The Armour Archive

Newbie question here.

For armor construction and modification, I don't know which would be best to invest in for punching holes. A powerful drill that can go through anything from 18 gauge to 14 gauge steel, or a steel punch.

Any recommendations on quality but affordable tools is appreciated.

Charles,

Spend what you can on a punch, and spend what's left on a drill.

Buy the Roper Whitney, and not the Taiwanese import punch. It will last many times longer.

Nine out of ten holes I make are with a punch. It's accurate, quiet, and easy. It doesn't make a burr around the hole or create sharp turnings. Nor will it grab a lame from your hands and try to injure you with it like a drill will.

I view drills as a necessary evil which must be used with caution.

Mac

Mac wrote:Charles,

Spend what you can on a punch, and spend what's left on a drill.

Buy the Roper Whitney, and not the Taiwanese import punch. It will last many times longer.

Nine out of ten holes I make are with a punch. It's accurate, quiet, and easy. It doesn't make a burr around the hole or create sharp turnings. Nor will it grab a lame from your hands and try to injure you with it like a drill will.

I view drills as a necessary evil which must be used with caution.

Mac

Much appreciated Mac.

The Taiwanese imports make decent leather punches. Pretty much useless for anything above about 17ga.

I have three punches.

I bought a roper-whitney #8 a few years ago and it's proving to be one of the best investments in the shop. Around $100 used at the time, but you won't do that well on ebay. Punches are I think $18 a set still from RW site.
Not only will it punch right through 12 gauge with no problem, it's much easier to deal with multiple holes in 16 if you've got 5 tons instead of 1.2.
The 1/2" punch also does inside curves when I'm cutting - like where a cop meets a fan.
Lastly, all scrap steel gets the 3/8" or 1/2" punch passed over it. I collect the slugs and turn them into washers by re-punching the center.

The other two punches are #5jrs. Two is the minimum I think, though I'd like more - two for a current project and one floater for odd jobs. For instance, if you're articulating a piece with 3/16" rivets, you should be punching the hole for the head end at 7/32" and the post end hole at 3/16", so that it articulates freely. That's easier if you have two punches ready to go. I want the third one now in case I switch gears and start working on something that requires 1/8" holes, so I don't have to disassemble my existing work station.

What Mac says about punches is all true.

That being said... if you learn how to drill, you don't need an expensive or particularly powerful one.

Do spend a bit more on your drill bits. I like the cobalt ones.

What I've done with both drill bits, and a few other kits like tap and die... is to pick up the harbor freight cheapies. Realisticaly, the boxes aren't bad, and that's what I'm keeping. As you use the cheap shit, (and break it) you figure out what sizes you NEED, and replace them one at a time with more expensive high quality stuff. You still have the odd ball sizes if something comes up.

For drill bits, I would go ahead and just pick up 1/4", 3/16" and 1/8" right away.

For the punches it's really not worth starting with the cheapies. I will say however that JC whitney sells a 5jr knock off that is way better than the harbor freight model (which wouldn't take much at all). If you are very carefull with it, it will do 16g steel somewhat regularly, and it will whine and protest, and fall apart, but you might get 5-10 holes in 14g.