coopering, kinda..

[Maeryk]

anyone ever made a hollow, round column out of individual flat boards?

I want to try to make a pavise. And not one that looks like a barn door.. the one with the rounded center channel that runs top to bottom.

I know (in theory) how to make a round topped trunk.. but have never attempted anything like a tight curve such as a tube like that would have.

I'm wondering about just doing some glue-ups of flat stock, but thick, with "breakable" glue joints at the halfway point around, throwing it on the lathe, turning the outside "round" then splitting it along the breakable joints to get two halves.

Any better suggestions? (And no, "hollow a small log" is not a better suggestion, though it is probably very correct one.)

[Richard Blackmoore]

anyone ever made a hollow, round column out of individual flat boards?

I want to try to make a pavise. And not one that looks like a barn door.. the one with the rounded center channel that runs top to bottom.

I know (in theory) how to make a round topped trunk.. but have never attempted anything like a tight curve such as a tube like that would have.

I'm wondering about just doing some glue-ups of flat stock, but thick, with "breakable" glue joints at the halfway point around, throwing it on the lathe, turning the outside "round" then splitting it along the breakable joints to get two halves.

Any better suggestions? (And no, "hollow a small log" is not a better suggestion, though it is probably very correct one.)

I was thinking for the 1480's harness I wanted to put together for SCA, if they make aircraft aluminum pipe, cut a vertical section out of the pipe and weld it to a left and right flat side, cover with fabric and gesso. Not as nice as the wood, but I could not figure out a way to use wood for that that would not get destroyed fast.

The alternative was to give up on the round channel and go for a boxed channel pavise. You could do that in wood by putting a plank over a regular shield, it would not be totally right but would hold up. Or welded aluminum strips.

If this is for a more historical shield? Sorry, ignore me.

[Maeryk]

If this is for a more historical shield? Sorry, ignore me.

Actually, it's for a gunners pavise.

But you did have some good ideas!

If I was making one to take shots, I'd definately think about doing it your way.. (or just make a flat shield and use some for of heavy rubber tube for the veritical decoration.. it wouldn't suffer as much as an aluminum tube would).

The "box" pavice was actually used, or so I have read, but I have yet to find a PICTURE of one to go off of.

[Kel Rekuta]

If this is for a more historical shield? Sorry, ignore me.

Actually, it's for a gunners pavise.

But you did have some good ideas!

If I was making one to take shots, I'd definately think about doing it your way.. (or just make a flat shield and use some for of heavy rubber tube for the veritical decoration.. it wouldn't suffer as much as an aluminum tube would).

The "box" pavice was actually used, or so I have read, but I have yet to find a PICTURE of one to go off of.

I'll bet this would do the trick.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... 6168,46174

I've been lusting after this gadget since I first saw it. I can see homemade cherry columns in my rec room to match the homemade trim. Too many projects too little time.....

[Maeryk]

yeah.. MLCS has em too, in the catalog I got today.

*drewl*

(and I already have a shaper table)

[earnest carruthers]

Maeryk, are you talking about the whole pavise being curved, ie basically a shield? There is a Burgundian one made that way in the Army Museum at Delft, it is as you say coopered, kind of, It looks that the individual pieces are about 2 inches wide, butted together and not cut parallel, seems like a real drag. see pic

If however you wanted to make a pavise that was not curved the process is very simple, you need three planks, approx an inch thick, profiles cut to desired shapes. The wings are mirrors of each other and the centre is cut according to design eg narrow at top flared at bottom, this is nailed, pegged and glued (although I have found gluing not necessary) to the wings. See top pic of a Bohemian style pavise, taller than the Burgundian.

Animal glue (hot) brushed on all over the wood to seal it, then well washed preferably old canvas is glued, again with animal size and laid over the whole thing, pays to have an extra layer of thinner cloth over the joins. When dry apply the gesso, quit thin, enough to obscure the weave on the front, less on the inside face, scrape where needed to tidy up, paint.

If you are talking just about a rounded central channel, then the process is as above but the central part has to be cut and hollowed, then attached.

Teh one we made like that was basically a hand job, if you excuse the expression, th egutter was hollowed out roughly (it doesn't want to be dead smooth as a rough texture helps key the cloth a bit).

As for destruction, the cloth cover is really what does the work, it holds it in place and prevents splitting as it interrupts the cut.

One I made many years ago was arrow proof, I mean proper war bow arrow proof, mind you would hope that a board an inch thick would be.

Downside is that the standing pavises weigh a fair bit and would be more used as a wall rather than shield, the smaller pavises can be and were used as such though.

By all means drop me a line if you want any more specific info.

regards

[Thomas H]

I will put a couple of pics up tonight of one i've been wokring on to show the 3 plank method. So easy even i can do it. just make sure the boards are wide enough or it looks a little spazzy.


p.s Matthijs, are you there? how goes the translation of the Delft pavise info?