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Issue stitching a leather crest box....(Now with pics)
Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 4:17 pm
by Glaukos the Athenian
Greetings,
I am in the process of making a leather box for a Corinthian helmet's crest.
Most experienced makers make a box with a curved bottom section that attaches to the helmet with Chicago screws. I am almost there, even managed to curve the bottom side to it fits the curves of the helmet perfectly. But I need to join this to the top section of the box
I have built four sides of the box and ahe fact that all is curved is not as much of a problem as moving about with the needle. There is simply no room to get my fingers inside so I can stitch properly, even with the holes pre-drilled, etc. I want to stitch because that will make the box more resistant to getting beat up in fight than glue or something of the sort (like screwing the bottom section to the wooden spacers of the crest iself)
How do you stitch the bottom of a narrow skinny leather box from the inside...?
Thanks!
Rowan
Tandy
Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 4:21 pm
by waveicle
Rowan,
I have a book from Tandy leather that shows how to stitch boxes. IF I can find it this weekend I'll reply.
Waveicle/Diedrich
Re: Tandy
Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 4:35 pm
by Glaukos the Athenian
waveicle wrote:Rowan,
I have a book from Tandy leather that shows how to stitch boxes. IF I can find it this weekend I'll reply.
Waveicle/Diedrich
Thanks!
Here are pics of what I meant.
Any suggestions would be very welcome. (including how it is best to attach the wood/fiber crest box to the leather box.
Thanks again!
Rowan
Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 6:07 pm
by redrook
I have never made a crest so I cannot speak of that specifically. I made some leather boxes some time ago that were too small to fit my hands into. For those I used long mechanics needlenose pliers, and I cut the length of my needles down to about 1 inch. This allowed them to go through both pieces of leather,yet still be short enough to turn around inside of the box.It was tedious but it worked for a saddle stitch.
Hope this helps.
Richard
Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 10:07 am
by Johann Lederer
Decent technique book here:
http://tinyurl.com/9u7zc4
Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 6:16 pm
by Glaukos the Athenian
After like 3 more tries, I remembered my experience with the shoe manufacturing industry and tried thermoplastic. It worked like a charm.
I need to sand the fiber of the hair box a bit, because the internal dimensions changed a bit but at least it will keep it together. Once it is all glued in place THEN I'll drill at an angle through the fiberboard and leather for a bond that will survive getting hit in the field.
Pictures when I can borrow the camera from my wife...(her holiday gift!)
Rowan
Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 9:59 am
by Uilleag
I was to suggest a sail needle. It is basically a needle that looks like a crescent. They come in all different sizes, about a one inch length would have been perfect for that project.
Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 10:39 am
by Glaukos the Athenian
Uilleag wrote:I was to suggest a sail needle. It is basically a needle that looks like a crescent. They come in all different sizes, about a one inch length would have been perfect for that project.
I tried, I have a couple. The problem was that the first "base" I made was wider than the box, to increase stability. In fact, once it is all inside and glued, I will drill holes at an angle downwards from the sides and loop stitch the base, sides and fiber box together with black artificial sinew, using a crescent needle.
Thanks!
Rowan
Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 1:42 pm
by Pietro da San Tebaldo
One suggestion would be to sew it very loosely - the pieces not joining at all. Leave as much gap as you need to maneuver fingers around it. Then, when the stitching is in place, use needlenose pliers to draw the stitches tight and the parts together. You end up with miles of spare thread, but it does work.