The Armour Archive

I was looking at the Wisby book, and decided I’d like to build an approximation based the Kunarch finds, because I like the plate layout (horizontal plates on the abdomen, vertical plates on the chest). Reading the section on it, I believe that a side closing backing along the line of the Thordeman’s Type 1, would be most appropriate to mount Kunarch style plates. Anyone out there have experience with this? How much overlap is appropriate? The cut out for the shoulder also concerns me. Any hints? I’m working the pattern out on fabric before I cut my leather.

Tournaments are so much easier to design and build than armour.

Asbjorn

In Modo Antiquo
www.historiccombat.org

Asbjorn:

I suggest you contact Mad Matt on this--he seems the local expert on the Kusnach harness.

To tell you the truth I've really only ever seen some line drawings of it. I don't have and can't afford the wisby book. Would you possibly mind scanning the section on the CoP for me?

Anyway there's some pics of a finished one on my site.

Kits are in progress and should be ready soon but I'm not sure when.

These things bend in more ways then your body does.

I've got some shell patterning instructions for the kits somewhere. Pester me with e-mails untill I e-mail them to you.

I make the horizontal plates about 2.5" wide (or tall whatever you want to call it) and overlap somewhere around 1/2-1/4" Depends on the length of the torso of the person.

I do a side opening. Both sides. They don't even need to be strapped. Just put a belt on overtop at the waist or a single belt attached to the CoP so it stays where it belongs works fine too. Buckle goes at the front because it's easier to do up.

If you're using leather remember you don't want something too heavy and you want a medium temper. The brown full grain sides at betruns are perfect for CoP.

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The budding mid 14th century German Transitional guy.
Mad Matt's Armory

Oh the lung shaped and rectangular plates at the top. Remember that the ones on the front need to be a fair bit narrower and shorter then the ones on the back.

Use cardboard or something as a mock-up and try it on if you doubt your ability to get the pattern right the first time around.

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The budding mid 14th century German Transitional guy.
Mad Matt's Armory

Thanks for the reply and the hints.

The plates aren't my biggest concern, getting the cuts correct on the relatively more expensive shell is. Because of the difference in the behavior of the materials I’m wondering how accurate my cloth pattern is going to be for leather shell.

Erik

Go to a fabric store and buy the cheapest canvas or denim you can get. You will probably be able to find some for under 5 bucks a yard, 60" wide. If it is this wide, get 2 yards so you have plenty.

Do a mock-up of the backing. Do not rivet the plates on. Use duct tape on the top edge (the riveted edge) of each plate. Try it on. Like it? Then pull off the plates and use the cover as a pattern for your final version. Don't like it? Modify it until it works right, then make the final version.

I use old sheets for garb mock-ups. The reason for suggesting the heavier material is that sheets would drape all wrong and not give a realistic idea of how well this will work in practice.

-Patrick