Arming Cote based on the Charles de Blois Pourpoint

Charlotte J · Post by **Charlotte J** » Thu Mar 25, 2010 7:41 pm

Hello!

I've not been posting too much lately, mostly because I've been sewing like a madwoman. I finished an arming cote for Jeff, just in time for MTA last weekend. It still has a lot of work to be completely finished, but it was wearable, and worked fine for the weekend.

I've documented the entire process in [url=http://chargirlgenius.livejournal.com/tag/arming%20cote] a series of livejournal posts.
[/url]

There are lots and lots of pictures at my photo gallery.

The doublet is hand-sewn, all seams. I patterned it myself, using draping. This is the second one that I've done, and I made a lot of changes from last time. I did buy Tasha's pattern for some construction tips, and got a few tips out of there (when to do quilting, how to make the points, stuff like that). For the most part, though, I used my experience to get me to this point. I know that Tasha's pattern is sold out, but if you ever can get your hands on it, I recommend it entirely.

In any case, I documented what I did, since it might help others working on the same project. And if you *can't* get her pattern, maybe this'll help.

Unfortunately, I didn't get any pics during the weekend with the armour on! But here is the final result:

Klaus the Red · Post by **Klaus the Red** » Thu Mar 25, 2010 8:34 pm

Not too shabby, sister. I'll try to sit down and read your LJ saga this weekend when I find my spare brain. What do you find are the advantages of adding those extra layers of linen sandwiching your batting? I generally just do shell, batting, and liner.

Klaus

Charlotte J · Post by **Charlotte J** » Thu Mar 25, 2010 8:42 pm

Klaus the Red wrote:Not too shabby, sister. I'll try to sit down and read your LJ saga this weekend when I find my spare brain. What do you find are the advantages of adding those extra layers of linen sandwiching your batting? I generally just do shell, batting, and liner.

Klaus

It's kind of an earlier version of the 15th c. jacks that had many more layers of linen. Also, it's not for SCA use, but for Living History. I don't know that it would make any difference in SCA combat.

Jeff can explain better, but as he was interpreting this weekend, the multiple layers of linen act as a secondary armour, if something were to get through the mail, or though a gap.

Klaus the Red · Post by **Klaus the Red** » Thu Mar 25, 2010 11:14 pm

That makes sense. When and if the hemp shell starts wearing through at the abrasion points, I expect the additional layers will also keep the batting from "leaking."

Charlotte J · Post by **Charlotte J** » Fri Mar 26, 2010 6:14 am

Klaus the Red wrote:That makes sense. When and if the hemp shell starts wearing through at the abrasion points, I expect the additional layers will also keep the batting from "leaking."

Yep. I also used historically achievable colors for my inner layers, at least the ones toward the outer shell, in case of a tear. Undyed would probably be better, but I didn't have enough of that around.

That's the thing with this garment. The first thing he did was try on his mail shirt, which made it dirty right away. It's going to get filthy, and abrade. And it's going to get little burn holes in it because he's a gunner.

And it's all hand sewn and took probably 200 hours... *sigh*

(Actually, at that point it'll look awesome, and I'm looking forward to it, but it's funny to think about.)

James B. · Post by **James B.** » Fri Mar 26, 2010 7:48 am

Sadly the pictures don't do justice to the actual garment; Jeff looked ultra spiff in it at MTA.

Tailoress · Post by **Tailoress** » Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:39 am

Great work, Charlotte! Thanks for sharing your process in such detail.

Charlotte J · Post by **Charlotte J** » Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:53 am

James B. wrote:Sadly the pictures don't do justice to the actual garment; Jeff looked ultra spiff in it at MTA.

Thanks! Yeah, I took NO pics at MTA and Jeff avoided being in any that I've seen. These were taken at 11;30 pm while up late finishing it! I should get him into the backyard to pose.

Charlotte J · Post by **Charlotte J** » Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:55 am

Tasha K wrote:Great work, Charlotte! Thanks for sharing your process in such detail.

.

Heh. My motivations were mostly selfish - I couldn't remember what i did and the mistakes I made last time!

Tailoress · Post by **Tailoress** » Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:56 am

Charlotte J wrote:
Tasha K wrote:Great work, Charlotte! Thanks for sharing your process in such detail.
.

Heh. My motivations were mostly selfish - I couldn't remember what i did and the mistakes I made last time!

Tell me about it... I reinvent the wheel almost every time I sew -- not out of some driven need to try different methods -- but out of disorganization and forgetfulness! :lol:

James B. · Post by **James B.** » Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:48 am

Charlotte J wrote:
Tasha K wrote:Great work, Charlotte! Thanks for sharing your process in such detail.
.

Heh. My motivations were mostly selfish - I couldn't remember what i did and the mistakes I made last time!

I should start taking notes more often myself; I have been doing that with my leather items (shoes and pouches) as I am writing some step by step guides to construction to avoid some common mistakes I see that I have made myself. A kind of trick and tips that have worked for me in the past.