Subject pretty much says it. Just wondering if you can get more dishing out of 10/12 oz or a full-out sole bend. For more complex shapes...no lasts, just dishing.
Thanks,
Christopher
Which is Easier to Dish; Lighter or Heavier Leathers?
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RenJunkie
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Which is Easier to Dish; Lighter or Heavier Leathers?
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"Born to lose. Live to win."
Historical Interpreter- Jamestown Settlement Museum
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"Born to lose. Live to win."
Historical Interpreter- Jamestown Settlement Museum
Master's Candidate, East Carolina University
Graduate of The College of William & Mary in Virginia
- Uilleag
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Depends on the complexity of the shape vs. the end rigidity deisred, etc. The thinner the leather the easier it is to work, but I prefer 14 - 16 oz armour bends for elbows, knees, necks and hands.....it just gives a better over-all protection.
Of course, you can over-come the difficulty in the dishing by allowing the thicker leather to soak longer...I usually soak My armour bends over night, then allow them to case for a day, then work them on the day after....yes, it is a much longer process, but the shaping is much more fluid, the hardening process is much more even, and the glueing process and dyeing process really look better that way, in my not so humble opinion.
Of course, you can over-come the difficulty in the dishing by allowing the thicker leather to soak longer...I usually soak My armour bends over night, then allow them to case for a day, then work them on the day after....yes, it is a much longer process, but the shaping is much more fluid, the hardening process is much more even, and the glueing process and dyeing process really look better that way, in my not so humble opinion.
Uilleag
In my limited experience, I find that the thicker leather dishes and holds it's shape better. 1/4" is good, but 3/8" is even better if you can find it. AND, if you CAN find it, please let me know! The first side I ever bought had sections that were about that thick, but I haven't been able to find one since.
Cat
Cat
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The complexity of the shape you can form is limited by the thickness of your material. You can't curl something a quarter inch thick into an eighth inch roll.
I know that's kind of obvious, but sometimes it helps to state the obvious
In terms of what kind of forming you can do by hammering - there's a point where the leather is too thin to get any benefit from hammering it, imo. I think that point is about 9 oz. Thinner and you can do all the shaping you might want without hammering and if you do hammer it, you're likely to pound through it if you are not careful.
Gavin
I know that's kind of obvious, but sometimes it helps to state the obvious
In terms of what kind of forming you can do by hammering - there's a point where the leather is too thin to get any benefit from hammering it, imo. I think that point is about 9 oz. Thinner and you can do all the shaping you might want without hammering and if you do hammer it, you're likely to pound through it if you are not careful.
Gavin
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Armoured Air Bear
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I have'nt done too much shaping -yet- but what I have done I prefer thicker leathers. anywheres from 9/10 ox to the thich armour grade stuff. overall though when making armour my leather of choice is by far 9/10 oz. it seems to tool better (mabey the thicker stuff was just a bad side
) and it just works easier.
so if I were to be hardening leather I'd probably use the 9/10 oz.
Just my $0.02,
Aaron
so if I were to be hardening leather I'd probably use the 9/10 oz.
Just my $0.02,
Aaron
