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menpo nose
Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 10:59 pm
by floivanus
hello all, took a long hiatus from pounding anything but I decided to try some japanese armour, started a menpo yesterday.
The thing is I've been able to do the majority of the work, I have the body nearly knocked out (rough no planishing) and can't seem to get the nose to work quite right.
I've worked from eff's pattern on the first two and the third that I just hammered out is just a solid piece, dished shallow and then raised a little. Anyone on here have any tips?
thanks for any help
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 1:18 am
by AriAnson
I just wanted to say that the thread title made me think you were misspelling menopause, or something,
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 7:48 am
by Yojimbo
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 8:26 am
by Halberds
No skin off my nose
Tip:
Take some tin-foil and shape it over your nose, now with a sharpie draw out the outline. Cut with the scissors the drawn line.
Snip the two places under the nostrils so it will flatten out.
This will give you a nice flat pattern.
Hot dishing helps to start the shape.
Then raise over a RR stake and planish on a small ball-bearing stake.
I like to weld back the snip lines after it closes up.
Grind and sand it down then weld it to your helm face.
Hope that is right on the nose.
Hal
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 5:40 pm
by floivanus
approx. what size are you talking about when you say small? and which railroad spike stake? the "spoon stake"
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 9:00 pm
by Halberds
I welded a 3/8" ball bearing to a rod and clamped it in my vice.
The spike end of the RR stake was rounded off to match the inside curve of the nose and clamped in the vice also. This became the raising stake.
I used a block of lead as the dishing form. I changed the tools shape as needed as the nose progressed.
Funny thing, I had that left over nose on auction for $1.00 and no one thought it was worth it. Perhaps they just did not need one or they could build their own easier.
Hal
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 9:38 pm
by floivanus
how did I know I'd get a reply from the "tool building machine"? thanks hal.
I was using a t-steak of about 3/4" dia for the bridge of the nose, and a simillar sized ball, I'll drop down to a 3/8 and see how that works, I wasn't getting enough depth I believe so that might help.
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 10:19 pm
by Halberds
The small propane hardware store torch works great at heating it red hot, because the area is so small.
Just hold it with the slim vice grips and raise away.
Also the flap wheel on the bench grinder works great to smooth it right out.
Now we gotta see pics
Hal