoFuchs (edited 01-02-2003).]

evil

what are you planning to use the rivets for?

each application is slightly different.

some rivets will work for many things.

my first pair of knees used copper rivets and burrs. the rivets actually lasted longer than I though they would.

here are pictures of a few different types of rivets.

http://tiarmour.com/types_of_rivets.htm


------------------
mrks
squire to sir aveloc
tiarmour.com ==>> maker of fine Titanium armour

Picking a good general size for your rivets is not difficult.
First you need a good drill-bit. I suggest you get one that is large enough so you do not lose it in the workshop easily. Something around 25mm (1 inch) ought to be about the smallest drill bit you try. This way you will not misplace it for long and you will be able to resharpen it easily without all that messing around that smaller drill bits entail. This means that the rivets you will need are 1inch rivets by whatever length you want the shaft. Since you never know when you need to make some extra thick armour, I suggest buying rivets that have at least a 6inch shaft length.

Of course, rivets as small as these are kind of soft and fragile, so ALWAYS buy the good pre-hardened carbon steel ones.

Sasha

Sasha:

I always enjoy your advice.
Could one go the cheap way out and use RR spikes instead? If you cut them a little long would not the extra peening cover the square peg in the round hole effect?

appy ammering,

Hal

Sasha, just a thought, seven inch shaft lenght might be a good idea....just to be on the safe side!!! LOL!

Sirmarc

I tried the rr spikes....but it was alot of work trying to pry them out of the rr ties.

Sirmarc

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Crows Anvil:
<B>Hi !

I use aluminum and steel rivets, both in diameters of 4mm (ca. 3/18").
Aluminum has the advantage, that it is easier to set and that the diameter changes (goes bigger) while setting, that means the hole will also be filled in it´s diametric dimensions.

Chriz</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hallo Chriz

Care to share your "dealer" for rivets here in Germany. I have ordered in the U.S. and post and package is a bitch.

Greetings

Kalle

Kalle,

I directly buy in Frankfurt/Main at Messinger (www.messinger-schrauben.de) .

A week ago I ordered a package of about 1000 steel rivets at Würth (www.wuerth.de) . I will tell you how much the price was as soon as I get the packet. I had a visit of a sales rep. from wuerth and we had a good deal will 25% discout.

Chriz

[This message has been edited by Crows Anvil (edited 01-03-2003).]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by mrks:
<B>evil

what are you planning to use the rivets for?

each application is slightly different.

some rivets will work for many things.

my first pair of knees used copper rivets and burrs. the rivets actually lasted longer than I though they would.

here are pictures of a few different types of rivets.

http://tiarmour.com/types_of_rivets.htm


</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Like I see you have lot of nie rivets but i just wanna now what the better size for helm body gloves etc....

------------------
Evil

For starters: get some 3/16" x 3/8" steel round head. You might also get some 1/8" x 3/8" steel round head for small gauntlet parts, etc.
This is just for starters, and should be good for everything you encounter from head to toe on a BASIC level.
All you have to do if they are too long is clip off after placing the rivet in the hole.
But 3/8" length will give you leadway on this.


------------------
FIRESIDE ARMOURY
www.firesidearmoury.com

Hi evil

3/16 by 1/2 inch brass rivets are easier to work with than steel and good for all around projects except for helms.

I prefer 3/16 times 3/8 inch stainless from rleary.com. if you want a one size fits all get the 1/2 inch rivets and cut them down.

for sca fighting... brass rivets should not be used for helms without welded seams.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Crows Anvil:
<B>Kalle,

I directly buy in Frankfurt/Main at Messinger (www.messinger-schrauben.de) .

A week ago I ordered a package of about 1000 steel rivets at Würth (www.wuerth.de) . I will tell you how much the price was as soon as I get the packet. I had a visit of a sales rep. from wuerth and we had a good deal will 25% discout.

Chriz

[This message has been edited by Crows Anvil (edited 01-03-2003).]</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Hallo Chriz

That would be great. Thanks

Kalle

I just cut 10d nails to length. For smaller rivets, I use smaller nails. Use a bolt cutter, and make sure that you cut it so that one thickness of the nail protrudes for peening. (As for the rest of the nail, I sometimes rehead them in the forge and use them on other projects.)

It's cheap, it's dirty, and it works. For a simple helm, see my "Atli and Tadgh" artical in the Anvilfire "Armoury" section at the link below.

(Hmmmm. Nails are so common, I wonder if they actually work out cheaper than most rivets?)

------------------
Full time civil servant, part time blacksmith, and seasonal Viking ship captain.

Visit your National Parks: www.nps.gov

Go viking: www.wam.umd.edu/~eowyn/Longship/

Hit hot iron: www.anvilfire.com

Markland Medieval Mercenary Militia: http://www.markland.org

But brass isnt supposed to be fragile!?

------------------
Evil

The way it was put to me was to use brass headed rivets and they may break after a while of using the piece but steel headed rivets will be tougher and enlarge the holes in your armor the more they are used. Would you rather replace a brass rivet now and then or replace the armor because the holes have gotten too big.

------------------
Sir Alrek Kanin
or just plain 'ol Rabbit

For 14ga. helms I like the 1/4" long 3/16" shank dia. 3/8" head domed rivets.
I do not have to cut them off. But I need the 3/8" long for triple thickness.

I guess it is all a matter of prefaces.

Happy rivet pounding,

Hal