German 'Ministeriale' Soft Kit c. 1200!

[Gerhard von Liebau]

Hey folks!

I've got a new soft kit coming along, and was able to get my lovely mother to snap some pictures of me frolicking around the back yard in it this morning. Figured I'd drop in and share!

The Idea- The impression is supposed to be c. 1200, southeastern German. I'm trying to represent a man from the rank 'n file of the Ministeriales, a rather interesting military power behind the German principalities and kingdoms of the Feudal era. These men would often serve as ranking soldiers of distinction, but by birth they were rarely nobility. They began to come into their own by the late 12th and early 13th centuries when a number of individual or cooperative milites amassed enough land through their services to become respectable and powerful members of society. I'm personally trying to portray a typical, war-mongering young fellow with little interest in politics or prestige beyond the battlefield or tournament.

The Kit- My gown is of wool, made by Historic Enterprises. I purchased the size "large" for much bigger men than myself because when looking at documents the garb of the era is typically very loose fitting. I do not have the actual belt prepared to tie it off appropriately at my waist, and just used the baldric to mimic the effect for the posing. The undershirt is also by Historic Enterprises, and is the normal St. Louis cut. I have a pair of linen hose to wear beneath this and am actually wearing cotton tights because I'm debating the size of appropriate chausses to get from HE. I made the small, draw-string pouch (which is very appropriate for the era) and also made the wool felt Phyrgian cap that I'm wearing. The shoes are from Revival Enterprises and are lovely, strapped versions of their typical ankle-high turn shoes. My sword is an Albion Squire 13th Century Knightly Sword and I made the scabbard myself.

Things that are missing or will be changed shortly - I need an appropriate belt for tying off the gown. I've been debating what this should look like and could use advice. I need to get appropriate linen chausses. I need to put a chape on my scabbard. Annnnd... I need to shave. Hope you like it otherwise!

Cheers!

-Gregory


The Big Picture

[Oswyn_de_Wulferton]

Overall, overtunic/gown should be a bit more fitted, possibly even laced at the side like a bliaunt (depending on class). Trim was pretty much evident at all levels on this stuff, especially at wrist and hem, and occasionally biceps. There is almost no pictoral evidence of pouches, even though there is quite a few finds, leading people to believe they were tied to the braes strings. Easier to keep safe as well. Other than that, I would break up the monotony a bit. Red tunic, red scabbard, red pouch, brown shoes?

[Gerhard von Liebau]

Hey Oswyn,

Thanks for the feedback! I actually plan on working around this kit for the next couple of years, so I'll be building up a wardrobe. These items were all the first bits that I purchased. As mentioned, I don't have my chausses yet but I'll be getting at least one red and one white pair to start off with. I'm getting a green gown next.

As for the gown's sizing, what makes you inclined to believe that it would be more fitted around the torso? I don't have a lot of illustrations from the era handy, but a lot of what I see in slightly later manuscripts such as the Manesse Codex show the gowns bunched up at the waist with a belt, lots of extra space in the garments are typically apparent. Images from the era that I can find flipping through a couple of armor books include the Martyrdom of Thomas of Becket on some Latin Psalter, definitely showing Becket's gown tucked into his belt with lots of extra material exposed. Because I don't have a belt yet, I couldn't get this affect when I had the photographs taken earlier, but I think it should look spot on after I remedy that. The arms are going to have to stay a little less fitted, because when I pull my undershirt into them they actually feel rather bothersome to get in and out of as it is. I see what you mean in the art by having them more formed, though.

Interesting information on the drawstring pouches. I threw this one together with soft leather that came red, otherwise I would have had it brown or even blue, probably... Well, next time!

Cheers!

-Gregory

[Oswyn_de_Wulferton]

What I am going off of is illluminations from the later 12th century. Given that you said you were not on the cutting edge of fashion, I was more inclined to think of a bliaunt style of cut, rather than the overtunic design. The germans wore them baggier than other parts of the continent, but still a bit more fitted than what you have there. Lots of what I am going off of is timeframe (extremely early 13th), and location.

The arms are something you get used to after a while. Having a second person help rotate them forward helps a lot. My wife made my stuff, and she is always tugging at the bicep material to get it hanging right again once I put it on.

[Gerhard von Liebau]

Fair enough! As I mentioned, this stuff was bought off the shelf, so I'm probably not going to worry about it and since I was seemingly thinking backwards, I'll probably just buy a smaller size next to make up for these issues.

Do you think you could post a couple of pictures of you in your garb? I'd love to see it! Also, any of these late 12th century images you could throw out there that show the garb would be great, too. I'm going to start doing searches for the specific plates from titles like the Eniede and such to see if I can dig some of it up myself.

I'd also be interested to know what kind of trim designs and brooches would be seen during the era. Maybe if you could scroll around Raymond's Quite Press for me and find a brooch or cloak clasp that might work, that'd be cool... I'm actually not bothered using Norman style designs for the details because I think I'm going to work a Crusading history into my persona, so some traveling will be in order and I like mixing things up. I also like fancy!

Thanks again for your time, sir!

-Gregory